i have a 2019 285 freedom....the starboard battery constantly dies. i use the boat about once a week. per the gauges, the battery is charging at 14.4. while in dry storage, all power is off. i've replaced the battery but the issue continues. my dealer has been unable to correctly diagnose the issue. thoughts?
starboard battery constantly dies
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Fishtales
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I'm guessing something is drawing power constant or intermittently and draining the battery. If you are able, move some of the wires that feed items between batteries and try to isolate what is drawing power.
a few trouble shooting ideas.
1. id all circuits on the starboard battery.
2. ensure battery switches are all off
3. turn off main breaker on battery switch panel (and windlass if there is one)
4. make sure red button kill switch on thruster is off
at this point only constant feeds should be in play. radio and bilge switch ? anything else installed? if the radio is attached to the starboard, i would pull the plug behind the radio. if it is safe, disconnect the bilge and float attached to the starboard battery. if the battery maintains, you can work backwards to determine the culprit.
this all is predicated on the dealer already:
1. using a power probe and not able to id the issue
2. checking charging voltage directly at the battery
3. checking battery charger for correct output.
4. checking engine for correct charging output.
5. popping the battery select panel and ensuring correct wiring schematic
doing a methodical trouble shoot should get you to the answer, but YOU should NOT have to be doing this on a 2019 boat. unless you did electrical modifications or used an electronics installer other than the dealer.
if i come up with anything else, i'll post. good luck, ron
1. id all circuits on the starboard battery.
2. ensure battery switches are all off
3. turn off main breaker on battery switch panel (and windlass if there is one)
4. make sure red button kill switch on thruster is off
at this point only constant feeds should be in play. radio and bilge switch ? anything else installed? if the radio is attached to the starboard, i would pull the plug behind the radio. if it is safe, disconnect the bilge and float attached to the starboard battery. if the battery maintains, you can work backwards to determine the culprit.
this all is predicated on the dealer already:
1. using a power probe and not able to id the issue
2. checking charging voltage directly at the battery
3. checking battery charger for correct output.
4. checking engine for correct charging output.
5. popping the battery select panel and ensuring correct wiring schematic
doing a methodical trouble shoot should get you to the answer, but YOU should NOT have to be doing this on a 2019 boat. unless you did electrical modifications or used an electronics installer other than the dealer.
if i come up with anything else, i'll post. good luck, ron
one other thing. if you leave the charger on constantly it could boil your battery if it is not operating properly. i myself only use the charger when i am on the boat, and my batteries are well maintained. ron
To find which circuit is draining the battery, this the simplest way I have found...
Isolate the battery by disconnecting any cables going to other batteries but leaving the culprit battery connected into the system as usual...now disconnect the negative cable from the battery and Using a test light that is an ice pick with a light bulb in the clear plastic handle, connect it in line from the end of the ground cable to the battery negative. If there is a drain, the test light will light up. Now just start removing fuses one at a time and checking the test light after each one. When the light goes out, you have found The offending circuit.
Isolate the battery by disconnecting any cables going to other batteries but leaving the culprit battery connected into the system as usual...now disconnect the negative cable from the battery and Using a test light that is an ice pick with a light bulb in the clear plastic handle, connect it in line from the end of the ground cable to the battery negative. If there is a drain, the test light will light up. Now just start removing fuses one at a time and checking the test light after each one. When the light goes out, you have found The offending circuit.
Hookup1
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See if dealer has a clamp on DC amp meter to see if its a large current draw. Check individual wires to switch and then those that come out.
If the current draw is low (milliamps to a few amps) you can hook your voltmeter inline with the load. Be sure to check how many amps your meter can handle.
Not that hard to do and most direct way to find out what is draining your battery. And make sure your new battery wasn't damaged by the deep discharges. Have it tested.
If the current draw is low (milliamps to a few amps) you can hook your voltmeter inline with the load. Be sure to check how many amps your meter can handle.
Not that hard to do and most direct way to find out what is draining your battery. And make sure your new battery wasn't damaged by the deep discharges. Have it tested.
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Test it yourself...
I’ve got one of these. It’s simple to use and leaves no doubt.
The charging at 14.4 volts during operation tells me that the battery is quite discharged but that is a symptom not a cause for your issue.
First thing to do is to turn off batteries switches and see if any devices that shouldn't work, do work. Check the stereo if you have one.It may have a preset memory wire that is normally wired directly to the battery but the main feed may have been wired instead. When the switches are off, your stereo should not operate.
The next thing to check are bilge pumps automatic mode. Make sure the float switches are not sticking. If water is getting into the bilge, the pump will run and eventually drain the battery if the pumps cycles enough.
