Roller or Bunk Trailer?

[PTM]

Hi There,
I’m new to the Forum.
I’m thinking about a new trailer for my Grady a 1993 25’ sailfish. I have an old roller trailer in bad shape and probably under sized. I’m looking for some advise on -roller or bunk? aluminum or galvanized? what size? (not sure how much my boat weighs), dual axle or triaxle?
I would be towing from RI to CT. A couple hours on Rt 95.
Any help will be appreciate.

Thanks,
Phil

 

[HTHM]

My inclination would be bunks, more even weight distribution, and not as much chance of accidental offload on a steep ramp.

 

[DennisG01]

Rollers vs bunks is mostly a personal preference as both can work well for your boat. Much of it depends on what you are used to and/or how you use the boat. You'll need to decide based on what works best for you - here are some items to consider:

-- Al vs GV: Aluminum looks nicer and is lighter. Not always, but GV is typically a little less expensive.
-- Dual vs triple: You don't "need" a triple. It all comes down to the manufacturer and the carrying capacity. Personally, I would stay away from triple because of the extra maintenance of another set of brakes/bearing/suspension/tires.
-- Speaking of brakes... highly conside Electric Over Hydraulic. Braking performance is GREATLY improved with EOH. Your truck will need a controller installed.
-- Get brakes on all axles.
-- Brands: Stay away from cheapies like Venture. Some will say they have had good luck - and I hope they continue to. But I work in the industry and have seen a VERY disproportionate rate of quality (some quite major) issues with them.
-- Rollers help when loading/unloading if you can't dunk the trailer enough.
-- Bunks tend to make loading easier and they center the boat better.
-- If you get bunks, I would highly recommend adding the plastic bunk slick option.

For "carrying capacity" - you just have to do some simple math. I'm not doing it for you! Use your manual or look on Grady's website (and possibily Yamaha) to add up:
-- Dry weight of boat
-- Options over and above standard
-- Engine (s)
-- Full fuel
-- Full water
-- Batteries
-- Gear/ice
-- Add 10% for good measure

With the questions you're asking, I'll assume you'll be paying someone to set up the trailer (which is fine, of course). Unless you buy a completely custom trailer, they need to be adjusted to properly fit your hull. Buy the trailer from a place that can also do the fitting. Roughly speaking, it's about 2 hours of labor for someone with experience and a lift.

 

[blindmullet]

All depends on your ramp and tides. If you see a roller trailer in Florida they are on vacation

 

[ilmmct]

Can’t add much to the detailed and thorough reply that DennisG01 has provided.

I recently added the Surfix Trailer Glides to the GW OEM trailer. The installation was simple and the benefit these glides provide (to ease launch/retrieval) for shallow water situations, was well worth the investment.

No affiliation ... http://www.surfixinc.com/

 

[wrxhoon]

What Dennis said.
I also use the Surfix trailer slides , they are almost as good as rollers .
From my years of trailering and having both I'll take the bunks every time . They are much better on the road because the boat doesn't sway from left to right and you have less maintenance. I prefer aluminum, especially if use in salt water. Definitely dual axle , torsion axles and EOH brakes , if used in salt Stainless steel Kodiak or Deemax, much more expensive to buy but cheaper in the long run.

 

[PTM]

Thanks so much!
Still taking it all in.
I estimate the weight to be 8200 lbs. plus 10% so I need a 9000 lb +- trailer
Any trailer brands that I should look at?

 

[DennisG01]

There's lot's of good trailer brands out there and there really isn't a "best" trailer. But what might be more important is finding a good, local dealer. Maybe take a look around and see what's available and then post those options?

 

[Andrew93]

Our '99 Sailfish had a bunk trailer. We do our own maintenance and the bunk trailer made painting the bottom a chore. Boat was too heavy to deadman off the trailer onto stands, might have got it off, we were worried about back on. Also before the ramp we use was redone it was difficult to load due to the ramp being short and steep, could never get the bow to the roller and too heavy to winch once out of the water.

 

[Lt.Mike]

Went from a Loadrite roller to a Loadrite elite aluminum I beam bunk trailer. You can’t load or launch in really shallow water but if you can submerge the tires it’s the easiest loading I’ve done in years.
I motor up easy to the front target bunks give it a nudge up and it sticks, clip, crank the last few inches and away I go with the guide poles centering it perfect on the trailer. Launching it I back down and as the stern starts to float I tap the brakes and off it goes. Easy.
with the roller if I dunked the trailer too deep it was a pain to center, too shallow it kicked my ass to crank it up. lost rollers over the years accounted for a nice gouge in the hull. Never did that with the bunk trailer with my prior boat.
Very happy with it.

 

[wrxhoon]

Thanks so much!
Still taking it all in.
I estimate the weight to be 8200 lbs. plus 10% so I need a 9000 lb +- trailer
Any trailer brands that I should look at?

It is not rocket science to build a I beam aluminum trailer as it is all bolt on. If you are in Fla there are plenty small trailer manufacturers there, if you are not in a hurry have one built.
If you go to a small place specify what you want as in what size I beams to use, how many crossmembers, 5000 lb torsion axles ( if you want a 9-10000 lb trailer, what size tyres you want , what brakes you want, what winch you want and even specify the bunks to be aluminum with slides on them . I had mine built in Fla in 2011 for my old 228, this is the second 228 I have on it.

 

[blindmullet]

Thanks so much!
Still taking it all in.
I estimate the weight to be 8200 lbs. plus 10% so I need a 9000 lb +- trailer
Any trailer brands that I should look at?

Get a custom Owens and call it a day. You can't get better customer service. My BIL locked up his calipers on a keys trip (his fault) and we took the brakes off half way down. Called Owens and they sent us replacement parts to our rental free of charge.

I had mine built and I picked up my Grady 8 hours away. Lined up perfect without a single adjustment. They are local for me but people all over the country use them.

 

[SkunkBoat]

I could be wrong and someone here will tell me but...

Big heavy boat- get aluminum bunk trailer

I don't see big aluminum roller trailers. Aluminum can't handle the weight cranking up from the rear roller.

Steep ramps/big tide swings- Galv. roller trailer

 

[leeccoll]

Had a roller trailer until this spring. Didn't fit my hull and caused alot of keel and chime damage.

Now a new galvanized bunk trailer owner=best decision ever

 

[Fowl Hooked]

Don't disagree with anything already mentioned but seconding the suggestion for brakes on all axles and an electric over hydraulic controller that integrates with your tow vehicle. Boat came with a triple axle which I like for hauling down the interstate, less so when I have to make tight turns as it wears on the tires more but as the boat is in a slip and I only trailer a few times a year it's not that bad. I added the EOH controller and that was a major performance improvement, much more comfortable being in traffic with it now. If I ever finish upgrading the boat, I'll probably look at upgrading from springs to torsion axles and adding the stainless brake arrangements but for now it's working. May do a power winch sooner rather than later, dragging that 265 over the last couple feet of bunk is not fun.

 

[PTM]

Hi Everyone, Thanks for your help. I’ll let you know how I make out.