The most expensive fishing trip - 94 Marlin

surfgator

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Location
Satellite Beach, FL
Model
Marlin
What started as a good day of fishing, 16 miles offshore quickly turned into a near disaster and kicked off 3 months of work. We took on water while backing over a reef, filled the bilge, rear pump failed and the front was unable to keep up. Not sure at the time what was going on, tried to get on plane with no success, bailing did nothing and we started in at 8 knots full throttle, but stable. Sea cocks were closed, everything was checked and looked fine until we saw the rear access panel in front of the engines was missing and under water. We didn't have anything to cover it.

In hind sight, the entire issue was that access panel popped (was never screwed down) and the pitch of the boat at WOT was letting water in as fast as we could get it out. Had I leveled out, the bailing would of made progress. But you have to decide in the open ocean, do you stop and guess or just get close to land as quick as possible not knowing if the hull is compromised, etc.

Around 6 miles out Coast Guard boarded with a pump and it made no difference. Again in hind sight, I know why, but not at the time. They setup an emergency haul out in port and we made our way in still at 8 knots. A half mile from the marina, a second team boarded the boat with a second pump and it also made no difference. At that time, the port motor sputtered to a stop. I assumed it went under and took on water as we were quite low.

Finally at the dock, to reach the forklift, I had to back in on one engine, with a side wind, fuel dock on one side and charter boat on the other side of a 12' wide entrance. This was not fun and after bouncing off a piling, somehow missing everything else, we got in to the forklift and they pulled us up.

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Eventually as it drained, we were dry docked, relieved, but now the fork lift arms were too tall to transfer to my trailer. So I had to jack up the bunks 6" so they could get it on. And the missing rear deck hatch was found at the bottom of the bilge!

Now many people assumed we had scupper issues, transom problems, etc. So I inspected EVERYTHING. Scuppers were shot but leaking very minimal amounts. The cap had slightly separated on both stern ends from the hull, but all of it was still well above water. Transom - replaced when re-powered in 2022, was solid. While many things didn't look good, a thorough inspection of the hull, every thru hull, and every hose pointed to the rear hatch coming off.

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Given the state of the hoses, all scupper drains, hoses, and ports were replaced. Replaced the single rear 1500GPH bilge with dual 2000GPH, each on new independent float switches, and a high water alarm. All new wiring. Also found two thru hulls above the trim tabs I honestly had never seen before, and don't know what purpose they serve, but they were all replaced with new hoses and thru hulls. Also replaced all bait well hoses and thru hulls with stainless. The caps were 5200'd very well and screwed down every 4".

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Now for the port engine. I feared the worst, but come to find out the timing belt snapped, presumably under the stress. Its only had 750 hours on it, but it hadn't been changed in 7 years, so over the 5 year recommendation. Changed the belt, did a full 100 hour service and no dice. No start and weird compression. Pulled the head and found two bent valves. Replaced the valves, all gaskets and all internal zincs. Cleaned it good and it runs!

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Final toll on flooded equipment: Trim tab controller shorted, both rear bait pumps shorted. Inside water pressure pump shorted. Plumbing replacement is in progress, but that is all secondary stuff.

While at it, decided to do a full 4 battery rewiring, new switches, all new cables, circuit breakers etc.

Splashed it finally after 3 months, and its running well! A few more things to tidy up and it'll be better than ever.

Thought it was a good time to post the progress pictures since its seaworthy again.
 
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Yikes!

Question: do you think the access panel was not screwed down at the time the transom was replaced?
 
You did well making it back to base. I'm glad to hear the Coast Guard came to help. Having them onsite lowers everyones stress level. You said the suspect hatch cover wound up in the bilge. I take it then, it must be a rectangular one to allow it to get into the bilge?? Could you show us a picture of that culprit so we can avoid that style or at least put a lanyard on it, if we have one, so it can't get lost?
 
Yikes!

