Trim Tab Check and Re-install - GW 248

[Pete1313]

I need suggestions on how to deal with removing some older and somewhat corroded (but still quite usable) trim tabs, and reinstalling them. OR, perhaps you have a suggesion on how to check them.

The boat previously sat in the salt....so there is some galvanic corrosion.

The purpose of removing and reinstalling is that the survey I had suggested I check all points where the tabs fasten to the hull to ensure they aren't corroded to the point they may fail. This, to me, means I need to check all the screws connecting the tabs and rams to the transom.

The survey returned no elevated moisture in these areas, so I know they were installed properly originally....

But I'm concerned about messing with those screws...even trying to turn them at all.....as I don't want to create any voids.

I was thinking I'd back them all out, and fill the gaps with epoxy, then reinstall the old tabs and rams (which work fine) into the same spots, using some 4200 to seal.

Does this sound like a good plan? What type of expoxy/filler should I use?

The boat is a 248 Voyager...so the tabs are in those pockets forward of the euro transom....

THanks for any advice!

 

[JUST-IN-TIME]

use a de-bonder, because those should be stuck on with 5200

use can marine tex

but west system epoxy is 10x better

 

[richie rich]

Pete, I did that exact job on my sailfish 2 years ago.....I agree with JIT, use debonder if you can and definitely epoxy. West, Mas, S3, they're all good. The new Mas and S3 won't blush with slow hardener so they are easier to re-gel coat.... if you want.

My lower portion of the transom was wet. Some of the screws did break while removing due to crevice corrosion. Regardless, I drilled out all the holes oversize and plugged them with 3/8 dowels and a thickened epoxy mix with milled glass and cab-o-sil, I only went in deep enough to get past the screw and not penetrate the inner skin. Used a half inch drill for the oversize which allowed for the plug/epoxy to go all the way in without an air pocket void. Left a nice epoxy "ring" around the plug making it watertite. Cut them flush and beveled below the outer skin so I could fair the hole flush with colored epoxy.

Now you'll have a brand new screw surface that protects the rest of your transom from water intrusion at those points. If they ever get soaked, just drill them out and replug again. Now just pre-drill new holes to the shank size of the screw and re-fasten with the epoxy, or 5200 if you want. Since the trim tab plate surrounds the screw, I used 5200 around the hole area to seal any intrusion before it gets to the fastener and epoxy.
Its not going anywhere.

I sanded and polished the SS tabs/hardware and painted them with Interprotect and then Trilux.....leave the area for the anode clean metal or they wont work........
The tabs came out great!