So I am new to winterizing my Yamaha OX66 to 250 hp and I have been getting conflicting information on the web. specifically some guys say it is a good idea to fog the engine while others are strictly opposed to it. So I am wondering what do you folks recommend first on that engine I do not see a visible carburetor to spray fogging oil and secondly is there a different location to fog. Any input would be appreciated.
To fog or not to fog OX66 250hp
- Thread starter cobrapowersys
- Start date
I used to have twin OX66 200HP motors (which were fantastic) and routinely fogged them for the winter. Took off the black air intake plenum which exposed the throttle plates. Careful when removing the screws that hold on the air intake. Run the engine at slightly above idle and spray in fogging oil to each of the air intakes. I used the plastic tube on the fogging oil to go through the small hole on the throttle plate. Spray 5 sec or so in each intake, then put it at idle. Get good smoke out the exhaust and then really hit it with oil until it quits- you're done. Some people remove each plug and squirt in more oil but based on the smoke I got in the spring, lots of oil was protecting the engine. Why would anyone think that fogging an engine would not be a good thing?
When you say really hit it until it quits do you spray for 5 seconds in each port and then choose one of the ports to spray longer until it stalls or do you evenly spray in each port until you see it stall. And I remember to years ago my boat mechanic definitely fogged my engine but on T HT there are a number of guys that are extremely against fogging that engine as they claim the manufacturer does not recommend doing so. personally I am definitely leaning towards fogging it for the winter but I don't want to do anything that will harm it as she is a 2001 and is not a newbie. She runs suberbly and I don't want to mess that up
Mine were 2001 models as well. When you idle it down after seeing the smoke coming on, it doesn't take much to make it stall, so I sprayed each port quickly (maybe 2 sec squirts) side to side, top to bottom, it would slow down and I would spray again in the same pattern. This usually caused it to quit.
I did it this way for the 10 years I owned the boat and they ran pefectly every year. I think some on THT worry about the O2 sensor fouling from the oil but I never had the problem. They are amazing- after sitting for the winter with a good amount of fogging oil, they would fire up almost immediately and run nice and smooth. Lots of smoke but they ran great. The smoke would die down after 5 min or so and they were ready to go.
I did it this way for the 10 years I owned the boat and they ran pefectly every year. I think some on THT worry about the O2 sensor fouling from the oil but I never had the problem. They are amazing- after sitting for the winter with a good amount of fogging oil, they would fire up almost immediately and run nice and smooth. Lots of smoke but they ran great. The smoke would die down after 5 min or so and they were ready to go.
I don't spray into the throttle bodies. I remove the spark plugs and spray fogging oil into the cylinders. I then manually rotate the flywheel a turn or two to help coat the cylinder walls, screw the plugs back in and cover it up.
in through the plugs hole works to oil up the cylinders, but I like going into the air intake to get the fogging oil into the crankcase to keep all the (expensive) parts coated with an oil film over the winter.
Do you replace the plugs after you burn the fogging oil off in the spring? Is it a good idea to spray fogging oil in the intake as well as the cylinders through the plug holes?
I usually burn off the oil in the spring and then change the plugs after a few hours of running to ensure that all the oil fouling is finished. Can't hurt to oil thru the plugs holes as well as thru the intake. What's surprising is that the plugs really don't look that bad when they're changed and the engine never misses a beat. Amazing engines.
I bought this boat three years ago, and always had it winterized. I figured based on what I saw the guy doing that it was one of those things I could probably handle myself as I am a pretty handy guy. I never changed the plugs yet, never changed the batteries (but bought a good inboard charger), Never changed the impeller kit. And the list goes on. I know the engine is the most critical component so I want to make sure it stays in good shape. And if something should go wrong while underway, if I know the entire workings of the motor, I will be much better off. That said, is there anything else you would recommend doing on this motor on a semi regular basis to keep it in good shape? Thanks for the reply by the way. I bought fogging oil today...
