- Joined
- Oct 18, 2013
- Messages
- 879
- Reaction score
- 165
- Points
- 43
- Age
- 63
- Location
- Farmingdale NJ
- Model
- Overnighter
I trailer my boats, always have.
I always flush my engine after every saltwater trip and if I haven’t run it in awhile I like to run it on the muffs at home to be sure it’s good to go.
Problem is on my DT225 besides the ports that get covered by the muffs there’s a rectangular grate on the bottom of the cavitation plate and two more on the sides of the lower unit above it that the owners manual dictates that you cover with duct tape, then and only then can you run the engine on muffs. There’s also a port on the left side of the head to hook a hose to flush the head but you can’t run the engine on it.
Also when running on the muffs I’d often get an intermittent alarm, “check engine” would light briefly and go out. The pee stream would also be hot, almost too hot.
I got tired of doing it that way and picked up a 100 gal rubbermaid stock tank At tractor supply. It was the only one that was deep enough to submerge the lower unit enough to be safe.
Having filled it I left the hose in with a slight flow to counter what the pee stream sprayed out.
It worked great ! Besides being quiet it all ran cooler. The pee stream never heated up in the half hour I ran it. Never had a warning alarm either.
It was easy to set up and take down too.
here’s a few pics...
Mind you it’s a 2 stroke and besides the oil injection it’s also running on premix as per the manual which recommends that after long periods of storage for the first tank.
I haven’t run the boat too much this year and it’s on the last 20 gallons of premix fuel .
I had thought 100 gal.s would a bit much but the length of the tank gives clearance for the engine to trim up and down.
The pee stream is as strong as it is when the boats in the water and it never heated up like it does on the muffs.
Everything behaving itself for once.
100gal Rubbermain
My yard tug. Helps me easily move trailers around in tight spaces.
1953 Farmall Super A
I always flush my engine after every saltwater trip and if I haven’t run it in awhile I like to run it on the muffs at home to be sure it’s good to go.
Problem is on my DT225 besides the ports that get covered by the muffs there’s a rectangular grate on the bottom of the cavitation plate and two more on the sides of the lower unit above it that the owners manual dictates that you cover with duct tape, then and only then can you run the engine on muffs. There’s also a port on the left side of the head to hook a hose to flush the head but you can’t run the engine on it.
Also when running on the muffs I’d often get an intermittent alarm, “check engine” would light briefly and go out. The pee stream would also be hot, almost too hot.
I got tired of doing it that way and picked up a 100 gal rubbermaid stock tank At tractor supply. It was the only one that was deep enough to submerge the lower unit enough to be safe.
Having filled it I left the hose in with a slight flow to counter what the pee stream sprayed out.
It worked great ! Besides being quiet it all ran cooler. The pee stream never heated up in the half hour I ran it. Never had a warning alarm either.
It was easy to set up and take down too.
here’s a few pics...
Mind you it’s a 2 stroke and besides the oil injection it’s also running on premix as per the manual which recommends that after long periods of storage for the first tank.
I haven’t run the boat too much this year and it’s on the last 20 gallons of premix fuel .
I had thought 100 gal.s would a bit much but the length of the tank gives clearance for the engine to trim up and down.
The pee stream is as strong as it is when the boats in the water and it never heated up like it does on the muffs.
Everything behaving itself for once.
100gal Rubbermain
My yard tug. Helps me easily move trailers around in tight spaces.
1953 Farmall Super A
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