Question: do you think the access panel was not screwed down at the time the transom was replaced?
Yes that is exactly it. The fibreglass guy put it back in there without screws and I even noticed it was not screwed down. But it fit snugly, and I didnt think it was a big deal. We had been out countless times, offshore 6 times as far as 40 miles up to 4-6' seas. Very minimal water in the bilge never even kicked the pump on. So it was my mistake to not screw it down, but you get lucky 6 times and then.....
 
You did well making it back to base. I'm glad to hear the Coast Guard came to help. Having them onsite lowers everyones stress level. You said the suspect hatch cover wound up in the bilge. I take it then, it must be a rectangular one to allow it to get into the bilge?? Could you show us a picture of that culprit so we can avoid that style or at least put a lanyard on it, if we have one, so it can't get lost?
Thanks. Yes the rectangular one. I had to run out and grab some pics. Ironically I have 100 pictures of everything but that. I think the positioning of the hydraulic steering lines keep it down which is probably why I got away with it so long. It will be screwed down when I'm done sealing the transducer and other random hole that was there when I got it. Those were sealed when this happened, but I added those ultrasonic anti-fouling devices to each motor and decided to run the cables in an existing hole, so I need to reseal them.


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I'm always amazed at these "blame game" stories. What was the lesson learned?

A bilge pump isn't going to save your boat if you are taking on that much water. The forward bilge is connected with a small diameter hose which may be plugged at the factory to isolate the compartments. A "crash pump" with is common on large inboard boats would help but GW's don't have them. By the time you discover you are sinking it's too late! You knew the hatch cover wasn't screwed down and ignored it.

There are no excuses for safety items. Captain is responsible. Fortunately no one was hurt.
 
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I'm always amazed at these "blame game" stories. What was the lesson learned?

A bilge pump isn't going to save your boat if you are taking on that much water. The forward bilge is connected with a small diameter hose which may be plugged at the factory to isolate the compartments. A "crash pump" with is common on large inboard boats would help but GW's don't have them. By the time you discover you are sinking it's too late! You knew the hatch cover wasn't screwed down and ignored it.

There are no excuses for safety items. Captain is responsible. Fortunately no one was hurt.
At the end of the day you are correct captain is responsible. But if you are saying I am blaming anyone or anything you are incorrect. I described what happened and learned the lesson. I never blamed the transom guy, nor the fact that the rear failed and I am fully aware the front can never keep up. Just stated what happened. Did I or most people know this MUST be screwed down? Maybe I am the only one. No blame here other than a hard lesson in how things work. The extra bilge and alarm I added was to make it safer. Do I feel its bullet proof? never. But yeah, anything and everything can go wrong, I'm trying to be as prepared as I can and tell the story.
 
GW and other small boat hulls "hide" the accumulation of water in the bilge under the deck. When the boat starts to handle improperly you are already in big trouble. I have bilge pump lights on the dash to indicate the pumps are operating. Bilge is usually very dry but I do watch them. I also added a "high water" bilge alarm with a big bell. If I get more than the usual water in the bilge it alerts me something is going on.

Quality workmanship is the problem anymore. I call them 'FIT's - "Failure's Induced by Technician". Anytime someone touches my car, my boat, my home, you name it something comes back broken or dirty! When your life or your family member's depends on their work it's worth a belt-and suspenders double-check. Stay safe!
 
It should be screwed AND sealed with silicone.
And get rid of that pop out deck plate. It will do exactly the same thing that the hatch did. If you get swamped and the deck plate pops, you are done.

That "motor well" always gets water on it. its 2" above the waterline. if things are not sealed, you will constantly have drips into the bilge and the bilge pump will be running often.
That area should be tighter than a duck's ass.
 
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On a previously owned Mako 25 footer, I had that same type of deck panel with 2 access plates. I left the screws out for 5 years without a problem. I will admit that it sort of stuck in the opening and the rigging probably did lean on it but it was such a pain to get to the bilge equipment especially some of the seacocks using only the round access plates. When I sold the boat I did screw the deck panel in but did not recaulk.