Wet Transom Question

CatTwentyTwo

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I have a 94 208 Adventure and have read about this problem with that vintage of Grady's on other sites. I did try using search here, but I am not very computer savvy and could not find anything. I am wondering if this really is an issue and if so, what can be done to prevent it. I am quite sure that we don't have a problem with our boat at this time because we keep it stored on the trailer in the garage and it has not seen a lot of use. I would just like to be proactive with any maintenance that might be needed if the issue does exist with this model.

Thanks
Randy
 

whitey

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search a member who's no longer on this site,jimmy's marine service.this guy has a repair shop and he has given the best advice.same guy works on my boat.you can trust what he posts.
 

drewmorton

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Be sure that all penetrations into the hull are at minimum bedded in 5200. Not sure if your grady has the aluminum angle iron along the top of the transom, but if so, remove it and re-caulk it. You can also check the top of the transom at that time. For screws, the best thing would be to overdrill the hole and mix up some cabosil and get that in there, then drill the proper size and re-screw. Then, your screw goes only into the resin, rather than the wood. Top-of-the-line boats are built with wood everyday, the key is keeping it dry, and it will last a long, long time. Even a million dollar boat, with improperly sealed hull penetrations will have rotted wood after a while. Some makers advertise wood-free construction, but if water gets in between the fiberglass and composite, and then freezes, you have de-lamination. Thats no good either.
 

plymouthgrady

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Unless you drive your boat very hard and do minimum maintanence, I'd be very surprised if you have transom rot/issues. That 'vintage' is not really old at all. Have it looked at if you're concerned before you start doing "assumption" repairs. My '92 Seafarer is rock solid. (Knock on transom wood)!
 

drewmorton

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Have it looked at if you're concerned before you start doing "assumption" repairs.

I prefer to think of it as "preventative maintenance" rather than repairs. A little preventative maintenance, and you wont have to do repairs, assumption or otherwise, to your boat for a long time.

Just my .02
 

CatTwentyTwo

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Thanks for the replies. The only penetrations into the hull are what the factory made and sealed except for the kicker bracket and transducer that I mounted. I used 4200 to seal to seal those holes, I was afraid that 5200 might be to hard to remove. I do have the aluminum angle iron on the top of the transom but it doesn't look like it will come off unless I lift the motor up. Is there a trick to removing it that I am missing?
Thanks again for the help.
Randy
 

BobP

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Perhaps you want t have a fiberglass guy evaluate the condition of your transom, there will be nominal fee.
Ask him if he can verify the transom is dry and not wet or rotted, and what would it cost to do such an evaluation. That you are concerned with safety of the boat. Ask a few shops the same and also ask what their experience is in Gradys, specifically.

I never read of a specific problem with a specific vintage Grady.
Grady screws up boats from time to time from a quality perspective, if it is a quality issue associated with not sealing the wood properly in the hull or transom, how you use the boat is not going to do anything to correct the problem. And once water enters, it can never leave or sry out by itself.

Quality screw-ups are more related to lack of quality contriol measures adequate enough to catch workers not following specs, taking short cuts, or leaving out entire build procedures when showing up for work on day after an all night bender.

I never read anything about Grady screw-ups being design related except on a few new models that Grady introduced, these design issues usually show up soon after purchase and reported to Grady. Sometime poor design issues are related to assembly specs setting up a worker to screw up, but here again didn't read much on this, if any it was minor.
l
For different reasons, marine service mechanics as well as owners can screw up boats if installations involving penetrations into the transom or stringer grid are not sealed properly.

If someone wants to neutralize any possibe screw up at the factory, they would have to remove hundred of fasteners and the like into wood structures and reseal all over again with a proper procedure. If someone wants to assure professionals like mechanics and the like don't do the same, do it yourself, then you know it is done right.
 

uncljohn

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Besides external fittings, the bilge drain tube will eventually corrode and water will get into the transom that way.

My boat's transom issues were the kicker bracket that had pulled loose and this bilge drain tube. Also, where the controls and all passed thru the tramson, that wood was not sealed at all, so the rubber boot only kept some of the water out. I have an 88, so you aren't that much younger.

Replacing the bilge drain tube isn't normal maintainence. And it doesn't corrode due to hard use. While your boat might not be 'vintage', it is 14 years old, which is reaching the life-expectency of vinyl thru-hulls and hoses and such.
 

CatTwentyTwo

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I pulled that rubber boot that uncljohn mentioned off and it is not bare wood, but looks like it might just have a coat of white paint on it. I will put some sealant on it tomorrow. I am going to remove the angle iron also and seal that area. I have read that you can put a block under the motor leg and then jack up the trailer tongue to lift the motor a bit. Does that sound reasonable? I will leave a couple of bolts on loose of course.
 

cdwood

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Your not gonna get much if any seperation between motor and transom with the bolts still in place. I would remove engine completely, get a good look at what your up against, repair what needs to be done and glass transom cap. This is the only wat your gonna be done with it.
 

