Through hull fittings.
- Thread starter jmbadge
- Start date
Do a search here on thru hulls.There is a LOT of information on that. As far as detaching plastic thru hulls, I had luck with a dremel and cut wheel; cut just inside the face of the thru hull from the outside of the boat. The thru hull will easily come apart without having to mess with unscrewing the nut off the inside. Don't cut too deep that you hit fiberglass.jmbadge said:
All of mine unscrewed relatively easily. On a Sailfish most are easy to get to, doing the fish-box hoses was a PIA.
Here's some pics when I did my scuppers and deck drains with SS. Southco deck drains, and Attwood flapper through hulls.
One thing- I used the Southco with the grid top, but if you fish a lot and have a lot of blood on the deck they clog pretty easy. We end up with a lot of water on the deck, and a lot of blood and krill from tuna puking up feed. I ended up drilling out larger holes in the drains. If I was to do it again I would take the grid drains to a machine shop and have them bore them out so there was no grid at all. They also create an airlock sometimes, and I find them a PITA. The boring out larger holes helps, and for normal water they might be fine.
Here's the old ones...
I forgot to take pictures from the inside removing the flanges, but here they are out, and inspecting to make sure there was no water intrusion.
I found that the easiest way to access everything was to remove the entire back portion with the access panels. It doesn't take that long to do, and makes re-wiring, replacing scuppers, bilge pumps, etc. a lot easier.
I fitted the scuppers, used 5200 to seal internally, then installed with new hose.
One other thing that I had a problem with was that the Southco deck drain flanges were not quite big enough for the holes in the deck. I ended up fabricating some very thing, like 1/8" thick washers out of a flexible cutting board to hold the drains in. Sorry, but no pics of that, but something to keep in mind.
Here is the finished product.
It is hard to see in these pics, but I previously re-wired the back end of this boat with new BEP switches, VSR's, and new buss bars, etc. Also replaced the old 3 way live well/wash down with independent live well pump and wash down pump.
Looks like sort of a mess, but once all together it was pretty clean.
One thing- I used the Southco with the grid top, but if you fish a lot and have a lot of blood on the deck they clog pretty easy. We end up with a lot of water on the deck, and a lot of blood and krill from tuna puking up feed. I ended up drilling out larger holes in the drains. If I was to do it again I would take the grid drains to a machine shop and have them bore them out so there was no grid at all. They also create an airlock sometimes, and I find them a PITA. The boring out larger holes helps, and for normal water they might be fine.
Here's the old ones...
I forgot to take pictures from the inside removing the flanges, but here they are out, and inspecting to make sure there was no water intrusion.
I found that the easiest way to access everything was to remove the entire back portion with the access panels. It doesn't take that long to do, and makes re-wiring, replacing scuppers, bilge pumps, etc. a lot easier.
I fitted the scuppers, used 5200 to seal internally, then installed with new hose.
One other thing that I had a problem with was that the Southco deck drain flanges were not quite big enough for the holes in the deck. I ended up fabricating some very thing, like 1/8" thick washers out of a flexible cutting board to hold the drains in. Sorry, but no pics of that, but something to keep in mind.
Here is the finished product.
It is hard to see in these pics, but I previously re-wired the back end of this boat with new BEP switches, VSR's, and new buss bars, etc. Also replaced the old 3 way live well/wash down with independent live well pump and wash down pump.
Looks like sort of a mess, but once all together it was pretty clean.
The only thing I'd add to that is when you remove your old scuppers and thru-hulls, dry out the wood core in the transom or even the fiberglass on side drains and epoxy the hole very well to prevent any further water penetration, then 5200 the rest into place. Also use the correct drain hose, not the cheap clear plastic when it comes to your scuppers.