Put a towel in the bilge at a low but usually dry area. Next time you check the boat, check the towel. If t is soaking wet, you probably have a bilge water issue.
Do you have any sort od battery minder/trickle charger connected?
Hookup1
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I'm assuming this is a warranty issue with the dealer. Even thought its not your problem to fix it you have to live through it until they fix it. You may not want to dig into it but I'll post it anyway.
Just to be clear...
When plugged in to shore power the gauges indicate the battery is charging at 14.4. Correct?
When in dry storage all power is off and the boat/charger is not plugged in to shore power? Correct?
To answer Seasick's question: Do you have any sort of battery minder/trickle charger connected while in dry storage?
Are battery switches in the OFF position while in dry storage?
First thing I would do is make sure the battery is being charged. Next time you are in the water do a few check with a voltmeter. Don't rely on the gauges. Even a $6.49 Cen-Tek (Harbor Freight) is good enough. Alligator clips would be helpful too. Connect multimeter to starboard battery.
1.) Voltage reading - engines OFF, NO shore power to charger, charger OFF. Expect 12.8 volts for fully charged healthy battery. If the battery is completely discharged you should charge it for at least 12 hours - take it out of the boat if you have to.
2.) Voltage reading - engines OFF, YES shore power to charger, charger ON. Expect 14 .1 volts when charger is charging, If battery is discharged it will take time for this voltage to come up. After charging the newer smart chargers will drop down to 13.5 volts finishing cycle.
3.) Voltage reading - engines ON, NO shore power to charger, charger OFF. Expect 13.5 volts or better when engine alternator is charging battery.
4.) At the end of the day check battery voltage (step 1 and step 3) so you know the state before you put it away.
These checks will only take 5 minutes but will tell you that your battery and charging system are working properly. You can leave the voltmeter connected and check battery voltage every hour.
Next I would use the voltmeter to check amperage on each connection to the positive lead of the starboard battery. This cheap Cen-Tek meter can handle 10 amp DC load. If the load is on the switch leg then move to the switch and check amperage.
7-Function Digital Multimeter
Amazing deals on this 7 Function Digital Multimeter at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com
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When my batteries are on the Guest charger ( shore powered)on Myotherboat and the boat batteries are charged, the batteries read about 12.8 volts with the charger still powered on (maintenance mode).I always wondered why I don't see a higher voltage but realized that I am looking at my engine gauges (not yahama motors or gauges in this example) and I have to turn on the ignition for the Smartcraft gauges to activate. I suspect that the draw of the motor causes a bit of voltage drop at the actual battery terminals.On that hull, the cable run from the battery is longer that usual since the batteries are at the helm
One of these days, I will use the DVM to compare readings at the battery terminals. For the record, I have a lot more confidence in the accuracy of the Smartcraft gauges than I do with my Yami gauges
One of these days, I will use the DVM to compare readings at the battery terminals. For the record, I have a lot more confidence in the accuracy of the Smartcraft gauges than I do with my Yami gauges
Hookup1
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My F150's are on the NMEA 2000 buss and interface with the Garmin 4210. The engine gauges come up on the Garmin and are dead on accurate. Garmin is just displaying what the engines told it. With no charger and not running they read 12.8 volts. With either the charger or the engine running I get 14.1 volts.
To see the house battery I put the Garmin in sounder mode and have the voltage displayed. This always reads low. Possibly voltage drop from the battery or fuse block. Unit is flush mounted and I'm too lazy to take it out to put voltmeter on it. It's good enough!
To see the house battery I put the Garmin in sounder mode and have the voltage displayed. This always reads low. Possibly voltage drop from the battery or fuse block. Unit is flush mounted and I'm too lazy to take it out to put voltmeter on it. It's good enough!
don't bother. i had 5212's. at some point in the past a software update caused the sonar voltage readout to go sideways. mine was about 1/2 volt or so low. ron
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The OP stated that all power was switched off. I would assume that means the battery switches are OFF in which case, the fridge should not be powered.
As suggested, first step is to see what electrical things work when the switches are off. Just about everything except auto bilge pumps and stereo memory if wired should not power up. It should be also relatively easy to check for battery drain with the switches off using a multi-meter in current mode, a 12 volt cheap test light in series (current will make the bulb glow but maybe really dim) or even the old and not exactly recommended method of just touching the disconnected ground battery cable to the negative battery post and looking/listening for spark
What is condition of the port battery ?
Are you sure all batteries and charger have a good tight connection to ground ?
Are you sure all batteries and charger have a good tight connection to ground ?