Unlock Old Seacock?

[Jonah]

My 272 is 23 years old, and the seacock I have in mind may be original. It's locked in the 'closed' position, and I'm scared of pulling too hard on the handle, lest I tear the whole thru-hull out of place.

Any advice? WD-40? Or is a green-corroded seacock never going to unlock? I suppose it depends upon how badly it's locked up, so I'll try to post a photo soon.

 

[DennisG01]

The green corrosion is verdigris. It is actually the bronze's way of protecting itself. Ever seen an old penny or that famous, large green woman in NYC? The green coating is on the outside - the "sealing" portion is on the inside.

You won't rip it out. If you do, you have bigger issues. Give it a shot. Use a pipe over the handle for extra leverage if needed and work it back and forth. WD-40 is not for loosening stuck parts. PB Blaster is a better choice and can sprayed INSIDE the seacock, if needed.

 

[seasick]

I had three of these on one of my 'other' boats. Granted they say for a lot shorter time.
I removed the hose/pump/strainer depending on each ones configuration and shot some penetrating oil like PB Blaster into the fitting. I let it sit for several hours checking every now and then and adding a bit more oil.

Two of them eventually moved with hand pressure ( I use a 6 inch piece of 3/4 " PVC pipe as a lever). The third one needed a bit of coaxing with a hammer. Nothing really hard just some tap tap tap. I also let that valve sit for a day or two adding oil once or twice.

There are some issues that can affect the ability to free up:
If the ball of the valve is stuck, you only get oil to the top. It may or may not work its way around.
More critical is the fact that often its not the ball that's stuck but rather the shaft it turns on. Pouring or spraying oil into the valve probably isn't going to get to the shaft bushings.
The job is harder when the hull is in the water of course. It is is out, I have been told that one approach is to shoot penetrant into the valve from the bottom or make an oil bath using a rubber cork with a hose in it to allow oil to be pooled in the valve body. Some of the sea cocks in theory can be disassembled or at least the shafts can but I have found that the shaft hardware is usually frozen and you cant get the packing nut off (at least while mounted to the hull)

 

[seasick]

Dennis, I didn't see you comment on PB Blaster before I responded to the original post. I swear by that stuff. I don't know what is in it but it almost never fails me especially on old rusted/corroded trailer fittings. You just have to be patient, sometimes for days.

 

[DennisG01]

I feel the same way about the stuff. I don't doubt there's other products out there that work at least as well, but I've been so pleased with it, I just keep using it. At this point, I haven't found anything that is noticeably better, anyways. Besides, that's a hard thing to test as there's just too many variables involved in a rusted/corroded bolt.

 

[Jonah]

Dennis and Seasick, thanks very much. Sounds like I need some PB Blaster, a section of pipe, and some patience. Hopefully that'll do the trick.

 

[TonyD]

Dennis and Seasick, thanks very much. Sounds like I need some PB Blaster, a section of pipe, and some patience. Hopefully that'll do the trick.

I am going to make a thirds on this - PB Blaster has never let me down!

 

[Jonah]

Thanks Tony. The only question for me is whether I can find it here in Nassau ... If I can, it will be double the price!

 

[TonyD]

Thanks Tony. The only question for me is whether I can find it here in Nassau ... If I can, it will be double the price!

I'd try what Seasick and Dennis suggest before needing and looking for PB Blaster - but I would think on a boat you wouldn't need to loosen rust? I am thinking more salt corrosion is the problem here and a little bit of pressure will help you.. sounds like you need to get a little bit of leverage on the handle.

 

[Fishtales]

x2 on the penetrating oil. Let sit for a few days and then try to break it. Once you do, you will be able to work it.

 

[DennisG01]

White vinegar can work on salt. But I agree - give it a harder push, first.

 

[Jonah]

Ok, I'll try pulling harder! I have some pipe that I can use for a bit of leverage. And of course I have white vinegar, which I might try before hunting down PB Blaster.

 

[seasick]

Ok, I'll try pulling harder! I have some pipe that I can use for a bit of leverage. And of course I have white vinegar, which I might try before hunting down PB Blaster.

You can pull a little harder but not too hard. It is better to give the lever a few sharp taps with a hammer. That doesn't put as much strain on the thru fitting hardware. So some leverage, some tapping, repeat.