Transom Mount Crack

sharkbait2589

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Express 360
I’m in the process of purchasing a 2006 Grady white 360 with triple 250’s, took a look in the aft bilge area and there appeared to be a single crack running horizontally across the lower engine mounting bolts. This crack appears to be only on the inside of the boat. Could this just be from overly tightened bolts and stress? or am I dealing with something more serious? Also, if it’s the second option and I have to redo the transom, what’s that gonna cost me? I’m getting the boat at a relatively low price so I’m willing to put some work into, just as long as it’s not gonna break the bank. ThanksF689905B-B963-4E3C-9212-846DA22DB5EC.jpegpA7E271F5-E7B2-4394-B604-03AA3C496C96.jpegAAA44B55-331D-41F6-A15C-C7C0DDEB0C29.jpeg
 

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Based on the rust bleed, I would suggest the transom has gone the way of all flesh and will need replacing. Talk to a surveyor for a much more reliable opinion, though.
 
Noted, just looked at a few more pictures I got and it appears the rust is only near washers that have rusted, there’s gaps in between the sets of bolts where no rust is present in the crack, if that changes anything. Thanks.
 
It is possible that its just a gelcoat crack.
Flex test, remove a bolt, and a few core samples... same as you would do if you did not see that crack.

I poured a new transom on a 20 footer with 1 1/2" transom it was over $2k in material plus all my time.
Thats a big boat. That transom is 3" thick, I think, with aluminum reinforcing.
If it had to be done, its $10k easy and an all summer project.
 
I'd get that checked out by a surveyor before laying money down. It looks like water intrusion through the bolt hole, core compromised and glass cracking as a result. Just my 2 pennies. The other option is get the seller to agree that to move forward you get a couple of estimates from a glass man and net this off the purchase price.
 
Hard to tell from the pics. If the glass looks swollen around the washers like they are sinking in I would move on. Probably worth having someone with a moisture meter.
 
cant add anything but to say the bilge interiors of my '02 gulfstream and '09 330 were gray. they were not GW cream color. good luck, ron
 
Thanks folks, getting a survey within the week and gonna have the surveyor keep a close on that transom.
 
Let us know what the surveyor tells you. I have similar cracks on my 282 sailfish that the surveyor never even mentioned (boat was on the opposite coast). I'm suspecting they are just gel coat cracks on my boat as I measure the transom moisture when I pull the boat out and it hasn't changed in the last year and a half since I bought the boat. From what I can piece together the previous owner must have tried a little too hard to pull free a snagged anchor as the gel coat cracks on the transom and bow pulpit are consistent with that kind of silly attempt. The fact that the boat came with a brand new windlass and no anchor were also hints.
 
Thanks folks, getting a survey within the week and gonna have the surveyor keep a close on that transom.

If it ends up being dry remove the nuts and either buy or fabricate transom backing plates. And it wouldn't hurt to seal the existing cracks while you're in there.

it might end up being superficial.
 
Looks like that thing took a hit. I'd be concerned and looking forward to what the Surveyor has to say. Interesting the exterior isn't cracked- maybe the paint/gel was just very thick and its superficial. Any future buyers would definitely have concerns when they see it also.
 
The rust around the left nut is really rust but the stain oozing from the crack looks a different color to me and can be typical of a rotten core seepage.
 
But there is no seepage from the crack to the left and above the left nut? And very little to the right of the right nut. Looks to me the rusty nut is seeping rust filled moisture to the right along the crack with gravity pulling it that direction. That is my impression in any case.
 
Hopefully a survey will identify the cause.