that's is such a great idea , could store all my Halibut anchor gear down there. Been looking for a spot for another Battery
Then I cut a big hole in the deck
- Thread starter PNW_Drifter
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You might disappointed with how much space your auxiliary fuel tank is taking up. The water tank is small, fuel tank will likely fill the entire cavity.
Hey Fellas,
On my 226, I converted that space to accommodate extra gear, and it’s made a huge improvement on how I use my boat. I discovered the space when I was re powering and replacing the aft fuel tank. I wondered what was under the forward deck panel? Nothing! The boat was pre-rigged for a twin outboard setup, but only ended up with the single. All I did was sand the rough fiberglass ends of the mat, paint it with white bilge coat, clear the limber holes for drainage, lay down some plastic deck mat 1x1 tiles, and I had instant storage. I keep the pop out deck plate towards the stern and use that as a grab handle and pull the whole panel up for access, or all the way out when needed. Also, I moved the two cross members. One a few inches forward, one a bit aft in order to open the space a bit... I keep an extra anchor and line, a boarding/swim ladder, tube and tow line, a roll up Zodiac tender, paddles and foot pump, whatever. Keep in mind, it’s not a completely dry space. After a heavy rain, or a wash down, I have a pump bailer to get the accumulated water out. And I check the limber holes regularly, so most of it drains into the aft bilge where I can use the electric pump to drain the rest.
It’s a game changer for the boat, and for my family. It allows us way more space to enjoy our time on the boat. I’d imagine one could turn it into a fish/ice box pretty easily, too.
On my 226, I converted that space to accommodate extra gear, and it’s made a huge improvement on how I use my boat. I discovered the space when I was re powering and replacing the aft fuel tank. I wondered what was under the forward deck panel? Nothing! The boat was pre-rigged for a twin outboard setup, but only ended up with the single. All I did was sand the rough fiberglass ends of the mat, paint it with white bilge coat, clear the limber holes for drainage, lay down some plastic deck mat 1x1 tiles, and I had instant storage. I keep the pop out deck plate towards the stern and use that as a grab handle and pull the whole panel up for access, or all the way out when needed. Also, I moved the two cross members. One a few inches forward, one a bit aft in order to open the space a bit... I keep an extra anchor and line, a boarding/swim ladder, tube and tow line, a roll up Zodiac tender, paddles and foot pump, whatever. Keep in mind, it’s not a completely dry space. After a heavy rain, or a wash down, I have a pump bailer to get the accumulated water out. And I check the limber holes regularly, so most of it drains into the aft bilge where I can use the electric pump to drain the rest.
It’s a game changer for the boat, and for my family. It allows us way more space to enjoy our time on the boat. I’d imagine one could turn it into a fish/ice box pretty easily, too.
Drifter- looks amazing! I’ve had this on my list to do since I bought my 228 10+ years ago. Any chance you still have your cutout dimensions and the distance between underside support bars? I’m going to ask a local fabricator what the cost would be for them to create a flush mount hatch similar to your dimensions. I figure I can pull the cover up and drop it off vs dragging the whole boat to thier shop if their price is right. Let me know if you still have the dimensions when you have a few mins.
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Well the cut out dimensions will vary by how ever big you want really. My hatch frame is 24x16". I can give you a template, but it is slightly smaller. but I do remember the distance between the supports Grady puts in is 27". I centered my 24" long hatch between that and the lower edge is even with the water tank so most of the space is forward. Pulling your hatch will tell you so much. If I did it like you're going to do, I may go bigger and delete the front pie plate. Because the fiberglass shop can add strength.
Mines mounted dead center to the front Grady "hatch/panel".
Here's my exact Hatch: DPI Flush mount series.
Outside Dimensions 16 3/4" (426mm) x 24 3/4" (628mm)
Inside Dimensions 13 1/4" (377mm) x 21 1/4" (540mm)
Cut-out Dimensions 15 1/8" (384mm) x 23 1/8" (587mm)
Template
Seafarer_Bob
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I also bought the 16" x 24" DPI hatch and just getting ready to break out the saw... unfortunately I pulled my deck panel and my lateral supports are much closer together than PNY's. I could probably squeeze it in between using a router but it would then the water tank would start to interfere.
I'm already committed so I'm going to cut through the forward support brace and reinforce with some plywood and fiberglass later if needed.
