terrible time installing fuel sender

[boslaw]

I have had a terrible time installing a replacement fuel sender (should have been a simple job). The previous owner had installed an ISSPRO ultimate sender. These units have a large hat that requires extra long screws. I didn't realize this before I tried to install the new WEMA sender. The screws were about 1 inch too long. One screw head broke off while tightening. I then ordered an adapter and screws from WEMA. Unfortunately, the adapter comes with metric screws and my boat requires SAE screws. Of course, this all happened over 3 separate trips to the boat to try and fix. Now, I'm off to find shorter SAE screws that match the threads on the boat. What to do about the broken screw? I tried turning it back out with a pair of locking pliers - the rest of the screw broke off flush with the tank. I can't drill it out for fear of creating sparks and burning up my boat. Maybe at the end of the season I'll be able to drain the tank and try again. Alternately, I may try to pry out the screw receiver (it's embedded in the plastic tank). Maybe I can pry that out and replace with a new receiver (if I can find one). On the other hand, maybe I'll just put some 4200 around that screw and hang on until winter.

 

[no problem]

My tank had a broken screw that was crooked and stopped the old sender from sealing and an assortment of odd wood screws barely holding the old sender in. I used the wema adapter and screws but had to airdrill out the aluminum tank holes one size larger to accomidate the larger wema screws. Then use an air die grinder with a scotchbrite type 2" disc to remove the oxidation from the top of the tank. The whole time I had stuffed a large rag into the hole and held it against the top of the opening to shield any debris or sparks (thankfully there were no sparks). I can't even describe how i held the adapter inside the tank while starting the screws from the top. I think this was the closest I ever got to getting a "darwin award". http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Darwin_award This one may be left to a pro but I would have to inspect the work in progress. I wouldn't trust someonew not to cut corners. Heres the wema adapter I used to repair my oversized jacked-up holes in my tanks(both of them). I feel your pain, good luck! http://www.wemausa.com/tank_sensors/det ... ensors.htm

 

[bhemi]

Drill and tap

Stuff a wet rag in the hole and work in a well ventilated area. Use a battery powered drill (no sparks from motor).

I broke 3 screws getting my senders out. I just turned the new senders a few degrees off the original holes and marked the spots for the new holes.
I slowly drilled out the new holes while keeping my shop vac on the spots to suck up most of the chips. Tapped new holes and installed senders with screws included. The tanks are easy to drill and tap. The old screws are never coming out and are completely sealed.

 

[grady23]

"NO sparks from a battery powered drill " WHAT??? If the motor has exposed brushes --- It WILL CREATE SPARKS.
This why people who buy automotive starters for boat end up having explosions where normally they wouldn't.

 

[boslaw]

yeah, I was wondering about the no sparks thing. Also, you can't tap a plastic tank. I'm going to have to come up with some kind of hack until I can do this in my yard over the winter

 

[cdwood]

Any drilling/grinding to a tank with fuel or fumes is a recipie for disaster.

If you can't do it right don't do it.

 

[boslaw]

tried backing out with a screw extractor kit. Tried several sizes but the broken screw wouldn't budge. I bought shorter screws for the new wema sender and put the sender on with only 4 screws (left the broken one in). I think the rubber washer will be tight enough for the season but in the fall I'll try to either drill the screw straight through, or spend more time trying to back it out.

 

[Seahunter]

yeah, I was wondering about the no sparks thing. Also, you can't tap a plastic tank. I'm going to have to come up with some kind of hack until I can do this in my yard over the winter

Easy enough to install jack nuts or thin nut is a plastic tank. Either can be installed with common hand tools.

Plastic doesn't spark and the risk of explosion from the arcing off the brushes inside an electrical device when used in an open air environment is greatly over hyped. Gasoline itself is not flammable and the concentration of fumes required to cause an explosion is restricted to a very small window of 1.4% - 7.6% by volume.

I’m not advocating playing with gasoline tanks in your spare time but it’s nowhere close to the instant death most would like you to believe.

 

[bhemi]

My 18 volt drill has a solid housing not like a 110 volt drill that has vents. I took every precaution including emptying the tank and letting it sit open with the senders out for a couple of days. There were no fumes around but I still stuck a wet rag in the hole but frankly I was more worried about dropping crud in than an explosion.

 

[Grog]

Drills have DC motors with brishes, there are SPARKS! Even if you can't see them, they're there in the housing (a marine starter still makes sparks, the solenoid is just less likely to jam). You aren't going to make the engine intrinsically safe.

Air powered drill and 50' of hose is safe.

You have a plastic tank?

 

[boslaw]

plastic tank, metal screws & drill bits. That's where I'd think the spark would be caused. I'll give it another try in the winter in my yard. At least there if it catches fire I won't be worried about sinking.