My washdown pump on my 2003 228 just stopped working. It's a shureflo. I wasn't able to find the fuse for this puppy. Any hints on how to start trouble-shooting this thing?
Wash-down pump trouble-shooting tips...
- Thread starter jfmagana
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Hookup1
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Pump problem
Circuit breaker in your dash - no fuse. Check for voltage at the pump leads. Most likley senario is the motor brushes are hung up. Give the motor a few good wraps with a soft hammer but not so hard to shatter the ceramic magnets in the housing.
These pumps can be repaired but you don't always get it right the first time. They are in the bilge in a tough enviroment. I just replace the whole pump.
Circuit breaker in your dash - no fuse. Check for voltage at the pump leads. Most likley senario is the motor brushes are hung up. Give the motor a few good wraps with a soft hammer but not so hard to shatter the ceramic magnets in the housing.
These pumps can be repaired but you don't always get it right the first time. They are in the bilge in a tough enviroment. I just replace the whole pump.
Hookup,
Thanks for the tip. I just tried resetting the circuit breaker (I presume it's the rubber button above the switch), but no joy. The motor doesn't make any noise when I turn on the switch (i.e., it doesn't hum or click like it's trying to engage). Both of the power leads appear to be very much sealed-up/waterproofed with shrink-wrap, etc....any suggestions as to how I can check the power feed? should I just open-up the splice that's ~6" away from the pump? Should I just take apart the switch panel and measure the voltage on the load side of the switch? Any hints would be greatly appreciated...if I can fix this pump, I'd much rather do that than spend a lot of mulla on a new one.
Thanks for the tip. I just tried resetting the circuit breaker (I presume it's the rubber button above the switch), but no joy. The motor doesn't make any noise when I turn on the switch (i.e., it doesn't hum or click like it's trying to engage). Both of the power leads appear to be very much sealed-up/waterproofed with shrink-wrap, etc....any suggestions as to how I can check the power feed? should I just open-up the splice that's ~6" away from the pump? Should I just take apart the switch panel and measure the voltage on the load side of the switch? Any hints would be greatly appreciated...if I can fix this pump, I'd much rather do that than spend a lot of mulla on a new one.
You have sea cock open?
Was the breaker tripped when you pushed it? (Was it up high in boot first?)
Expose but not disconnect the wires at the 6 inch point from the motor and clip on digital voltmeter.
What does it read when turning on switch?
Was the breaker tripped when you pushed it? (Was it up high in boot first?)
Expose but not disconnect the wires at the 6 inch point from the motor and clip on digital voltmeter.
What does it read when turning on switch?
Hookup1
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Testing motor
Get to the leads to the motor. If their are splices go to them. You need something pointy - like straight pins. Push them into the splce or through the insulation of the lead wire. With your voltmeter measure voltage. Your looking for 12 volts across the motor.
Assuming you have proven you have power to the motor (most likley senario) you need to disconnect the pump and get it out so you can work on it.
Put push together connectors on the motor and boat wiring and cover connection with tape. Its not usually hard to get the motor working again but they typically don't keep running. The connectors make it easier for the next time you need to take it out or test it.
Good luck!
Get to the leads to the motor. If their are splices go to them. You need something pointy - like straight pins. Push them into the splce or through the insulation of the lead wire. With your voltmeter measure voltage. Your looking for 12 volts across the motor.
Assuming you have proven you have power to the motor (most likley senario) you need to disconnect the pump and get it out so you can work on it.
Put push together connectors on the motor and boat wiring and cover connection with tape. Its not usually hard to get the motor working again but they typically don't keep running. The connectors make it easier for the next time you need to take it out or test it.
Good luck!
I aaume that you are sure that the motor is not running. Sometimes the pumps get plugged with crud and won't push water but tries to. Some pumps have filters on the input side. Also, the pressure switch could be bad/stuck/gummed up.
Make sure that your washdown hose and nozzle are working ( disconnect and test with water faucet.
Verify motor not humming when you try to use it
verify 12V at the motor.
Verify ground at the ground lead ( If you measure 12 volts at both leads to the motor, the ground is open.
Tap the motor with a hammer slightly to see if it starts spinning.
Next step would be to pull the unit and have it checked out.
Good luck
Make sure that your washdown hose and nozzle are working ( disconnect and test with water faucet.
Verify motor not humming when you try to use it
verify 12V at the motor.
Verify ground at the ground lead ( If you measure 12 volts at both leads to the motor, the ground is open.
Tap the motor with a hammer slightly to see if it starts spinning.
Next step would be to pull the unit and have it checked out.
Good luck
plymouthgrady
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Unfortunately, the pumps don't really give any warning when they are about to go. When mine failed, it worked on Tues. & was dead on Wed.
Touch the leads directly to the battery, if it spins, you've got a wiring/fuse problem.
Touch the leads directly to the battery, if it spins, you've got a wiring/fuse problem.
make sure you have 12v to the switch first
then check at the pump
i have seen crappy switches and good pumps
then check at the pump
i have seen crappy switches and good pumps
Thanks for all the advice gentlemen. I'm going up to the harbor to trouble-shoot it Friday and will post my findings...
Was wondering where you went!
If you get good voltage at the motor when you turn it on, same voltage as measured at the battery, find the two wires coming out of the pressure switch, if you have the model where they are external. The pressure switch turns on motor with drop in pressure automatically.
If the wires are external, short the two wires together. Since the switch is in series with the motor, the short will effectively eliminate the swicth and the motor should now run if the switch is defective.
The pressure switch may be a replacable part, check manuf. website.
If you get good voltage at the motor when you turn it on, same voltage as measured at the battery, find the two wires coming out of the pressure switch, if you have the model where they are external. The pressure switch turns on motor with drop in pressure automatically.
If the wires are external, short the two wires together. Since the switch is in series with the motor, the short will effectively eliminate the swicth and the motor should now run if the switch is defective.
The pressure switch may be a replacable part, check manuf. website.
just had the same problem and it was the pressure switch inside the pump, I could not repair it so I bought a new pump at rape marine. Problem solved...
Hookup1
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Pump pressure switch
The ShurFlow pressure switches are off the shelf Cherry microswitches that are readialy available. Johnstone Supply and Grainger (pn 6X291) has them for under $3.
The ShurFlow pressure switches are off the shelf Cherry microswitches that are readialy available. Johnstone Supply and Grainger (pn 6X291) has them for under $3.
Hookup, good point, particularly appropriate, since the OP stated he was looking to do a less costly repair vs. total replacement.
This is DIY territory, no professional is going to fart around for a few bucks. Labor is the same, but gotta make good on list price for totally new pump, too.
My pump has a replacement switch with wires external, so does the current model being sold , I looked it up on vendor website for OP.
I would bet the farm, plenty of pumps get deep 6th, when the most costly part, the motor, is perfectly good. The last pump to go vapor lock on me, bought rebuild kit for pump, good as new.
This is DIY territory, no professional is going to fart around for a few bucks. Labor is the same, but gotta make good on list price for totally new pump, too.
My pump has a replacement switch with wires external, so does the current model being sold , I looked it up on vendor website for OP.
I would bet the farm, plenty of pumps get deep 6th, when the most costly part, the motor, is perfectly good. The last pump to go vapor lock on me, bought rebuild kit for pump, good as new.
"if I can fix this pump, I'd much rather do that than spend a lot of mulla on a new one."
Above quote posted by the OP.
Pretty clear to me. Just trying to help out the member.
Above quote posted by the OP.
Pretty clear to me. Just trying to help out the member.