Thru Hull leaking even though it is closed. Ideas?

[wrobinson]

I went to clean my strainer basket on my a/c unit yesterday and noticed water was flowing even though the handle on the thru hull was closed. (I double checked it was all the way closed.) Is there a packing nut or something I can tighten. It's not much water but it should be no water.

Anybody else had this?

 

[fishingFINattic]

I assume that you mean the valve threaded onto the thru hull is leaking when fully closed -
That is am important valve, and you may want to replace it if it leaking.
Tim

 

[Tuna Man]

I've installed and worked with thousands of ball valves in my life (Heating/Plumbing business). Most likely the ball is not closing all the way. There is really no way to repair them. While the packing may have failed, but that would not allow water to leak through the ball. The ball may be corroded and no longer makes a good seal (we don't see salt water too often in heating systems, so I'm not sure).

I would not attempt the repair, I would replace the valve immediately. I do not recommend attempting this repair with the boat in the water, but we have used this tool many times:
http://www.brenelle.com/index.php?type=how#sec2

My first choice would be to pull the boat and do this repair on land, if the thru-hull nipple snaps the results could be catastrophic!

 

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

Tuna man, i have a question. What's the purpose of the jet swet if you have to close the main water? I don't get it.

 

[gradyfish22]

Since the valve is at the end of the line, that tool might not work well in this instance. Boat must be taken out of the water to do this job and needs to be attended to asap, it will only get worse over time. As stated above, from constant use the ball itself likely wore down a little and corrosion likely did not help either, and the packing might have worn a little as well, and not the ball does not seal well. It is not worth repairing since you will need to take it all apart and likely out to work on anyways, not something I would take a chance on when it could sink the boat, buy a new one and replace it the right way.

 

[Tuna Man]

GIORGOS,
A few "rules" when using the JetSweat tool:
1. Both the new and the old ball vlaves must be 'full port' or the jetsweat tool will not fit through the ball.
2. Depending on the application, you must turn off the pump or water shutoff that feeds the valve you are trying to replace.
3. Keep in mind I would never chance it with a boat thru hull (while in the water), but in other applications the jet sweat has to be quickly shoved through the just opened old valve and immediately expanded. Once the tool has been expanded the water stops and you then unscrew (or "unsolder if it is a copper pipe, like your house) the old valve and lift it over the top of the handle on the jet sweat.
4. Once the old valve is removed you apply thread sealant ot teflon tape on the male threads of the actual thru hull nipple.
5. Next the new valve is threaded on and tightened (or soldered), not it must be in the open postion. Now you must swiftly collapse the jet sweat and pull it out and quickly shut the new valve. You now have a brand new isolation valve and can do the rest of the job at your own pace.

Hope this makes a little sense. For the record, I have used a jet sweat with up to three or four pounds of pressure successfully. On the other hand I have had a three inch jet sweat shoot out of a pipe like a torpedo the first time I used one (thankfully I was not in the path).

 

[BobP]

Gents, to get through the season if he doesn't want to pull the boat, just add another valve in series with first one, 6 inches or so away, get two male threaded to hose fittings and buy the exact replacement valve needed.

Use the new valve for closing, leave the old valve open.

Then come end of season, make the swap.

Only cost a few extra bucks now for the clamps, hose, and hose nipples, no need to pull boat if that's a problem.

I've seen the ball on these valves pit, time for new ones.

 

[Grog]

I don't know about the quick temp solution. Are you sure it's a Brass valve? Is it a seacock or threaded valve? How old? I'd just bit the bullet and replace it now. From vibration the stem nut may loosen and can be tightened but the water isn't coming from the stem. I've never seen a SS ball get so bad it would not hold back twenty some inches of water pressure. The packing is shot and/or the wrong valve was installed.

 

[wrobinson]

It's the same type of valve that comes standard on the 33 Expresses. I had a thought that it might not be the valve leaking it could be water draining down from the a/c hoses when I take the strainer cap off.

Next time I am down I'll take the a/c hose loose and see if I still have any flow. If I do I'll pull the boat out and switch out the valve.

 

[BobP]

If it's backfeeding from the A/C heat exchanger, it ought to stop by itself when emptied

I bet it is. It's all supposed to be routed up hill from the valve - as lowest point.

 

[jenniferhoops]

Hello friends,

I just want to say Thanks. I have also the same leakage problem but try and thinking about it. I have searched about it on internet and after reading this thread i have fixed leakage with your help.

Thanks again.