Sailfish 282 Deck Drain Hose Cutting Access Hole

[Bretts02]

Hello everyone! It's time for me to swap the hoses on the 4 deck drains at the back of the boat. I've read all the historic posts about the subject and the fact that the starboard side will need some access holes cut, so i'm prepared there.


Any feedback or images on where exactly you cut access, and if you would do it differently a 2nd time would be much appreciated!

Thanks
Brett

 

[DennisG01]

Having not done it on your particular boat, I won't suggest an area. Maybe some pics would help, though. But... some tips...

-- Go larger. Whatever size you think you need... go larger. A hole won't hurt the structural integrity of a panel (within reason).
-- Put it where YOU feel the access will be most beneficial. Use guidance from others - but don't take it as gospel.
-- Consider two access holes, if needed.

 

[Kody]

I recently did my 282, I also replaced the deck drains . Here’s info from Carolyn Ray at Grady. Cut a 6” round access plate behind the starboard side behind the transom door area.
Here’s also some info on the lengths and the sides for the scupper hoses. The vendor info

11-325	SCUPPER HOSE 1 ½”	PORT			(1) 30",(1) 37"
11-325	SCUPPER HOSE 1 ½”	STBD			(1)9" , (1) 20"

Hose info Marine Products (MPI) and their item # is 100-1120. Here’s a link that shows this for you. https://www.greatlakesskipper.com/mpi-boat-water-hose-100-1120-hardwall-1-1-2-inch-black-green-foot

 

[Kody]

Also from Grady.
GW part #11-547 made by MARINE TOWN INC and their item # is 0403436. Here’s a link. https://www.marinetown.com/product-detail/128/ .

 

[Bretts02]

Kody, this is perfect! thank you so much. I've got the hose and the deck drains come tomorrow, same ones you're recommending. Couple questions:

1. If you could do it again would you go with an 8" cutout in that spot instead?
2. How long did the project take you?
3. Any tricks for getting the new deck drains to seat well? assuming you used 4200 to install them?

Thanks again!

 

[Kody]

We used an 8” cutout plate and it was still a bit of a bear reaching everything. One hint, attach the drain hose to the deck drain first, it will allow easier positioning of the drain beneath the deck in order to screw down the drain cover. I think we used 4200, but honestly, I don’t recall and I’m not near the dock box. It took about 2-2 1/2 hours for the starboard side. Port side access is pretty easy after removing the battery switch/ circuit breaker panel.

 

[Chutch]

Having not done it on your particular boat, I won't suggest an area. Maybe some pics would help, though. But... some tips...

-- Go larger. Whatever size you think you need... go larger. A hole won't hurt the structural integrity of a panel (within reason).
-- Put it where YOU feel the access will be most beneficial. Use guidance from others - but don't take it as gospel.
-- Consider two access holes, if needed.

Good advise. You have to get your hand in there to pull off the old hose and push on the new one. I put the 2 hose clamps on slid back a bit then heated the ends and pushed on from the interior to the discharge hull side first then connected to the new deck scupper. Did the outboard one first then the inboard.

 

[SouthFork]

I had mine done a few years ago without cutting a hole. They removed the batteries to get access. When I had my Islander done they, different shop, they did cut a square hole and put on a hatch.