Spring recommendations for the newbees

Fishtales

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Now that spring is here and you are eager to splash; serve up your best tips for others to leverage.....

- Stay Afloat. This is a must in your safety kit. Watch the video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=888wQhRcmjQ While you are at it, go through your safety and first aid kits. Check fire extinguishers and ensure all are not expired and in the "green" area on the gauge.
- Euro transom inspection port replacement. Do yourself a favor and replace the pop-in lid ones with screw-in type. Much more positive. http://www.beckson.com/screwout.html. While at it, ensure others are sealed well to the deck and the o-rings are in good shape.
- Extra lighting. If you do this, get the best or be prepared to do it every other year. You can tie into other cockpit lighting for an easy install in the cabin, under the gunnel or in the helm area. I used these: http://lumiteclighting.com/product/rail ... ion=marine
- Cleaning under the deck hatches. Can't beat Simple Green for dirt and Zep Mold and Mildew cleaner for mold. Get gallons and sprayers at HD cheap. Spray and let sit for 3 minutes and hose it all down. While the boat is on stands and the plug is out, all will drain right out the bilge.
- Cleaning and Wax. I prefer Collinite 920 cleaner followed by Meguiars Marine Wax (both liquid). Hit all the thru holes with Noxon cleaner before. Random orbital buffer like Porter Cable 7424 and pads from the chemical guys. No special skill required.
- Pipes, hardtop and non-skid areas. Apply woody wax after you are done cleaning.
- Cauling. GE Silicone Almond color. Check around the transom and usual spots. Great for filling the spaces between floor hatches and cockpit floor.
- Bilge high water alarm. Standard on newer GWs. You can add a Johnson Control pretty easily. The hardest part is chasing the wire up to the helm.
- Remotes and other hand held items. Adhesive velcro works well for these. Cut and afix a piece where you want to store the item as well as on the back. I've used the softer side for things that tend to bang around as well (where collapsable boarding ladder end hits the gelcoat for example).
- Autotether. If you do a lot of boating alone, you really should consider one. Not cheap, but could save you and your boat.
- Wiper blades. Anco sells direct replacements that install in the metal arms. There are more than a few threads on them here. DIY and save. While at it - RainX.
- Enclosure. Clean off the boat. Meguiars has a 2 step cleaner and polisher. These remove a lot of the dirt and crud. Finish with Plexus in a spray can. West Marine has a cheap snap kit that works for small replacements. If your boat has them, order some of the "lift the dot" clips on the windshield so you have them if a post breaks off.
- Check that plug is firmly installed and tight. Check prop(s) and cotter pins.
- Check sacrificial zincs (motors, thruster etc). Charge/verify batteries. Check head, macerator & overboard pumpout with water. Do this before it is filled and you find the problem. Check all pressurized hoses, faucets and head pumps. Ensure no cracks due to incorrectly anti-freeze application. You want to catch now - especially if you paid for the work to get done.
- Sanitize your freshwater hold. Run a small amount of bleach and/or use commerically avail products. Check hot water heater, blower & ac if avail. Fire up generator, run without and with load.
- Check and maybe change out your lighting to LED bulbs. They make direct replacement for almost all bulbs. Perko makes led navigation lights that directly replace those on the bow.


Nuff here to get you thinking.... Who is next?
 

Sharkbait282

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I'll bite, I like your list FishTales
- Fuel fill cap O-rings: replace them. I don't care if they look nice. This is a primary source of water contamination for fuel tanks.
- Bracket and motor anodes: replace them. I don't care if they look nice. The way I've heard this is that the shell can look fine but the material is fully wasted (by weight) on the inside.
- I'm actually going to go with Wax the TOP of the T-Top, because . . . well maybe it'll make it all wash away easier into the season a bit.
- flitz and choice of wax for aluminum rails before you reinstall canvas, because you can get all those hidden bits better.
- Exercise your bilge pump float switches and manual dash switches while you have access to fresh water before you launch.
- Trim tab anodes: make sure you have solid, clean, metal to metal contact . . . they won't work otherwise!
 

journeyman

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All great stuff! I'll add a couple.