Brad1

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ryoung said:
I pulled that rubber boot that uncljohn mentioned off and it is not bare wood, but looks like it might just have a coat of white paint on it. I will put some sealant on it tomorrow. I am going to remove the angle iron also and seal that area. I have read that you can put a block under the motor leg and then jack up the trailer tongue to lift the motor a bit. Does that sound reasonable? I will leave a couple of bolts on loose of course.

If you mess with the motor mount bolts, you will then need to reseal them as well.

But why go to all the trouble? The boat is already 14 yrs old. If there is a way for water to get in, it's already done so. And if that is the case, all your doing to do is seal the moisture in. That won't solve anything. If water hasn't gotten in, leave well enough alone. If I were in your shoes, I would just use and enjoy the boat. If somewhere down the line you encounter a problem, address it then. Yes, some Gradys have experienced transom problems (just like other brands), but they are well worth a transom replacement if it should ever need done. Besides, if that's the original engine on that boat, it's only a matter of time before your looking at a repower. When that time comes, after you've taken the old motor off (but before you installed the new one), that would be the time to address any transom issues (if there are any).
 

Michigan Brian

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THANK YOU BRAD

for some common sense on this!!!

I just bought the same bought, a 94 Adventure 208.

It was looked over closely before purchase. I would not go though the trouble of removing the motor just to reseal this transom cap on my vessel! In my opinion you are just asking for trouble.

As far as the hole where the motor controls run though, thats not the transom. Thats the splashwell. The trasnom is a totally different part than that....I really cant see that being a transom strength issue...

It looks fine, I would rather not distrub the exisiting seal and monkey with it.

Not that there arent good suggestions on this from people with a lot of knowledge, I just would not mess with it.

Just enjoy the boat, if you need to worry about something, worry about a wheel bearing with a leaking seal or something LOL

Brad, I think you are the same Brad1 on Walleye Central?? If you are, you know me, by the name of perchjerker ;)
 

CatTwentyTwo

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Thank you to all who replied for all the information, but I think that I will take Brads advice. The motor is a 175 Johnson and it has two plastic covers over the upper engine mounting bolts held on with two screws each. I managed to twist one of the screws off yesterday just removing the covers. I hate to think about the trouble I could get myself into if I try to remove the motor. Like I said originally, I have read about this issue on different boating sites. I just didn't know if it is a real issue or just another internet story that takes on a life of it's own. Kind of like the VRO pump on my motor. The motor should have seized up 13 years ago if the pump was as problematic as what I read about it.
Anyway, thanks again.
Randy
 

Michigan Brian

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excellent

you will think of other stuff to worry about believe me LOL

I drove 6 hrs to buy mine sight unseen. It worked out fine, I love the boat

but talk about stuff to worry about LOL
 

Brad1

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Michigan Brian said:
Brad, I think you are the same Brad1 on Walleye Central?? If you are, you know me, by the name of perchjerker ;)

That's me. How you doing Perchjerker?
 

Brad1

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ryoung said:
Kind of like the VRO pump on my motor. The motor should have seized up 13 years ago if the pump was as problematic as what I read about it.
Anyway, thanks again.
Randy

VROs got a bad rap from the problems they had when they first came out. After several years, they got those problems ironed out. At least for the most part.

If you've got a '94, check your oil line. Back in that era they were using a vinyl line which would eventually get hard and crack. They have a replacement line which is much more flexible. Keep the oil tank clean and make sure water doesn't get into it.

I've had a couple VROs and never had a problem with them. In addition to my Grady, I have a 16 ft side consol alumnim boat that I use for the small, local inland lakes. The main motor on that boat is a '94 Evinrunde 60 hp. Never had a problem with the VRO. It did have the nylon oil hose which I replaced. On a 1990 90hp Johnson I owned, I had a problem with the factory clamps breaking. But OMC sent me an entire clamp set free of charge so I could address that problem.
 

capecodder86

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Hi guys, I'm new to the forum. I am going to go look at a 1994 209 Escape with a 200 evinrude on it. What kind of field tests can i perform righ there on the spot to see if its has problems or not? How to I check for transom rot?
 

capecodder86

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so what some have said on this post is instead of classing the transom cap over( which i haev no clue would cost in the northeast), I can just remove the alunium strip and seal it with 5200?
 

gw204

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capecodder86 said:
so what some have said on this post is instead of classing the transom cap over( which i haev no clue would cost in the northeast), I can just remove the alunium strip and seal it with 5200?

Recaulking it is the cheap way out. Do it right. Do it once. Glass it!!! :)