The drain plug on the bottom of the Grady bracket on our 1988 Seafarer will not come out. Would there be a problem if I drill a hole next to it and install a drain plug similar to what is used on the transom drain ? I believe our bracket was made by Springfield back in the day.
Seafarer Grady bracket
- Thread starter dadsgirl
- Start date
It'll come out. Try tapping it out with a cold chisel (or screwdriver) and a hammer. Tap it in a CCW direction.
Don't want to use a bronze plug in aluminum.
Don't want to use a bronze plug in aluminum.
I even had a small pipe wrench on it and all that does is chew the plug up. I was thinking of using a little heat.
What material is the plug (and what it screws into) made of? A wrench should only chew things up if it's slipping - which means grip tighter. If you're using an actual pipe wrench, that should tighten as you apply force. You can try a bigger wrench - or some leverage... put a pipe over the handle of your wrench.
The idea I mentioned works like an impact tool. You may need to drill a small (shallow!) hole to let the chisel bite in. This is assuming the plug is metal - if it's plastic, it should dig right in.
PB Blaster never hurts, either... sprayed once or twice a day for a few days.
The idea I mentioned works like an impact tool. You may need to drill a small (shallow!) hole to let the chisel bite in. This is assuming the plug is metal - if it's plastic, it should dig right in.
PB Blaster never hurts, either... sprayed once or twice a day for a few days.
If the builder used a simple garboard drain plug, like the link, or similar, can you remove the whole unit and replace it?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sea-Dog-...hguid=79c8b7fa-ea6-16bb47c8ea964c&athena=true
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sea-Dog-...hguid=79c8b7fa-ea6-16bb47c8ea964c&athena=true
wrxhoon
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't use brass on aluminum either. I think his plug would be plastic, it was two piece in my old 228. If you can't get it out and it is plastic just destroy it either by drilling it out or with a heat gun to soften it .
The plug is steel, seems like a common pipe plug. I'll try some PB Blaster and see if that helps and replace it with plastic. Thanks for the info.
I can't say for 100%, but that doesn't sound like a normal material to use. Using steel into aluminum will cause corrosion faster than the steel will corrode by itself. Maybe some previous owner didn't know any better. Now I understand why you're having so much trouble. A blow torch to heat the plug up could help, too. For the heat to be effective, you have to get it red - a normal propane torch usually won't do it - but a MAP gas torch will. Remove to the topside access plate to vent the heat. Is there anything inside the bracket that would melt or catch fire?
Since it's steel, drill that little starter hole I mentioned.
Worst case, drill a bunch of holes so you pull the pieces of plug out.
I wouldn't just leave it - eventually it will corrode the aluminum, as well, to the point where it leaks and is not easily fixed.
Since it's steel, drill that little starter hole I mentioned.
Worst case, drill a bunch of holes so you pull the pieces of plug out.
I wouldn't just leave it - eventually it will corrode the aluminum, as well, to the point where it leaks and is not easily fixed.
I thought about grinding it flush, drilling it out, and installing one of those plastid garboard plugs right in place. It looks like once I drill the center out, all I have to do is drill and tap three mounting holes for the new drain plug and seal it with 5200.
wrxhoon
Well-Known Member
Who ever used a steel plug ( even S/S) on ally had rocks in their head. I would drill it out start with a 1/4" bit , 3/8" next and then 1/2". If you stuff up the thread on the aluminum don't worry to much drill it bigger and use one of these:
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I'm using one similar to what wrx posted above. Don't know if it's original or not, but it works great and no corrosion.
wrxhoon
Well-Known Member
My old boat had a two piece plug One part goes on the inside of the bracket ( you need long arm to reach the hole) and the other part goes on the outside , screws in to the inside part to seal the hole . The outside part had a groove with O ring in it . The outside part was like a hex nut all plastic, the hole on the aluminum bracket wasn't threaded. Never let any water in the bracket.
The new boat has a threaded hole in the bracket and a small hex plastic screw, I never had that off. I normally take the deck plate off to check the inside . The deck plate on this boat is much bigger than the old boat and it is quick release type unlike the old that was fixed with several screws.
The swim platform on the new boat is all aluminum and it is welded on the actual bracket so the whole thing is one part unlike the old boat that had f/glass swim platform, it is also a lot bigger and the motor hangs further back.
The other difference is the underside of the new bracket is pointy in the old boat it was flat underneath .
I find the new boat reverses better as well not sure if the bracket has anything to do with that or the prop as I'm using different prop, in time I will put the same prop I had in the old boat to test.
The new boat has a threaded hole in the bracket and a small hex plastic screw, I never had that off. I normally take the deck plate off to check the inside . The deck plate on this boat is much bigger than the old boat and it is quick release type unlike the old that was fixed with several screws.
The swim platform on the new boat is all aluminum and it is welded on the actual bracket so the whole thing is one part unlike the old boat that had f/glass swim platform, it is also a lot bigger and the motor hangs further back.
The other difference is the underside of the new bracket is pointy in the old boat it was flat underneath .
I find the new boat reverses better as well not sure if the bracket has anything to do with that or the prop as I'm using different prop, in time I will put the same prop I had in the old boat to test.