Trailer Rebuild

T

TLCObsession

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Bellingham, WA
Model
Adventure
Hi All -

Hope this is the right sub-forum for this -

I have a 2001 Adventurer 208 hardtop. It sits on a Shorland'r roller trailer. The trailer has a bent axle and the springs are toast. The axle is no longer available as Shorland'r is no longer supporting older trailers. Eastern Marine lists it as out of stock.

My plan is to rebuild the trailer from the frame down, reusing my hubs and my brakes (Kodiak discs).

A couple of questions:
  • The original axle is a drop axle, so the whole rig is going to rise about 3" - should I be worried?
  • New axles will be 3700lb axles, so plenty of capacity - just hope it won't be too stiff
  • I am going to do new wheels and tires and step up from the 13" to a 14" so I get more load capacity - any reason not to?
  • I am going to replace the fenders with either diamond plate aluminum (for grip) or galvanized - any reason to go one way or another?
  • I wanted to look at torsion axles, but they are more expensive and importantly not available in a width that will fit under my rails unless I can squeeze the trailer by an inch or so.
Total cost will be about $2400 in parts, and I don't think I can get a new trailer for 3 x that money up here in the PNW.

Am I missing something? Suggestions?

Thanks in advance,

Jim
 
Remember that steel trailers rot from the inside out, so be sure to do some tapping on the frame rails, tongue and cross members to see if the metal is compromised.
You should rewire if the current lights are original.
Changing from 13 to 14 inch wheels and 3700 pound axels will mean new hubs and bolt patterns. Make sure your old disk brake backer plates and fittings will mount on the new axels.

I get a lot of my trailer parts from E Trailer.
 
Glacier - I have all that gear and a plasma - but I think a cutting disc will make quick work of the 4 ubolts that hold the whole assembly to the frame.
Seasick - frame is solid and I ran a bore scope through it to check. Hubs are the same pattern - bearings may not be correct size (but I think they are) but I will replace them anyways so that I start with new on the spindle.
I like e-trailer and have bought there before but Sturdy Built looks like they have everything I need and is really competitive.

A bit worried about raising the center of gravity 3” and may have to get a new stinger once I see how it sits.
 
Not too many choices. Axles are Dexter and brake lines are Kodak. Everything else is unbranded. For this project, I wish I was in Venice so I could drive to all these sellers in an hour and check it out - but we don’t have anything like Eastern or Sturdy in the PNW.
 
I lived in Western Washington for many years in Montesano. When I needed trailer parts I usually ordered from Pacific Trailer in Chino California. They Are a manufacturer but they also have a retail store. They also have some very knowledgeable people there that you can talk to if you have a dilemma and need ideas. It has been a few years since I contacted them so, like everything else.....things may have changed.
 
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Halfhitch said:
I lived in Western Washington for many years in Montesano. When I needed trailer parts I usually ordered from Pacific Trailer in Chino California. They Are a manufacturer but they also have a retail store. They also have some very knowledgeable people there that you can talk to if you have a dilemma and need ideas. It has been a few years since I contacted them so, like everything else.....things may have changed.
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Thanks for this - looks like I could get them to custom build me drop axles. I will dig in further.
 
Halfhitch said:
I lived in Western Washington for many years in Montesano. When I needed trailer parts I usually ordered from Pacific Trailer in Chino California. They Are a manufacturer but they also have a retail store. They also have some very knowledgeable people there that you can talk to if you have a dilemma and need ideas. It has been a few years since I contacted them so, like everything else.....things may have changed.
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Agreed

Pacific Trailer is a good source for Trailer Alxes and related
 
Maybe I missed it but I don't see brakes on your list. If you are doing both axles you could be looking at another $800-1200 depending on whether you do Dacromet or SS.

Given what your time is worth, plus axles being out of stock, plus the few hundred that trailer will bring on trade, are you sure it doesn't make sense just to buy a new one?
 
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Parthery said:
Maybe I missed it but I don't see brakes on your list. If you are doing both axles you could be looking at another $800-1200 depending on whether you do Dacromet or SS.

