Thing's to check on a "new" used Grady

[crazygrady]

I just bought a1995 208 Adventure with a 1995 Yamaha 200 HP with 125 hours. The carbs. have been rebuilt along gas tank cleaned. I'm going to change the lower unit oil and replace the water pump and spark plugs.I'm sure there are many other preventive maintainence steps I should perform. What else do you guys suggest that I do so that I can have an enjoyable trouble free experience with my first Grady?
Thanks.

 

[BobP]

You forgot the most important system on your 2 stroke, the engine oiling system.

I suggest you dump the oil tanks - hand clean them out, get the sludge and water out, and refill with known brand oil, replace the filter on the boat's oil tank. I presume the 1995 is oil injection system type.

Make sure all the outlet lines from the oil pump are moving oil.
Replace the anodes. If you don't have a racor (or equal) water seperating gas filter, add one.

Use a fuel conditioner like startron or Stabil marine, and ringfree or equal, one or all three.

 

[gradyfish22]

Excellent advice from Bob above!!

Also, go through basic things many overlook, check your running lights make sure you do not need bulbs, check the batteries to make sure they hold a charge. If your unsure of how old they are, might be worth considering new ones so they do not crap out half way through the season. Make sure your vhf works as well. Greese all fittings on the engine and trim unit, once it's in the water it is hard to do. Make sure your windsheild wiper works. If you have canvas's, check for rips, lube all zippers so they slide well and clean the clear plastic with proper cleaners...not windex or a household cleaner, but a marine one made to protect and wax the plastic and keep it protected from the salt.

I agree 100% with bobP, use a fuel addative, I have used startron for years and have had no fuel issues. A 10micron filter from Yamaha or Racor is the way to go, do not use a no name west marine brand, had them one year on the other boat and they had issues. Ringfree is also well worth it, yes it is expensive, but it does work and keep the engines mechanicals in good order.
Also, always keep a spare gallon of oil onboard, it goes fast when your having fun and you can never be too cautious, having it onboard can save you a costly tow, or extensive damage to the engine. Always keep it above 1/2 is my advice, or even 2/3 if possible.

Enjoy the new boat!!!

 

[BobP]

Gradyfish22 filled it out the list-

I forgot, the deck plate o rings, and fuel fill cap o ring.

Replace them, clean the o ring groove on both sides before placing new o ring.

You want the fuel tank top dry and no water down the fuel fill line.

I presume the oil tank has no remote fill, if it does, replace the o ring there too.

Make sure your bilge pump works automatically.

I don't know the type of drain plug you have in your model, I had the brass sleeve and cheap twist lock brass/rubber expansion plug, that corroded, stripped out and almost sank the boat at the dock. I hope Grady went to the threaded bronze plug.

The 20 foot Grady walkaround, and your properly sized motor combo, set the standard for all others to follow (copy), they all have tried, none succeeded as the Grady. The 20 ft Grady reminds me of the legendary 3 series BMW, evreyone wants to copy, no one has beat it.

It's so much boat for just 20 foot, had one myself for 5 yrs or so, when it was called a 204C. Had a full bimini made, what a break from the open 20 ft Mako before it.

Good luck!

 

[dlevitt]

A couple of other things to look at are the plastic through hull fittings as well as the plastic hoses. As these boats age, the through hulls can crack and let water into the bilge. Also, the hoses, especially if they are the cheap ribbed plastic ones will crack with age. Especially check these connected to your bilge pumps.

 

[seasick]

Enough said about the motor. You should have already had the hull inspected for moisture, if not do so especially the transom which has a history of issues.
Inspect and replace if necessary the fuel lines including the fill and vent.
The fuel tank may be aluminum or poly. If aluminum, check for internal corrosion. ( a pain but doable through the sender access hole)
Inspect throttle and shift cables, same for steering cable.
Check thru hull, thru hull hoses and clamps. Inspect scupper hoses and clamps.
Take a look at the fues panel under the dash. Clean and seal as needed.
Clean and grease the seat posts and seat slides.
test the bilge pump and float switch. And as mentioned, check the running lights, horn and wiper. I think your cabin door is teak. if so, clean and treat all wood trim. As mentioned, clean and treat canvas and Issenglass.

Now go have fun.

 

[crazygrady]

Thank's guys. As I said in my post, I was sure there were many things for
me to do, and man was I right. Gotta love it!! Thanks for all the input, I have some busy weekends ahead.

 

[JUST-IN-TIME]

http://66.221.91.35/TechPhotos/Yamaha%2 ... Models.pdf

read over this please

 

[crazygrady]

This is great. Tihis is really helpful.
Thanks.