Shower sum pump
- Thread starter Joe arrigo
- Start date
A fuse is a lot cheaper than a float switch. I would be checking for power, and hoping not to find it.
I think the old blue ones have a short piece of the shaft sticking out where the wires go in. See if you can get a grip on it, and manually lift the float.
I think the old blue ones have a short piece of the shaft sticking out where the wires go in. See if you can get a grip on it, and manually lift the float.
Last edited:
Hookup1
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Not sure where the fuse is but if you can find it start there.
You can rotate the float switch on the right side to see if it comes on. Careful with the wires - keep them out of the water. - this is a common failure point. Take the screws out of the float switch, keep it level and push the float up (its a mercury switch so gravity matters!).
Get a voltmeter (cheap Harbor Freight ones are good enough) and check for power. Unfortunately you are gt oing to have to open the wire or connections up to test so shrink tubing and a heat gun should be on hand. Don't just use electrical tape!
You can rotate the float switch on the right side to see if it comes on. Careful with the wires - keep them out of the water. - this is a common failure point. Take the screws out of the float switch, keep it level and push the float up (its a mercury switch so gravity matters!).
Get a voltmeter (cheap Harbor Freight ones are good enough) and check for power. Unfortunately you are gt oing to have to open the wire or connections up to test so shrink tubing and a heat gun should be on hand. Don't just use electrical tape!
Yep. On the DC side of the main panel check the switch for the sump pump or shower sump. I just always left mine on since the AC condensate line runs into it.