- Flush out your deck scuppers. Leaves, twigs, nests and who knows what else can build up and impede water from draining well. Have someone hold the rubber flap open and flush away.

- Treat your anchor line. Fill a wheelbarrow with fresh water, stir in a cup of fabric softener and soak the anchor line for an hour or so. Throw your dock lines and any other rope you carry with you in there as well. Makes a big difference.

- Install transom drain plug and fill your bilge with water to actually test the bilge float. If the float is cracked and filled with water, it'll never come on.

- Where you can find access, run a snake through the drain tubes that connect / pass through the compartments below the deck to check for blockage. You'd be surprise what can find it's way into them. Run water through and see if it drains well.

- Clean and lubricate the zipper on the hardtop storage if you have one. Most store life jackets up there and you don't want a problem in an emergency.

- If you don't remove stuff from your boat before winter storage, do so now. Take stock of what you have, what needs replacement and what you thought you would use but never did and carry around for nothing. Clean the area before restocking.

May the fun begin!!!
 

Parthery

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I'll add a couple more....

1.) Snap-stick or other wax product on all your installed snap heads. Takes 5 minutes and your canvas will thank you.

2.) Check for firmware updates for your electronics and take care of these if the manufacturer has released an update. Both my GPS and VHF had updates released and it was simply a matter of loading them on an SD card and then plugging the card into the electronics.

3.) Pull the prop. Check the shaft for fishing line. Clean and regrease. Reinstall prop with a fresh cotter pin.

4.) Check the batteries. I replace mine every 3 years. Right now Costco has Interstates in Group 24 and 27 for under $80. If you prefer the East Penn Dekas check Sam's Club or Batteries Plus (Branded as Duracell but made by East Penn / Deka) Clean all connections and reinstall.

5.) Stock up. Everyone seems to have Spring sales right now. I've stocked up on outboard oil, fuel stabilizer, fuel filters, spark plugs, etc... I know I'll need this stuff throughout the year. May as well save 30% right now.
 

fellinger

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Learn basic first aid!

Add a commercial tactical tourniquet to your first aid kit and know how to use it!

Check your ditch bag.
 

journeyman

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I'll add another that I just ran across this morning.

If you have one of the bigger Yamaha engines and the gear case doesn't come all the way out of the water, it needs bottom paint (metal friendly). I started prepping the boat for paint and removed the plastic screens on the lower unit. Inside were some nice crusty barnacles. Scrape 'em out and paint inside, as far as you can reach.

While I'm here... Since I could not be absolutely sure that the paint used by the previous owner on the engine bracket and trim tabs was non-copper, I spent the last 2 days stripping off. BIG job!!! I used Aqua Strip and it worked ok but a lot of sore muscles. No sign of corrosion on the bracket but a few areas on the edges of the tabs were rough and rusted. Gonna use Pettit metal primer, then Tie Coat, then Hydrocoat Eco on the whole boat. I feel much better going forward!!
 

Jcrawford

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This is a great list! I just got my boat last August so this is a great list as I start do my first spring commission of this "new to me" boat. What is the recommendation for cleaning/waxing the top of the hardtop? I have some decent chalking on it.
 

Fishtales

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For the hard top, I'd just scrub it well and apply woody wax. There is a slight imprint (not non-skid) and I think wax would be a PIA. Might have to do it one additional time mid summer, but it is an easy to do wipe on application.

Ditch bag is huge. Spend the money and make sure you have what it takes should the worst occur. I put the tubs of Stay Afloat in my ditch bags. PLB good, EPIRB better and both best.
 

fellinger

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Fishtales said:
For the hard top, I'd just scrub it well and apply woody wax. There is a slight imprint (not non-skid) and I think wax would be a PIA. Might have to do it one additional time mid summer, but it is an easy to do wipe on application.

Ditch bag is huge. Spend the money and make sure you have what it takes should the worst occur. I put the tubs of Stay Afloat in my ditch bags. PLB good, EPIRB better and both best.

Curious as to why you put Stay Afloat in your ditch bag and not kept handy on and below deck where they most likely would be needed?
 

