Water Pump Question Yamaha 200 HPDI

[SwampGrizz]

Hello All-

I have a 2000 Yamaha 200 HPDI, and my question has to do with the water pump, particularly when it's time to flush. When I have it in the water, it pees just fine at idle and WOT. Good solid stream, no overheating problems, no alarms, and when it's put up on the rack, the motor does not feel like it's overheating. The problem is when I put the flush muff on and crank it, it will not pee. I have tried varying the amount of water pressure from the hose (full, medium, & low), and no pee. I do not let it run more than just a few seconds when it doesn't pee, and I shut her off. When I hook the hose up to the flush port, it pees without cranking just from the water hose pressure. I have run the motor on the flush port, and I have read that you shouldn't do that. I have also read that the larger Yamaha motors don't like to run on the flush muffs, but I don't know how much stock to put into that. Any advice and help here will be greatly appreciated in advance. If I need to provide more info, just ask.

Thanks,
SwampGrizz

 

[Peregrine]

I have exactly the same motor which I bought new with the boat in 2000. I flush it in the fall and commission it in spring with muffs with no problem. I do have great water pressure at the house and keep the flow full on. I keep the motor on idle speed until a get a pee flow which may take up to 15 seconds or so, then I can increase the rpm some to get the motor smoothed out. I only run it on the muffs to get it warmed up to complete what I need to do, and never over about 1,800 rpm briefly. I have less than 200 hours on the motor and have changed the pump and thermostats once since new about 5 years ago. It's due for another change which may get done this year. Hope this helps. Good luck.

 

[seasick]

Same here. The pee takes a few seconds to get going after the motor starts.

 

[merlin25]

I have the same motor and the muffs I have aren't a great fit so I find I need to press the muffs against the motor until it gets the right fit and starts peeing good.

 

[Tucker]

I bought the double feed muffs. Even so the pump won't prime; probably because I'm on a well. Gents, run these big outboards 30-seconds without prime and kiss the water pump good-by. I just got a 55-gal plastic drum for $10. It's nice that I don't have a big mess on the ground either. Run the motor in Fall and flush it with salt-away and you know you got a good flush. Takes up a little more room for storage than the muffs though.

 

[hotajax]

Usually water pressure from your house is the problem. Get your muffs and put them on while the muffs and the motor are dry. Then duct tape the crap out of the whole thing. If that doesn't do it for you, move the boat closer to the house and / or shorten the amount of hose the water has to flow through. I did a wp job at my house, it wouldn't pee afterwards, and I assumed I screwed up. Then a vision came to me one night, maybe it was my Old Granddad or Johnny Walker, can't remember, and I tried the duct tape trick. Worked like a charm.

 

[Tucker]

Cristfield eh? Thinking about taking a trip there this summer. Can do it in this boat. Soon as I figure out this GPS I'll figure miles. From Port Deposit on the Susquehanna at 1.5 mpg, should be able to handle this on well under a tank. (fuel's $3.89 here)

 

[lodgecreekgrady]

Don't use those double feed muffs if they have the plastic tube down each side. They don't fit tight enough to get a good seal. Use only a good set of muffs that have the metal springs holding the muff and be sure they fit tight. Some of the others types may be ok but it must be a snug fit. Those duel feed that only have the plastic feed lines going to the muff do not fit tight enough to get a good seal and will cook your pump. Put a good pair of muffs on and turn on the water and have someone watch how much water is coming by the muffs and out the vent holes on the lower unit and start the engine and you should have very little or no leakage around the muffs when the pump picks up the water.

 

[merlin25]

I have owned my 200 HPDI a couple of years (2005 used) and I read in the manual that the water pump needs replacement every 200 hours or yearly. Does anyone replace it yearly? Also is the replacement fairly easy or challenging?

Also - where and how often should the thermostat be changed out?

 

[hotajax]

Doing the water pump - Best written instructions are found in the Clymer publication on that particular outboard. It's really not too hard, it looks more intimidating than it is. For the first time you do it, keep the book open - after that, you'll know. Also keep a buddy around to hold the lower unit int the engine until you bolt it back up. Last tip - Mark the position of the trim tab. And your BONUS TIP OF THE DAY - call Andy at SIM and be prepared to give him the serial number of your engine. He'll send you what you need to do it. I did it last spring, cost me about $135 including shipping. You'll also need a tube of marine grease to lube the drive shaft splines, and the part of the drive shaft that goes thru the water pump assembly. Should take you about 2-3 hours max the first time you do it. Metric sockets you'll need for this job are 10,12, &14 mm.
I do mine every 2 or 3 years depending on how much I run it.

 

[SwampGrizz]

Well...I finally got it to pee on the muffs. I must not have waited long enough or it wasn't a tight enough fit last time. Either way, I feel a lot better about it. After I ran it with the muffs, I turned it off and flushed it through the port.

Many thanks to all who post here. This board has been a GREAT education for me, and I appreciate the people who are willing to share their knowledege and experience.

SwampGrizz

 

[hotajax]

Yeah, usually somebody on hear knows something about whatever is asked. Glad to hear it went OK. Kind of a sickening feeling when you go through all that work and it won't pee.