Spring polishing and waxing

[Doctorsrh]

I use Collinite polish and Collinite wax. I use an orbital buffer with the polish for the larger, flat areas, and by hand around the corners, hardware, etc. Then wax by hand. After reading some other posts, am I doing it backwards? Should I be polishing by hand, and waxing with the orbital buffer? I've also read where others just wax without polishing, first. Is that OK?
Am I doing it correctly??

 

[seasick]

You can use the buffer for both operations but must use different pads.

 

[gradyfish22]

As stated above, different applicator for each but you can use an orbital for both. Doing it by hand usually reduced swirl marks, if they are present use 3M finesse it-II to get rid of them, doing it by hand is more work but can reduce swirls typically as long as your using the right applicators. also, make sure last years wax was removed before polishing or waxing ove rit, if you do not your old wax under the new stuff will yellow and later haze. I use colinites 920 hull cleaner every fall when I haul the boat, then just wax in the spring. If you have a good shine polish might not be needed, infact I've never needed it before. Hull cleaner every fall, don;t let it sit til spring, will be more work then and not come out as good. In the spring just wax and you should have a very shiny boat, most important step is getting the old wax off to reduce hazing, also the old wax will flex and crack and hold air in as you wax over causing that oxidation, more reason it is good to get it off before adding more.

 

[Mjdap]

I am in the process of spring clean and wax. I have kept up with my hull over the years by using Collonite 920 cleaner and liquid fleetwax.

This is the first year I tried an electrical variable speed polisher for buffing. I applied the cleaner to the hull by hand and then buffed, using the electrical polisher, out the cleaner, and followed up with a hand buff.

I repeated the process with fleetwax. The hull looks great, but I am not sure if the buffer made that much of a difference over hand buffing, but I could do more area quicker.

Now. the outside face of my gunnel cap is a different story. I feel that I tried to keep up with it, but it has faded, and certainly does not have the nice off white cream color like the hull.

I bought 3M finess II and 3M compound, and I tried a section. It seems that I need the compound as an inital step instead of just the Finess II.

I guess it just is a matter of trying different techniques, but the polisher will come in very handy on the gunnel

 

[Doctorsrh]

Thanks to all. My 24 Explorer comes up nice with the way I am currently doing it. It does take time, but it's worth the effort and the hurting hands afterward.

 

[magicalbill]

This may be more trouble than the different steps of cleaning I'm reading about here.

I wax my 232 3-4 times a season with Turtle Wax Platinum Series and it looks great.
My rig stays indoors while not in use, so that helps...
I just would rather do it once a month or so and not have to do all the stages of polishing, buffing, etc.

 

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

So, what's the correct order? Clean/polish/wax ?

 

[seasick]

So, what's the correct order? Clean/polish/wax ?

Yes to a point. The polish is abrasive and helps clean up the finish and remove haze. It is not as abrasive as compound but is abrasive nevertheless. You need to determine if the polishing is needed at every treatment. It may be sufficient to just clean and wax after the first season detailing. The most important task is to rinse the hull after each outing or after sitting for a while in the water. Use boat soap and a brush if possible to remove slime and scum. The finish will thank you.

 

[JiminGA]

Here's what I did at "detail-time." (BTW, I do the hull-wax thing 2 times a year with a FULL boat detail each year.)

1. Thoroughly washed everything with Orpine boat soap and "Woody Waxed" the deck/non-skid, hard-top, and rails according to the directions. 2. Cleaned everything else with Collinite 920 - used a "Ryobi" 10 inch orbital (from Home depot - about $40) using the applicator pad to apply the cleaner, then buffed it off by hand with terry towels. 3. Same as process as step 2 using Collinite 925 wax - again buffing off by hand with terry towels. 4. A "final buff" using the buffing pad on the Ryobi moving it around QUICKLY and LIGHTLY. That last step was the one that really enhanced the shine and it took less than 10 minutes for the whole hull. (We had found that trying to use the Ryobi without first hand buffing with a towel caused the buffing pad to clog with wax particles.)

And the results? See for yourself!

 

[Mjdap]

JiminGA

That is a very nice shine, mine is not bad, but not like yours. I may try your process on the port side and compare to my completed starboard side of the hull.

However, does your top side gunnel look as well, and if so, that is what I am trying to achieve.

When the weather warms back up, I need to work the gunnel.

 

[JiminGA]

Thanks for the compliment! Yes the gunnel looks just as nice. I AM careful to keep the Collinite off of the non-skid!!! I Woody Wax the nonskid on the gunnel per the WW instructions.

I think the secret to getting the deep shine is to use the 920 cleaner first to make sure you have a good prepped surface before using the 925 or Fleetwax.

 

[gradyfish22]

I agree 100% that the 920 makes a huge difference, it not only cleans the hull but it turns it back white and gets rid of the hazing and discoloring, the hull will all be one shade. It also assure's you removed your last wax coat which is often the reason why you can work your butt off and still not get the perfect shine. Ever since I started using 920 to clean the hull my hull looked 100x better, there was a big difference. As stated above, I use 920 in the fall after haul out, clean it once with boat soap in the spring then wax and I'm set, no need for polish, and it shines great.