Given what your time is worth, plus axles being out of stock, plus the few hundred that trailer will bring on trade, are you sure it doesn't make sense just to buy a new one?
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^^^^ You beat me to it. My thoughts exactly!

To the OP, even if you had say $2,500-$3,000 in materials into the trailer, I’d still consider a brand new one for probably $5k-$6k instead just for the added peace of mind. Preferably one that is aluminum as opposed to galvanized steel and one that has bunks as opposed to rollers. Just my opinion, of course. Good luck!
 
boslaw said:
@Mustang65fbk - why bunk vs roller? I've only ever had roller. Is bunk better/easier for some reason?
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Bunk trailers are generally a bit cheaper to buy on the initial purchase of the trailer as they have less parts (rollers) to them and the bunks themselves are very cheap to buy. You can rebuild them on your own and for next to no money compared to having to buy all new rollers if/when you want to rebuild your roller trailer. Bunk trailers are typically lighter, they don’t need as steep of a ramp to launch your boat in, your boat generally can’t accidentally roll off a bunk trailer like it can on a roller trailer and bunks supposedly put less pressure or stress on the hull of the boat compared to rollers having a lot of weight across a smaller surface area. Or at least that’s the rumor/theory and I’ve even heard claims that rollers can damage the boat if the boat sits on it for too long. I remember I was on the Arima boat owners forum before this one and one member with a brand new roller trailer was launching his boat on a steep ramp, took the safety chain off before the boat was in the water and it rolled right off the trailer onto the concrete ramp. I’ve owned both roller and bunk trailers before, my previous two boats both had roller trailers and my current Grady has bunks, of which after having a bunk trailer I wouldn’t ever choose to go back to rollers, unless that’s what the boat came with.
 
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boslaw said:
@Mustang65fbk - why bunk vs roller? I've only ever had roller. Is bunk better/easier for some reason?
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They both have their merits. Less expensive, less maintenance is a plus for bunks - plus they "typically" center the boat better as it comes on. However, there are times when a bunk trailer just doesn't work - if someone is launching/retrieving into a shallow area then a bunk trailer physically won't work. Sometimes you have to actually roll the boat off because the trailer can't get deep enough. Same for retrieving where you need roll the boat back on.

Generally speaking, I prefer bunks - but there are definitely cases where a roller is the better choice for the situation.
 
DennisG01 said:
However, there are times when a bunk trailer just doesn't work - if someone is launching/retrieving into a shallow area then a bunk trailer physically won't work. Sometimes you have to actually roll the boat off because the trailer can't get deep enough. Same for retrieving where you need roll the boat back on.
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Same applies on very short, very steep ramps. Bunks are useless then.

Also roller trailers are ALWAYS steel so they are heavier. That is a plus for aluminum bunk trailers if you need to cut the totoal weight of the rig.


If you have bottom paint, you can roll the boat back and paint under the rollers. Bunks you have to lift the boat.
 
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One potential gotcha on roller bunks is that some manufactures ( not Grady) will void a hull warranty if a roller trailer is used. Softish cored hulls can take a set and dent as well as put excess stress on the outer layers.
 
seasick said:
One potential gotcha on roller bunks is that some manufactures ( not Grady) will void a hull warranty if a roller trailer is used. Softish cored hulls can take a set and dent as well as put excess stress on the outer layers.
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Do you know of any smaller boats that have cored hulls? This isn't a "challenge" - I just, personally, don't know of any cored-hull (bottom, especially) small boats. Although, I suppose it's a moot point since we're all here to talk about Grady's! :)
 
Boston Whaler states that using a roller trailer will void the hull warranty . I have and probably so have you seen hulls that have indentations where rollers were pressing. Grady on the other hand specifically states that rollers are OK for all hulls. What's the difference? I can't say for sure but obviously one maker's hulls are stiffer than the other. I know that Whaler gets a lot of their strength by installing the deck cap and then injecting foam between the inner shell of the hull and the deck insert. Maybe that creates a hull that is lighter and strong but also 'squishable'.
 
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