Fishtales

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No real reason. The bags are right under the front of companion seat and quickly accessible. The stuff is also a bit heavy, so I thought it would be good in a padded bag.
 

fellinger

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Fishtales said:
No real reason. The bags are right under the front of companion seat and quickly accessible. The stuff is also a bit heavy, so I thought it would be good in a padded bag.

Gotcha. I would just hate to have that extra weight in my ditch bag which I have rigged to float more so than the original bag. I will be making a "ring" out of stainless or a hose clam that will hold my containers of Stay Afloat in the bilge are and other below deck areas where I would most likely need them. This way they are strategically placed in the areas where they will most likely be needed. I also hang wedges in the same areas to repair any holes or blown hoses.
 

journeyman

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Spring Checklist Done (In Spite Of The Weatherman!):

– Replaced the incorrectly sized anchor rode (9/16” 8 plait) with 1/2” 8 plait for my Lewmar V700 windlass. I bought 300’ of line with 30’ of 1/4” chain from Seco South. Will purchase another anchor and now I will have a nice spare set-up for fishing on the banks. Windlass was greased before loading.

– Replaced old Lumitec Seablaze 3 with Lumitec Seablaze X blue/white underwater lights. One of the old ones was bad and rather than just replace it, I upgraded. 1000 more lumens each.

– Replaced the 3 transom pry out deck plates with Beckson screw in type with a nice bead of silicone sealant. Screws holes were a perfect match. The old pry outs came off way to easily. There was no adhesion at all and some areas had very little silicone. No wonder it was leaking!

– Sent my Autotether back to Manufacturer. It turns out I had a bad host circuit board and it was a relatively inexpensive repair. Everyone that has one should check to confirm it is working properly!!! They were fast with the diagnosis and easy to deal with.

– Re-rigged outriggers with new dacron, 400# swivels and Aftco Roller Troller release clips. Replaced glass rings with Hal-Lock outrigger pulleys and added a small pulley at the top of the outrigger. Smooth and no more line creep.

– Replaced a bad trim tab HPU. Thanks Bennett Marine for your help!

– My dealer, Baert Marine, replaced hydraulic lift/trim motor covers. They were severely corroded. They also replaced cracked/broken wiper bushings and, while it was apart, the trim seals. Not leaking but why not?

– Renewed Coast Guard Documentation. Purchased and laminated state fishing and lobster licenses and federal tuna permits. Printed and laminated latest federal and state fishing regulations. I get emails on any changes that may occur throughout the year. Sea Tow gets renewed in August.

– Cleaned, greased and oiled all rods and reels as needed. Stripped and re-spooled light tackle reels with new mono and medium tackle reels with new braid. Inspected and refilled needed items in my lure and terminal tackle trays. Plus added some new items that I know the fish will not resist!!!

– Generator maintenance. Oil and fuel filter change. Siphoned old fuel and filled with fresh diesel and added treatment. Replaced cracked O-ring on the fuel fill cap. My generator has very few hours (55) on it and after reading here and on other sites that I should run it often, I plan to do so. Will probably tackle the water pump sometime this year.

– My wife sewed a custom fit cover and a fitted sheet for the memory foam we added last season in the V-berth. Nice! With it, we actually sleep very well on board.

– Replaced all batteries on the boat as they were original. One of the starting batteries failed load test during last year’s survey and was replaced then, I figured it’s better to replace the rest now.

– Replaced the bad shower sump float. The pump worked by switching on the breaker but not when the float switch was raised. While I was in the area, I cleaned the bilge around it and around the head tank. Tested bilge high water alarm.

– I wasn’t completely sure that the previous owner used metal friendly (non- copper) paint on the engine bracket and trim tabs so I used Aqua Strip paint stripper and took it all off. They were repainted starting with Pettit Metal Primer, Pettit Tie Coat, and then a coat of bottom paint on the whole boat after sanding. I switched from Pettit Hydrocoat to Pettit Hydrocoat Eco. Now everything gets the same paint. No worries about paint touching metal and having to buy and store different paints. And it’s more environmentally friendly.

– Replaced thruster anode and greased prop shaft before re-installing prop.