 

[Doctorsrh]

gradyfish22,

I'm curious. I was taught that once the polish is applied and removed, that the wax must be applied before anything (rain, dust, etc) gets on the surface so that you don't wax over the debris. That's why I polish the hull, then wax the hull, then move inside the boat to polish then wax, until the boat is finished. If you polish in the fall, and wash/clean in the spring, does your wax seem to hold up throughout the season?

Your method is interesting, but when I pull the boat in the fall, I don't have time to polish, so I wait until spring to do it all. But there are always two ways to skin the cat.

 

[Bama96]

Hey Jim I see your in Georgia. I thought I would just drive over and drop my 222 Fisherman off for you to deatail. Man your Grady looks like it just popped out of the mold. Do you or anyone else know the difference in the Collonite Fleetwax and the Collonite Boat Wax#925? I order the #920 Cleaner and got the liquid Fleetwax. I see you used the Boat Wax. Is there any difference?

 

[JiminGA]

Thanks, Bama for the compliment.

This is from the Collinite website, FAQs page:

Should I always apply one of your cleaners (920 Fiberglass Boat Cleaner or 840 Prewax Cleaner) before waxing?

It is not always necessary. Take a look at each scenario, depending on if you are working on your car or boat.

Boat: If it is older (more than 6 years) and has any oxidation, dirt or film embedded in the paint, use the cleaner first, then apply the wax. If the paint appears to be clean after a wash, then simply apply the wax and skip the cleaner. Collinite also makes a one-step formula called the #870 Liquid Fleetwax, which is a cleaner-wax combo. Its durability is not as strong as cleaning and waxing separately, but you will still get 2-3 months out of it. Also, if you have a larger boat (25+ ft.), it is a nice time saving option to have, which is why it is Collinite’s #1 seller in the Marine Industry.

I've always used the 920 followed by the 925 (2 times/year). I don't go crazy with the cleaner - just a light application followed by a buff (wipe on/wipe off). The 925 wax instructions state that it works best when the hull is prepped with the 920 cleaner. I've been doing this since the boat was new and it ALWAYS gives a shine like those pics. Right now the boat is in Pensacola at the NAS marina. We had to take it a couple of months ago to the local GW dealer to get the freshwater pump changed. The guys in the shop there told us it looked the same or better than the new ones!

BTW, we ALWAYS give it a fresh water rinse (yes after every trip) and frequently wash with a mild solution of OrPine soap, as needed. We also keep it covered. That might seem a little anal to some, but I want this boat to be a keeper!

 

[Bama96]

Thanks Jim. I ordered the cleaner and the boat wax. I can't wait to try it out and see the results. I figure even though she is an 07' the cleaner should be used. She has sat out in Destin,Fl next to the salt air and sun. I figure the old wax has had it and needs to come off. I ordered one of those Porter Cable orbital random buffers and some Collonite metal wax as well. Time to get to work. I will provide before and after shots so everyone can see the difference. One more thing what do you use on the rubber rub rail?

 

[JiminGA]

One more thing what do you use on the rubber rub rail?

Soap and water

I suppose you could use something like 303 protectant or one of the Armorall products - I've just never been too concerned about the rail. Maybe someone else has a thought. Good luck with your clean and wax job - you'll be amazed at your "new bost" when you're done!

BTW, we'll have the boat in Destin for 1 week in mid-May - hoping to bloody the decks. PM me with all your secret fishing spot GPS numbers. ok? :lol:

 

[seasick]

One more thing what do you use on the rubber rub rail?

If the rub rail is really oxidized, I use acetone with a rag to clean it. It wroks fairly weel to bring out the color. The I apply 303 protectorant. I find that all other treatments like Armorall eventually develop a white haze when exposed to the sun.

 

[Bama96]

One more thing what do you use on the rubber rub rail?

Soap and water

I suppose you could use something like 303 protectant or one of the Armorall products - I've just never been too concerned about the rail. Maybe someone else has a thought. Good luck with your clean and wax job - you'll be amazed at your "new bost" when you're done!

BTW, we'll have the boat in Destin for 1 week in mid-May - hoping to bloody the decks. PM me with all your secret fishing spot GPS numbers. ok? :lol:

PM me when you are going down. I would love to pair up and go out. My place is on Holiday Isle on the Harbor. The problem is in May no Snapper. Season opens June 1. We can get on some near shore bull Reds and maybe a King or two if they are here then.

Seasick-I will try the acetone. Someone told me Mother's Back to Black works as well.

 

[catch22]

One more thing what do you use on the rubber rub rail?

If the rub rail is really oxidized, I use acetone with a rag to clean it. It wroks fairly weel to bring out the color. The I apply 303 protectorant. I find that all other treatments like Armorall eventually develop a white haze when exposed to the sun.

I second that.

The acetone really does the trick for cleaning up the rub-rail. Follow up with several protectent applications.

Great job JiminGA... that hull looks awsome!