Just purchased a 86 241 offshore . The seller told me that the live well and wash down don't work because the Seacock is broken and sealed off...I don't like the sound of this ..I want to replace the entire thru hull and Seacock .. Any suggestions to size and material I should use?.. As for the wash down pump any suggestions there?.... Thanks any suggestions appreciated .. I'm sure this will be a first in a long line of questions about this boat, my 1st Grady..
Seacock replacement
- Thread starter Barometersoup
- Start date
Barometersoup said:
I'm going to guess that it's a 1" seacock. But just measure it and replace with the same size. What do you mean by "material"?
If the only reason that the washdown/livewell pumps don't work is because the seacock is inop, why does the pump need replacing?
Does anyone even make an SS seacock? I can't say I've ever seen one. Even if it was, though, it wouldn't be allowed. Besides bronze, which is likely what is currently there, the only other material I know of that is approved for below the waterline is Marelon. However, you may be able to free up the existing seacock with some penetrating fluid (NOT WD40) like PB Blaster and exercising the handle. Use tools and/or extension handles if needed. Start slow, just a little bit, at first. Eventually, over a few days, it might turn out to be OK.
There's really no "one best" washdown pump. ShurFlo, Jabsco, Attwood, Johnson... just check out the specs vs price and see what makes the most sense for you.
There's really no "one best" washdown pump. ShurFlo, Jabsco, Attwood, Johnson... just check out the specs vs price and see what makes the most sense for you.
Go with Apollo or Groco for the valve, most likely 3/4" or 1". You could even go to a plumbing supply store for the valve which would be the cheapest route.
Correect me if I'm wrong (Dennis), but I beleve the strainer thru-hull is a running thread and the seacock is a female pipe thread. At least everyone that I've done is setup that way. Point being, make sure you put a decent amount of white plumbers tape (having abrain fart right now can't think of the correct name) on the 1" or 3/4" running thread on the strainer. Since the seacock is a female pipe thread, you'll only be able to get so many threads threaded into it.
Correect me if I'm wrong (Dennis), but I beleve the strainer thru-hull is a running thread and the seacock is a female pipe thread. At least everyone that I've done is setup that way. Point being, make sure you put a decent amount of white plumbers tape (having abrain fart right now can't think of the correct name) on the 1" or 3/4" running thread on the strainer. Since the seacock is a female pipe thread, you'll only be able to get so many threads threaded into it.
"Teflon"... :mrgreen: Actually, an even better product is pipe dope. It seems to fill in all the tiny voids better. It actually makes getting a proper seal easier, too. Meaning... you know how sometimes you wrap the teflon tape around a few times, but then the fitting doesn't "stop" right where you want it? Or other times, you wrap it too many times and the fitting stops short of where you want it? That won't happen with paste. Try it, you'll like it!
PTFE... Is Teflon based thread sealant, doesn't harden and crumble like old fashioned pipe dope ...
I didn't know that stainless wasn't allowed for use below the waterline ,only bronze...what is the reason for that ?
I didn't know that stainless wasn't allowed for use below the waterline ,only bronze...what is the reason for that ?
On my 86 the seacock is 3/4" Also they do make ss seacocks http://www.marinepartdepot.com/stfubava3.html
I never heard of not using ss below the water line. Does that also include using ss thru hull fittings that are at the water line?
I never heard of not using ss below the water line. Does that also include using ss thru hull fittings that are at the water line?
Stainless needs contact with air to form the protective layer that resists corrosion. When under water, there isn't sufficient air and it will rust and corrode. If you take a look at some existing SS bolt and screw applications, you often do not see rust on the bolt head but rather see it running out of the hole where the bolt or screw is screwed into. That is due to the fact that moisture gets into the bolt hole but there is not enough air to form the protective coating. That is why bedding the bolt/screw threads and underside of the head in a sealant is important. It keeps the moisture out.Barometersoup said:
suzukidave said:
This is one of those things where there are many opinions. For land based plumbing, I use dope and tape but whether the dope is first or the tape is is one of those 'chicken and egg' questions. I find that using the dope first helps hold the tape in place but I will often apply dope over the tape too. On marine apps, if I have a connection that I will need to undo, I will use tape. The garboard drain plug is an example. However for connections that are meant for the most part to stay connected for a long time, I prefer a sealant only especially where a leak might be a serious event like a seacock. The problem with Teflon tape is that it is slippery and stress and vibration can lead to loosening. If there is a sealing issue as might be the case with reconnecting older fittings, the dope-tape-dope approach is in my opinion the way to go.
For the electricians there is a similar debate:
Which direction do you place the ground pin on a vertical duplex electrical outlet. Pin facing up or pin facing down
seasick said:
Thanks, Seasick -- saved me the typing!
Many people think that SS is the "best" stuff, but bronze is a superior product... it just doesn't have the "looks".
Good dope (with a teflon additive) should never harden. I had some on my Sundancer that was in use for over 10 years when I took it apart and it was not hard. Maybe the old-days formulation of the dope does that.
jbrinch88 said:
From what I have seen the difference in thread depends upon the valve type. A true seacock (with the mounting flange) has straight threads to match the thru hull. A ball valve has NPT thread and is why you only get partial engagement on the thru hull.
Seacock.
Ball Valve.
There may be exceptions to this generalization. Main point is pay very close attention to the thread type.
Jason, I missed this when I read through your post the first time... I would caution against using plumbing store seacocks. There are differences in the chemical make-ups of "marine" bronze and the household brass or bronze. Anything used below the waterline is mandated to have a Marine UL-approval number to show that it is of the correct chemical composition. I believe it has to do with the amount of zinc (and possibly other things) - meaning the non-marine formulation has more zinc in it which could lead to more corrosion. Above the waterline, it's obviously not as critical - but I do not know if there is a code/law dictating whether or not it needs to be Marine UL-rated.