Basically, your motor has been neglected for three years. At a minimum, you should have had it serviced after purchase since you couldn't know the condition of oil, plugs, filters etc.cobrapowersys said:
Do you change the lower unit oil every season? How about the water separator? Do you use ring free? If no to all, I wouldn't worry about what you should have been doing but rather how long till something fails.
I never changed the oil ,plugs ,filters ,separator . I did change the lower unit oil. I don't know what ring free is please explain and make any recommendations. I did have it checked out when I bought it by my marina and they said everything looked good compression and all. When I changed the lower unit oil this year it was very dirty indeed.
I used to fog my old OX66s (one at a time) by spraying the fogging oil in the throttle bodies (alternate a few seconds on each) while at a fast idle. Could never get the engines to stall out no matter how much oil I hit them with. So, I just got in the habit of tieing a string to the stop lanyard and when I felt they were good and loaded up I would just pull the string and kill the engine. Then I took out the plugs, shot a little oil into each cylinder, coated the plugs, reinstalled the plugs and hit the key for a second to distribute everything.
Those darn things started better the first time in the spring than they did for the entire rest of the season...
Those darn things started better the first time in the spring than they did for the entire rest of the season...
cobrapowersys said:
Ring Free is a Yamaha fuel treatment that helps reduce the buildup of carbon, especially on the rings. Many use it, some don't and the only thing that all parties agree is that it is expensive running about $35 a quart ( one quart will treat 320 gallons of fuel. I and the previous owner of the boat used it.) It cam also be used in a Shock Treatment mode where a larger concentration is used to clean up a dirty motor. I am not a big fan of those types of treatments and I think they should only be used when there is a problem.
I change plugs and the main water separator filter every year, after I run the motor first to burn off the fogging fluids. Plugs run about 3 bucks a piece for the standard OEM NKGs. The water separator filter ( Yami 10 micron) runs about $15 and should be changed every season or after about 100 running hours. You can get more or less use out of it depending on how clean or dirty your tank and fuel are. I change the motor mounted fuel cartridge filter every three seasons.
The lower unit should be drained at the end of the season especially if you sore your boat in a locale that freezes. The reason is that should the oil have been contaminated with water, you won't take the chance of that water freezing and doing damage. Water in the LU can also rust up the internal parts.
I know folks who never change the water pump and I know folks who change it every season. I change mine every 4 seasons or so and the old one look pretty good. A lot depends on whether you boat where sand and grit get sucked into the water inlets.
In addition to these routine items, there are service that should be done to check for VST contamination, oil linkage syncing, oil pump screen , and importantly, low pressure fuel pumps which seem to last 3 to 5 seasons.
Don't forget to check trim/tilt oil level and condition as well as grease the fittings on the motor. A service manual (OEM) is very helpful.
if the engine is going to be sitting a few months ...fog it fog the hell out of it. extra oil cant harm anything. I have seen what happens to engines that sit and not prepped for storage. Very costly if corbon has a chance to firm up in those piston groves.
This may seem like a dumb question but does this motor use Standard Motor oil and oil filter because if so I do not see a fill port or a filter
It's a 2 stroke so the oil is added to the fuel for lubrication and is burned off. No oil filler/filters. An OX66 mixes the oil/fuel in the proper ratio using a separate oil pump at the oil tank. Only use Yamalube 2 stroke oil, in my opinion.
You should really read the manual cover to cover and then read about these (expensive) engines on line, otherwise you could be looking at some serious repair costs down the road.
BTW- I like the tip on using a string to pull the landyard off to kill the engines! Clever....
You should really read the manual cover to cover and then read about these (expensive) engines on line, otherwise you could be looking at some serious repair costs down the road.
BTW- I like the tip on using a string to pull the landyard off to kill the engines! Clever....
OK, now you must be pulling my legcobrapowersys said:
If you don't know aht type of oil or where it goes, then you haven't added any in 3 years and that is really hard to believe.
That's right! now are you going to answer my question or are you going to continue being a condescending d*ckhead like you were from the start of this thread.