Seacock problem

[jfmagana]

I know that this subject has been posted before, but I just had to vent. I tried to close my livewell seacock on my 2004 228 and something just broke and now the rod isn't attached to anything. I can't see the seacock, so I guess I have to take apart the whole freaken live well to get to the broken part. My guess is that it's the same problem others have reported (rusted ball joint rod end).

Anybody know if I have to take the live well out for sure? Is there an easier way to fix this problem?

 

[okletsfish]

I went through the same thing last year with my boat.What you will have to do is remove the lid from your livewelland all the screws to the livewell tub.then disconect the overflow and fill hoses[starboard side]then lift the tub to a point to where you can disconnect the drain hose on the bottom.Once you remove the livewell than you will see what you are dealing with.There are 2 SS rods one for each seacock.Each one of these have a link that attaches to the lever on the seacock and that at least in my case was the culprit..It is a ball joint like those that are one lift hatches.This is where Grady screwed up they are not SS which caused them to rust and break off.The handle on the valve and the extension rod are both SS but the link between them isn`t.GW wasn`t any help when I brought this to their attension.If yours are like mine you can go to a enternet site and get replacment links that are SS and fix it right.You may have to use a die grinder with a cut off wheel to sepparate them from the lever and in my case I had to cut the rod because I couldn`t separate one. Then you will have to re-tap the rod.The rod is 5/16" in dia.
Someone here posted the link for the parts but I seem to have misplaced the link but I will do a little searching and see if I can find it.When I did mine I replace the livewell and bilge pumps.Another thing with this world economy and if you have to cut your rods don`t tap them until you get the new links and verify what type of threads you have.

 

[ocnslr]

Contact GW customer service and ask them to send you a pair of the new design replacement rods. Bottom end completely redesigned.

Just express that the failure was definitely premature and that preventive maintenance (i.e. spraying with an anti-corrosive) was not possible due to poor accessibility.

That is what I did, just a couple of months ago.

Brian

 

[choogenboom]

Agree - Grady dropped the ball joint on this one See my post on the fix.

http://www.greatgrady.com/forum/viewtop ... highlight=

Chris

 

[jfmagana]

Thanks for the info./advice gentlemen. While I could just buy the parts from McMasters, I'm going to first bring it to Grady's attention and see if they do the right thing (to me, that would be to ship me the parts for free and throw-in a new GW hat for my trouble). I'll post Grady's response as soon as I hear from them. Thank again boys.

 

[VinMan]

Does anyone know what year Grady started using stainless? I have an 06 228 and just had the live well out to install a transducer. I wish i would have read this post first. The boat is all back together now and I didn't really look hard at the ballcock connections...

 

[okletsfish]

I don`t think the link above is the one I used but I`m saving it.Also when I ordered my part I also ordered a new SS lid lift for the live well,because the OEM one was rusted and just about shot.

 

[PA228G]

Can't recall who first posted this link but when I had my livewell out I ordered one to replace the rusted OEM end and it worked out fine.

http://www.midwestcontrol.com/buy.php?item=162

 

[jfmagana]

Happy ending to my story...

So, I just got off the phone with Jeff at Grady and he is sending me two new SS parts to replace my rusted, broken parts…free of charge. Now that's what I call great customer service. Even though my boat is 4 1/2 years old, he recognized the problem right away and just wanted to confirm my address to ship them to me. While it's going to be a lot of work to replace them, I'm going to take advantage of having the live-well out to clean the bilge, check the float switch, check the bilge pump, inspect wiring and hoses, etc. (i.e., stuff that I should do anyway to ensure the safety of the boat).

Sometimes people say that Grady's are overpriced, but it's customer service like this that make me feel like I'm getting my money's worth.

 

[ocnslr]

Good to hear.

That's why I suggested you call them. Jeff is the person who sent me the two completely new rod assemblies.

Brian

 

[jfmagana]

Good to hear.

That's why I suggested you call them. Jeff is the person who sent me the two completely new rod assemblies.

Brian

Yes, Thanks very much for the suggestion Brian.

 

[okletsfish]

I got nothing ,but then again I didn`t talk to Jeff and my boat was 6 years old but had less than 400 hours on it.Grady White was certainly aware of the problem.

 

[VinMan]

Does anyone know what year they started using SS one in the Seafarer?

 

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

I had a 2006 Bimini and they were SS, so i would assume 2006 or 2005 and after ?

 

[VinMan]

Thanks, maybe I'm safe. By the way "nothing else matters"..... that is one sweet grady with twin 350's!!!!!

 

[striped bass]

OCNSLR
Thanks for the tip. I just called Jeff at Grady White and new replacements are on the way. Getting out the rusted hinge attached to the seacock handle was a real trip! This seacock application was hokey to begin with, but I am glad to see Grady stepping up to the plate with updated replacements. This is a case where the replacement part is of minimal expense but the labor cost is intensive.

 

[ocnslr]

OCNSLR
Thanks for the tip. I just called Jeff at Grady White and new replacements are on the way. Getting out the rusted hinge attached to the seacock handle was a real trip! This seacock application was hokey to begin with, but I am glad to see Grady stepping up to the plate with updated replacements. This is a case where the replacement part is of minimal expense but the labor cost is intensive.

Very happy to hear that GW is taking care of you as well.

Yes, the new reach rod assemblies are about $50 each. I think the potential cost at the dealership could have been $600-$900, based on the hours to get the work done. And they might not have done it as neatly as I did. But I was sore for a week from hanging and reaching into that bilge area. (I also changed the livewell pump while in there.

Brian

 

[Brad1]

Jeff Brown is a good guy. I've receveid very good customer service from him.

 

[jfmagana]

So, I just received my kit of parts from Grady today...they sent two new assemblies (one for the live well...one for the wash-down). Interestingly, the ends of the rods are terminated with a SS piston rod clevis rather than the ball joint rod ends (i.e., the McMaster-Carr part people were referring to earlier). So, my only concern is that this assembly does not have any rotation/swivel...will it bind? Doesn't it need to rotate a little? Anybody out there make this modification already???