Rigging Tube Change

[Fishtales]

Hi,

My rigging tubes are cracking near the F250 end. I think during maintenance they were raised turned to port and were stressed. They were cut back and reattached, but are popping out of clamp at the engine end.

I'd like to change out the end that runs from the primer bulb to the engine. There are fuel and control lines that need to come off at the engine end, if I use the one piece stock rigging tube that Grady uses. Has anyone changed these out? Is there a two piece alternative or do I need to take it all apart to replace.

Thanks,
dr

 

[Enough Already]

I am right in the middle of that project now - port motor done and stbd hopefully tomorrow. I did not find any two piece alternative and did not want to use the lighter-weight split tubing. I purchased some really heavy duty black tubing and other rigging parts at BOW which should last a lifetime. The job is not hard but on my 225 OX66, I had to disconnect the two shifter/throttle cables, starter wire, another wire to the control box, oil tube, fuel hose, speed sensor tube, plus three other wire bundles to the motor. One wire was butt connected and I had to cut it. Not sure how your motor grommet is set up, but it is a real pain to get everything back in place. Use lots of silicone lubricant spray so that you can re-work everything back in to place and bolt down the retainer. Hopefully you have twins so you have a reference. If not, take photos. The most important thing is to get the shift/throttle cables back in the right spot in the grommet, so you have a relatively straight alignment to their connection points. In addition, make sure the fuel line does not get compressed when you tighten everything up. Finally, make sure to completely disconnect your battery - Perko switch does not cut power to all wires (some are direct, bypassing the switch).