2000 272 Sailfish....When turning the wheel either left or right, there is about 2 " of turn(very loose) until the hydraulic system begins to turn the motors. Hydraulic system is full and has been bled. After the approx 2" the wheel/motors turn smoothly. Any thoughts as where to start checking this system. No real problem, just annoyance.
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Steering Wheel Play
- Thread starter SilverLining
- Start date
catch22
Well-Known Member
Couple of things to check out.
Assuming you have Yamaha's and Seastar steering.
Check out pages 64 and 65 for details. http://ww2.seastarsteering.com/PDFs/296221-E.pdf
If that link doesn't work, go here - http://ww2.seastarsteering.com/SITE_MAP/s_map.htm click on "Seastar installation books", (left side, near bottom)... then click on the first file, at the top of the list, (296221).
First... there's a knurled adjustment knob, on the outboard's tilt tube, (item 16). The knob should have a small locking screw. Older Seastar models were metal and had an alllen head screw... newer models are plastic and have either a slotted or Phillips screw. Anyway... loosen the screw and turn the knob counter-clockwise to take out any slack. You should be able to turn it by hand. If it's jammed, use channel locks... but be careful not to over tighten it... you just want to take out play. Also... having someone move the steering wheel back and forth, while your adjusting the knob, helps to take out the slack.
And... check out items 6 and 7 on page 65, slide follower and bushing. If either of those are worn or damaged, you'll get lots of play.
If that doesn't help... again, have someone move the wheel back and forth. Closely watch your steering cylinder and ram to see if it moves as soon as the steering wheel does. If not... you need to bleed it.
Assuming you have Yamaha's and Seastar steering.
Check out pages 64 and 65 for details. http://ww2.seastarsteering.com/PDFs/296221-E.pdf
If that link doesn't work, go here - http://ww2.seastarsteering.com/SITE_MAP/s_map.htm click on "Seastar installation books", (left side, near bottom)... then click on the first file, at the top of the list, (296221).
First... there's a knurled adjustment knob, on the outboard's tilt tube, (item 16). The knob should have a small locking screw. Older Seastar models were metal and had an alllen head screw... newer models are plastic and have either a slotted or Phillips screw. Anyway... loosen the screw and turn the knob counter-clockwise to take out any slack. You should be able to turn it by hand. If it's jammed, use channel locks... but be careful not to over tighten it... you just want to take out play. Also... having someone move the steering wheel back and forth, while your adjusting the knob, helps to take out the slack.
And... check out items 6 and 7 on page 65, slide follower and bushing. If either of those are worn or damaged, you'll get lots of play.
If that doesn't help... again, have someone move the wheel back and forth. Closely watch your steering cylinder and ram to see if it moves as soon as the steering wheel does. If not... you need to bleed it.
catch22
Well-Known Member
You're welcome.
I think I should re-word this...
A little free play in the wheel is ok. Say an inch, before the ram starts moving... but 2 inch's is too much.
catch22 said:Closely watch your steering cylinder and ram to see if it moves as soon as the steering wheel does. If not... you need to bleed it.
I think I should re-word this...
A little free play in the wheel is ok. Say an inch, before the ram starts moving... but 2 inch's is too much.
gradytom
Well-Known Member
I have a 98 Islander w/Seastar.
Over the years the steering has gotten a little sloppy so I
purchased Seastar hydr. fluid and downloaded the fill/ bleed
info from Seastar.
I have never noticed a hydrolic leak anywhere.
I started filling the resevoir at the helm and noticed some air bubbles, so I
turned the wheel full left/right and more air bubbled out.
Put the fill cap back on and everything has been great, better
than when I got the boat.
My point is that the fill resevoir is higher than the ram, so it seemed to have self- bled as I refilled. I didn't need to bleed it at the ram.
Super easy.
Over the years the steering has gotten a little sloppy so I
purchased Seastar hydr. fluid and downloaded the fill/ bleed
info from Seastar.
I have never noticed a hydrolic leak anywhere.
I started filling the resevoir at the helm and noticed some air bubbles, so I
turned the wheel full left/right and more air bubbled out.
Put the fill cap back on and everything has been great, better
than when I got the boat.
My point is that the fill resevoir is higher than the ram, so it seemed to have self- bled as I refilled. I didn't need to bleed it at the ram.
Super easy.
Curmudgeon
Well-Known Member
Bleed the cylinder (also higher than the tubing in the bilge) and it should just about turn itself ... :lol:
Catch22....rotated the adjusting nut about 3/4 turn and took out about 1 inch of play. Thanks for the tip....
Will now bleed the cylinder and check again......
Will now bleed the cylinder and check again......
catch22
Well-Known Member
SilverLining said:Catch22....rotated the adjusting nut about 3/4 turn and took out about 1 inch of play. Thanks for the tip....
Will now bleed the cylinder and check again......
You're welcome.
seabob4
Well-Known Member
BTW, Seastar Cylinders still have the knurled fitting on the starboard side with the allen head tightening bolt...there never has been a change...
catch22
Well-Known Member
seabob4 said:BTW, Seastar Cylinders still have the knurled fitting on the starboard side with the allen head tightening bolt...there never has been a change...
Did an install last year.... new helm and a HC-5345 cylinder. Adjustment nut was plastic, (unlike older metal one's)... with a Phillips head locking screw.
I'd consider that a "change".
My 2000 272 Sailfish has a black plastic adjusting nut with a phillips head locking screw........