Waterline pics new 257 Fisherman

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256Fisherman4me?

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I'm looking at a 2014 257 Fisherman w/2 x 200 Yammies but REALLY need to know where the waterline sits in relation to the cockpit drains and the motor brackets (especially the tilt cylinders). Anyone have any pics full of fuel/water? Down here in the Miami marinas metals get eaten up quick.

REALLY appreciate it (and any comments) - trying hard to become a first time GW Owner! Been a "Whaler Guy" for 40+ years.
 
Thank you! I have spent hours looking on-line too. Want to see if the L/U's tilt clear and stay clear once on the tilt locks (ps most don't know this but the two trim rams must be totally retracted once on the locks) are in position. Can't find this on-line for the 257 with the new 200's.

Is there a proud new 257 Fisherman owner with the new 4 cylinder Yamaha 200's out there who can help? Need pic of motors tilted up, in water, full tank of fuel. Ideally a pic of the brackets too. Any other info would be appreciated since I am looking seriously at a new one.
 
One thing to keep in mind is that most boats are delivered with the outboards mounted too low. The dealers tend to be conservative in this area because they don't want to disappoint a new owner with the risk of prop blowout during a turn. They tend to use the second mounting hole from the top. Even if you find the photos you are looking for, it is likely that the motors are mounted too low unless they are in or near the bottom hole. Also, there are some prop designs that hold the water better then others so that if you really want to get into that bottom hole, you probably can provided you get one of these props. I don't now what the prop names are for Yamaha but for Evinrude the claim is that when changing props from a Viper to a Rebel the motors can move up one hole. The Rebel prop is bigger but has less pitch than the corresponding Viper and therefore slips less.

I've never bothered to retract my ram rods at the slip but do hose off that area with fresh water after every trip. The boat I sold last year had a 1990 Yamaha 225 which had no corrosion on the rods but I was constantly battling corrosion on the case of the trim&tilt motor. (I was happy to see that the motor case appears to be plastic or composite on my E-Tecs so I won't have to worry about that any longer.)
 
Thanks! Never thought about the mount height thing. I would assume since GW installs the motors they would use the optimum height but ya' never know and I understand about being conservative.

For the tilt lock, dun'no about Mercs or E-techs, but I do know that most Yamahas and older Evinrudes need to have the locks down, then the rods FULLY retracted. Takes 30-60 seconds of down button. The evidence is that once they fully retract the motor sets down just a tad more with the full weight on the locks. Most folks, even "experts" are not aware of this. That being said, anyone looking to do this should try to check it out first, usually call the manufacturer is best and get someone who actually knows what they are talking about. Again, I think you CANNOT do this with Mercs, dun'no about E-tecs or maybe the bigger Yamahas. I do know that my last boat had the new 300 (2011 or 2012?) Yamaha and this was the proper technique.

Still hopin' someone owning a new 257 Fisherman will send me the pics - please?
 
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