West Systems Epoxy Curing Temp Question

[sfc2113]

Sorry if this seem like a silly question but, I have only ween working with the epoxy in thinned out batches.



I want to make a couple round epoxy plugs to fill in some holes in wood, about 1 in thik and 2.5 in around. I plan on routing the mold out of wood and putting plactic in it for a release after I mix and pour it in.

Using 105 resin and 206 slow hardner and some 404 filler @ 70 deg will this get too hot and melt the plastic or burn anything. Only reason I ask is, I plan on pouring this in and dont want to have a fire or anything smoking while I am sleeping.

 

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

It WILL get really hot and smoky. Can you do it in sections ? Pour first like 1/2" thick, let it set (not cure), then 6-8 hours later while is still tacky pour the rest.

What exactly you trying to make?

 

[seasick]

Sorry if this seem like a silly question but, I have only ween working wiht the epoxy in thinned out batches.



I want to make a couple round epoxy plugs to fill in some holes in wood, about 1 in thik and 5in around. I plan on routing the mold out of wood and putting plactic in it for a release after I mix and pour it in.

Using 105 resin and 206 slow hardner and some 404 filler @ 70 deg will this get too hot and melt the plastic or burn anything. Only reason I ask is, I plan on pouring this in and dont want to have a fire or anything smoking while I am sleeping.

I don't know what you are repairing but keep in mind that an epoxy plug will expand/contract at a different rate than the wood will. If you need to plug wood, use a wood plug and try to match the species.

If you decide to go the epoxy route, note that there is a chance that the plug may crack if all epoxy. A better solution would be fiberglass mat layers, soaked in epoxy and laid up in several operations.

 

[sfc2113]

Sorry I had the wrong size in the post, I was going to over drill my scupper holes to 2.5 in and install a epoxy plug 2.5 round x 1.5 epoxy it in place as mentioned and then drill out the hole again to 2 in. But ,I thingk am just going to use a pcv pipeas a sleeve. I was just curious if that quantity of epoxy mixed with some filler could be done without starting a fire or something while it cured..

 

[seasick]

Sorry I had the wrong size in the post, I was going to over drill my scupper holes to 2.5 in and install a epoxy plug 2.5 round x 1.5 epoxy it in place as mentioned and then drill out the hole again to 2 in. But ,I thingk am just going to use a pcv pipeas a sleeve. I was just curious if that quantity of epoxy mixed with some filler could be done without starting a fire or something while it cured..

That makes more sense now. You could use epoxy cloth cut into a width equal to the depth of the transom, coat the inside of the scupper hole with epoxy and apply the cloth strips to the inner surface of the hole, thus reducing the diameter. Sevel layers could be applied at one time and the wetted strips will stick (clean up the inside edges of the existing hole).

 

[cdwood]

Now your starting to overthink yourself.

I assume your wanting to make sure your scupper holes will never let water enter the transom correct?

When you drill those holes you will have plenty of room for numerous coats of epoxy on the end grain of the holes and probably even be able to put a layer of tape on top of that.

With 3 coats of epoxy and a layer of tape glassed over that, if you bed the scuppers well with 5200 you should never have to be concerned about your transom at that location. Some scuppers(Attwood) also come with a gasket for the outside.

Did you get the SS scuppers?