My original thought was to make a flush hatch with a gutter underneath so I'll save the cutout and maybe use it as the hatch lid so but that seems like a lot of work and possibly beyond my fiberglass skills.
I'm already committed so I'm going to cut through the forward support brace and reinforce with some plywood and fiberglass later if needed.
My original thought was to make a flush hatch with a gutter underneath so I'll save the cutout and maybe use it as the hatch lid so but that seems like a lot of work and possibly beyond my fiberglass skills.
I am in the process of gearing up to cut a big hole in my deck too. Glad to see a few of you guys have done this before. Such wasted space under there! My plan is to install three batteries and a charger under there.
Looks great, you did a nice job! Your photos are helpful. Looks like I am going to have to cut then make a new stringer that is underneath.
I looked high and low for a hatch that would be the size I need, about 28" x 14" internal dimensions. Color is an issue as we all know, but I also didn't want any flex.
The size I need is larger than the standard ones I’ve found. Went with your backup plan B right from the gate. I ordered the deck hatch almost two weeks ago from Boat Outfitters. It should be delivered next week I'm figuring. Mine came in at just under $400. Seafoam color with the stiffener. It won't match exactly, I just hope that it does not stand out.
Looks great, you did a nice job! Your photos are helpful. Looks like I am going to have to cut then make a new stringer that is underneath.
I looked high and low for a hatch that would be the size I need, about 28" x 14" internal dimensions. Color is an issue as we all know, but I also didn't want any flex.
The size I need is larger than the standard ones I’ve found. Went with your backup plan B right from the gate. I ordered the deck hatch almost two weeks ago from Boat Outfitters. It should be delivered next week I'm figuring. Mine came in at just under $400. Seafoam color with the stiffener. It won't match exactly, I just hope that it does not stand out.
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Great Post pics once you get it. I've just loved my new storage this season. Don't know how I ever did with out it. My stern anchor BBQ, life raft, buckets etc. Bigger would be even better.
I've wanted to do this but can't bring my self to do it. My fuel tank is in the forward hold.
If I was content on keeping my boat I would make drain along rim of deck and my the entire panel hinged and latched.
I only plan to keep the boat till the spring so I dont want to invest the time.
If I was content on keeping my boat I would make drain along rim of deck and my the entire panel hinged and latched.
I only plan to keep the boat till the spring so I dont want to invest the time.
Well I did it! The only thing I have to say is why didn't I do this sooner!
It was not bad at all down there after removing the deck plate. Did not take long to clean it up nice. I built a shelf to hold three batteries to put under there. I overkilled it as usual. 2" x 3" aluminum tube with a 3/4" Starboard mounting plate. If I were using it for storage I could have easily made it longer and with hold-downs for whatever I wanted to store in there. It would never touch water other than what might drip in when cleaning the deck.
The job itself went smoothly, no complications. Everything is securely mounted. I finished up the wiring yesterday. Plan is I will neaten the wiring up, and caulk the hatch and deck plate this week.
I figured that since I am this deep I might as well remove the deck plate over the gas tank and clean everything down there too. The caulking job will look nicer if I do both plates at once.
Overall I am very happy with the way it came out. After putting longer screws into the hatch stringer there is no 'spongy' feel at all. Solid as a rock.
It was not bad at all down there after removing the deck plate. Did not take long to clean it up nice. I built a shelf to hold three batteries to put under there. I overkilled it as usual. 2" x 3" aluminum tube with a 3/4" Starboard mounting plate. If I were using it for storage I could have easily made it longer and with hold-downs for whatever I wanted to store in there. It would never touch water other than what might drip in when cleaning the deck.
The job itself went smoothly, no complications. Everything is securely mounted. I finished up the wiring yesterday. Plan is I will neaten the wiring up, and caulk the hatch and deck plate this week.
I figured that since I am this deep I might as well remove the deck plate over the gas tank and clean everything down there too. The caulking job will look nicer if I do both plates at once.
Overall I am very happy with the way it came out. After putting longer screws into the hatch stringer there is no 'spongy' feel at all. Solid as a rock.
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Looks great. I may have to upgrade to that hatch someday. Just loving my storage too. I keep it full of important stuff that change by what kind of boat trip I'm doing. Thanks for posting.