Transducer stern block 2014 Freedom 285

Gspier1

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Begining of the Season after the boat was transported from Naples, FL back to home port in Portsmouth, RI. First time since I owned the boat the front bilge pump would cycle on and off when I jumped on the boat. Bilge pump could run for a minute. Boat yard after doing their yearly maintence and noticed the pump turning on and off after launching her. Due to the weight added to bow area, for my Minn Kota spot lock along, with Lithium Battery and lead ballast, water runs towards the bow, does not really gather in the stern area.. Boat yard notice the existing block on the bottomk, stern, was a little lose and leaking into rear bilge flowing to the bow. Boat yard said better to replace block and bolts to ensure this area does not leak again, Rather than caulking around the block where it fastened to the hull. Any thoughts or others experience similar issues.

Greg Spier
Grady White, 2014, Freedom 285 w/minnakota spot lock.
 
Not really sure what you are talking about. How about a photo? "boat yard notice the existing block on the bottomk, stern, was a little lose"
 
If I am summing up correctly, the question is...

"My transducer stern block came loose, what should I do?" Meaning, the parts about water in the bow are immaterial to the issue, correct?

You mentioned "bolts" came loose. Was it not installed properly to begin with? The reason I ask is that it's odd for bolts to get loose.

The next question is that the integrity of the transom core needs to be checked/verified. You may need to drill some exploratory holes and/or let it dry over the Winter.

Once things are KNOWN to be solid, it can all be put back together. Ideally, oversixze the holes, fill with epoxy, then drill the proper sized holes. IF it should leak again, the core will stay uncopromised.
 
Not sure what you mean by "Boat yard notice the existing block on the bottom, stern, was a little loose and leaking into rear bilge flowing to the bow. "

" Transducer Block" generally refers to an exterior mounting block glued to the outside of the transom.

Do you mean the transducer itself? Do you have a thru hull transducer that is loose and leaking?
Does it work? Do you like it? if not, replace it. If its good, remove and remount it.
You can't just caulk it.

Pictures would help.


Dunno why you need lead ballast forward. Sounds fishy...
 
My existing original Transducer is the B-744V, which is on the angle block. It appears that the transducer is leaking. The boat repair guys say they can not take it apart, that all frozen together. They said that to change the O-rings, they might break it. I can replace it or am thinking about mounting a new stern-mounted transducer. I also have a Garmin Aimar B75-mid level High Frequency Chirp 600 Watt Thruhull Transducer, but that does not have temp or speed ability. A new transducer to replace the old one is $800. The boat has twin Yamaha 250 outboards. I like to have water temp and speed if possible. Any suggestions apreciated
 

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Oh, wait. This is different than what we were thinking based on your desciption.

You could try to squeeze some sealant in there with a plastic baggie or syringe... but it's just a guess as to how long that will last.

The next option is to put some effort and time in trying to remove the bolts I don't see any exterior fasteners so it's not thru-bolted, correct? Sometimes you can get lucky with penetrating oil, HD vinegar, muriatic, impact, even a manual impact driver... and, of course, persistence. Might as well try some persistence - if you demolish it... then you go to plan B and replace it.
 
the B75 has water temp!

You get speed from GPS, you don't need a paddle wheel. Thats old technology.

The old B744 had a paddle wheel that could be pulled out from inside the boat(to clean it). It came with a "blanking" plug that could be used to fill the hole. It had a flap valve to slow the in-rush of water while you inserted the plug.The plug (and paddle wheel) had o-rings to keep it from leaking.

This may be your problem? look at the Install manual from Airmar site https://d3fyi2ud8f6h0p.cloudfront.net/userfiles/documents/d/doc%20116-d-17-438-01-1-7-1.pdf

looks like this
Screenshot 2026-08-18 at 9.39.13 PM.png


In any case, since you have a B75 chirp transducer, you must have a newer Garmin sonar than the original that used the B744.
The B744 is "obsolete".

I would remove it and glass over the hole, or easier, replace it with an Airmar transducer that has the same hole dimension as the B744
One of these. These are CHIRP replacements for a B744
Screenshot 2026-08-18 at 9.42.47 PM.png

Get one to complement the B75 that you have. If you have a B75M or HW then get a B765LH for better bottom reading

..or fill the hole and get a GT51M transom mount that gives you sidevu...