Transom replacement

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jerseytiger10

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Location
Brielle, New Jersey
Website
www.townmotors.com
Model
Express 360
I bought a 2000 Grady white 222 and had it surveyed and it has no issues. Just wondering if anyone has replaced a transom on one? I’m sure at some point it will be an issue. Any insight is appreciated. Thanks!
 
For the most part, all transom replacements are about the same - regardless of model or even brand. But, if it's good, it's good. Keep it that way and you'll "be good" for a long, long time. Why do you feel it WILL be a problem? There's no reason to think that it will go bad if you take care of it.
 
On trailer she will be good for life, if you leave her on water you have to make sure any holes are made waterproof .
 
DennisG01 said:
For the most part, all transom replacements are about the same - regardless of model or even brand. But, if it's good, it's good. Keep it that way and you'll "be good" for a long, long time. Why do you feel it WILL be a problem? There's no reason to think that it will go bad if you take care of it.
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I hope it is never an issue. More just doing research. I like to be prepared.
 
jerseytiger10 said:
I hope it is never an issue. More just doing research. I like to be prepared.
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Don't stress over it. There's really nothing to prepare for - IF it becomes an issue, then you can look into options. There's really nothing to be gained by spending your time and effort looking into this now. All it can do is cause you to be worrying about it every time you're boating. If it's good, close the book on it and go enjoy the boat.
 
If it isn't in trouble now, I wouldn't worry over it. I would be thinking about a repower in the future:)
 
Actually, most of the compromised transom cores on older Gradys is not from water boat sits in, but from mostly water seeping in and under moldings covering seam of area where cockpit is joined together with hull. Much of this water comes from rain, washing, etc.
 
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Actually, most of the compromised transom cores on older Gradys is not from water boat sits in, but from mostly water seeping in and under moldings covering seam of area where cockpit is joined together with hull. Much of this water comes from rain, washing, etc.
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Very interesting. Please discuss further - how, then, does one actively prevent this occurrence? Where is the seam (cockpit to hull)? You must be talking about inside the boat, not under the gunnel. What proactive steps can be taken to prevent damage from water that does get in? Thank you.
 
For example many of the "notched" transoms where the outboard(s) mount has a 1"x1" aluminum angle molding covering the seam where hull/cockpit sections are joined. This molding has sealant under it when new, but after time sealant washes out and allows water to get under molding and into transom core. This is a common problem on older "wood core" transom models, and is a difficult involved repair. Resealing this aluminum molding every now and then is a wise thing to do, but difficult with outboard(s) mounted over top of it.
 
Stored properly (winter) and well maintained- it wont necessarily need replacement
 
The bang plate area is a risk area along with people drilling and mounting things without properly sealing. I wish the engineers would find a better method to join the hull and liner at the engine mount area. Crazy method (screws and plastic pieces) for such a costly boat.
 
Fishtales said:
The bang plate area is a risk area along with people drilling and mounting things without properly sealing. I wish the engineers would find a better method to join the hull and liner at the engine mount area. Crazy method (screws and plastic pieces) for such a costly boat.
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That's very true. You would think that an obvious problem area would have been solved long ago by Grady. By just replacing the infamous 1"x1" angle molding with a channel type molding before installing outboard(s) would have removed most of the water seepage into core area.
 
The bond between the transom and the deck - that back edge/corner - sort of the "inside" of where the bang plate is... that joint is not strong enough. It should be reinforced on the inside of that joint better to prevent it "popping" apart to begin with.
 
K2Freak said:
Very interesting. Please discuss further - how, then, does one actively prevent this occurrence? Where is the seam (cockpit to hull)? You must be talking about inside the boat, not under the gunnel. What proactive steps can be taken to prevent damage from water that does get in? Thank you.
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purchased a 208 adventurer in1998. covered the screws on aluminum plate with silicone.and every year it had a fisher canvas on it.before repowering (E-TEC HO)had the trans ckecked.fiberglass guy said there was some moisture in it.they cleaned it up about one third off the way down.reglassed and eliminated the aluminum plate.did this to be on the safe side.and it does look better with out the aluminum
 
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