I know, hard to answer not looking/testing. I am looking to possibly buy thjis boat. I have not seen in person yet as moving 1500 to area where boat is. Have others seen this? major concerning? opinions? thanks
Transom crack
- Thread starter Tracker40
- Start date
Run !
that’s not good - I see a boat being cut apart to have the transom recored…
that’s not good - I see a boat being cut apart to have the transom recored…
A small ball peen hammer is your friend :
tap the transom with that hammer and listen -
Good sound is a sharp distinct tone
Dull thud Is trouble
that boat is kind of a double shot of trouble
Transom and an ETEC motor - ETEC motors are know for trouble. Injector problems - NOT due to fuel ! Lower unit problems and powerhead failures…..
It's usually not a good sign . Can you tell us the model and year of the hull and the model/make of the engine.
I have a 98 208 and been dealing with that crack in the gel coat on the port side for five years it is an area that takes some stress raising and lowering the engine ,my bilge is dry never any water boat is at a slip during the summer , I believe its more stress related then water as its high up on the transom . Its part of my preseason prep as the repair splits in the same area .
If that area continues to crack - it’s more than a gelcoat crack.
Cracks come from movement - something is flexing in the transom.Being in the water has nothing to do with this.
From that picture, it looks like the transom is still flat. It's quite possible that the core is still good and the crack is not nearly as bad as some think. It could be a very easy fix. Point is... as you said, hared for us to tell for sure. More investigating needs to be done on site. Sounding the area is the first step. Drilling a couple 1/4" core sample holes would be ideal, although it's unlikely the owner would allow that. The aluminum bang plate doesn't look "horrible", but that should be high up on your "fix list" if you buy the boat.
A gelcoat spider crack is a different situation. If you look closely at the crack you can see weep stains below its lower edge. Those are caused by moisture seeping out. The color is caused by the tannins in the coring or by rot. It does indicate that there is moisture and flex in that area
Saw that, too. Thinking, though, that it could be superficial (at least at this point). Meaning, it may not be from water finding it's way in elsewhere and then leaking out through that crack... but instead water entering that crack and then right back out.
However, the aluminum bang plate IS a source of possible water intrusion. But it's still quite possible that while the wood may have gotten wet it isn't rotten. A few holes can dry it out.
At this point, though, it's all conjecture as to how bad it is. I highly doubt it's a "rebuild the entire transom" thing, though. But the reality is, this is going to be a common thing to see in older boats... at least ones with that stupid attempt at using an aluminum cap to cover an unfinished transom/deck joint. Definitely a "what was Grady thinking" thing!
Thanks to all that have replied. Its a 1993 adventurer with a 2006 150 Etec. I for one am not an outboard fan. I have been a master tech for 39 years and also looking at a 204C? but is older but has the 470 IO. easier for me to work on /rebuild if ever need etc. . Seller only said crack developed 2 years ago, and never got worse, Yes hard not being there but thinking I may? take a closer look when moved back in 2 weeks,. the other 204 is on hold for me to look at. Yoiu all have sent excellent information.
Mustang65fbk
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I think the seller isn't exactly being honest as that appears to be a decent sized crack and even if the boat hasn't been operated in 2 years, I'd have to imagine it's gotten bigger in that time. In I believe it was 1997, Grady White started using a product called Greenwood XL that is supposed to be much more impervious or resistant towards rotting, I'd consider looking for maybe a slightly newer boat or one that doesn't have this as an issue as a new transom would likely cost $7k-$10k+ and take weeks or more to do. I always recommend also having an accredited marine surveyor look over the boat with you and tell you about all of the issues that there are with it. They can use a moisture meter, go over it with a hammer and feel for soft spots, look over and inspect the outboard, etc. If you love the boat and really have to have it, offer considerably less than their asking price as it looks like it could be a serious and costly issue in the near future. If the seller isn't wanting to work with you then I'd run away very quickly.
I agree and I'm the third owner don't know how the boat was trailered ,I thought of installing steel braces inside that area to see if that helps >
Tracker, that boat does not belong to you so it is not your problem........don't make it your problem. Move on, forget that boat exists, there are literally hundreds of boats for sale that do not have that unexplained, potential disaster-in-the-making. You want your boat purchase to be a happy occasion without possible doom hanging over the deal. I'm old, I know.