– Bottom painted dinghy. Used the rest of the Hydrocoat I had as there is no metal to contend with. Next year it will get the Hydrocoat Eco, same as the Marlin. There are no compatibility issues. Also wired a bilge pump in the dinghy to deal with rain storms.

– Flushed, leak checked and commissioned generator, A/C, salt water wash down, head, live well and fresh water system. Checked operation of all AC and DC auxiliaries: lights, refrigerator, stove, outlets and cockpit instrumentation etc. Checked operation of bilge pumps and bilge drainage tubes. Flushed scuppers (lots of leaves and bugs cleared out). Checked oil and ran both engines up to temperature. Installed transom drain plug.

– Even though we did a decent job cleaning the boat when we first brought it home, there were lots of areas to tackle that we just thought could wait because it would be easier to do on the hard at home in our driveway. Lots of elbow grease but we’re happy now!

– Resealed rear bilge deck panel. Removed the drawer boxes at the foot of rear hard top stanchions. They collect water. I Drilled a drain hole in each corner. Replaced with a bead of silicone.

– Removed all Eisenglass enclosure curtains. Placed them on plywood and a terry cloth towel for leverage and used Meguiars plastic cleaner then Plexus polish. Huge difference!

– Inspected and cleaned as necessary all safety gear. Check your expiration dates!

– Top to bottom cleaning, scrubbing, a wash and a rinse. Polished all metal and fiberglass. Loaded up all our gear and we put in today. We’re tired but WOO-HOO!!!


2015 Review:

- Bought our Marlin in December of 2014 from Cataumet Boats.
- East Coast Bow Thruster installed a Vetus Bow55 thruster.
- New England Lettering installed new graphics and name (SEA GLASS).
- Yes, we performed the renaming ceremony paid homage to the Gods.
- Stanley’s boat yard in Barrington RI took care of the spring commissioning.
- Took possession of in May. A very late spring in New England.
- Maiden voyage from RI to Gloucester MA. A nice trip and a happy day!!!
- Replaced faulty baitwell pump.
- Added stern and bow fender holders.
- Had custom marine carpets made for the helm area and cabin. Very, very nice!
- Enjoyed the heck out of our “new” boat!!! Relax, Dive, Fish, Repeat!
- Pulled out mid October. Sad day!
- Baert Marine took care of my F350s. Not my thing.
Normal winterizing and tuning plus VST filters. Fuel injectors next fall.
- I did the winterizing of all other systems and shrink wrapped the boat.
- Dreamed of Spring!


Summer Projects at my leisure:

- Build cutting board and Scuba tank holders out of King Starboard.
I will duplicate what I made for our last boat.
- Reconfigured mid-berth rod storage for more room.
- Loud hailer speaker.
- LED Nav lights.
- LED cabin lights. I know somebody posted info here, gotta search.
- Replace red LED under gunwale lights for Lumitec Rail2 blue LED lights.
- Add Lumitec LED blue courtesy lights on walk around steps.
- Can you tell my wife likes blue?
- Enjoy the heck out of our boat!
- Relax, Dive, Fish, Repeat!


Have a great, fun and safe boating season!!!
 

Jbmttfarm

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Any chance anyone has a Spring and Winter checklist? Would love to just keep them on file, note dates, condition of items, etc. If nobody knows of them is there an interest? Perhaps I can leverage what is here for Spring, post the file and get more input? If I can get the same material for Winter I'll do it too.

Thanks in advance.

1998 Gulfstream with 2 Mercury 150s
 

Jcrawford

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Jbmttfarm said:
Any chance anyone has a Spring and Winter checklist? Would love to just keep them on file, note dates, condition of items, etc. If nobody knows of them is there an interest? Perhaps I can leverage what is here for Spring, post the file and get more input? If I can get the same material for Winter I'll do it too.

Thanks in advance.

1998 Gulfstream with 2 Mercury 150s

I started from this thread to make a list of spring items. It doesn't have everything but more or less has the things I need to remember for my boat. Here is a link to the file.

https://docs.google.com/document/d/14wA ... sp=sharing