Which way does the stuid fuel filter go?

RussGW270

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I have both engines open and am swapping things out, and lo and behold, the idiots that worked on it before had one fuel filter one way and the other filter the exact opposite. I can find tons of pictures of filters, put together, sold separately. etc.. but nothing with which way the filter goes.

This is the filter. Can someone please tell me which way, cone in or tail in first? It looks like it is tail in first, but those red rings that show water levels, could get caught under the tails and not actually rise that way, it looks like. I could be wrong. The one I already worked on was cone first.

Thanks.

Sorry, keep finding tons of missing parts, bolts not standard etc... made 4 trips to the store just today.

Russ
 
Never mind, just found a diagram.

Thanks

For future reference: tail first. So, taking the other back off and fixing it... gggrrr
 

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That poor boat. Atleast it’s getting a dry dock home soon to never see the out doors again.
 
Yea, funny.

Okay, fuel and oil filters and oul and o-rings and plugs etc swapped.

Tomorrow will be the fuel separators. Then I can run them each about 30 minutes and then re-test the compression and see how it tests. Should either be unchanged,or back up to 150-ish.

Russ
 
When I install that style filter, I remove the whole assembly from the engine. I turn the filter head upside down and insert the o ring end of the filter into the filter head. I put the red water ring over the tail and spread them apart a little. Then with the unit still upside down, press the bowl over the filter with a lubed up o ring til it is completely seated. Then screw on the retaining nut and lock it up with the 10mm wrench. This ensures that both o rings are seated and the water ring will not get stuck under the tail.
 
Exactly what I ended up doing. I think it is a funky design, but my issue was the fact the one engine was upside down heh.

All is well now.

I did not start the engines yet as I want the fuel separators replaced tomorrow before I try as I do not want any contaminates to pass into the engine.

I really want to power wash the inside of the engine housing, just not sure if that is wise. There is some oil and dirt buildup and I really want to clean all that out heh.

Will know more tomorrow after I swap the rest of the parts out, but pretty confident the engines will run well.

R
 
Have u taken a fuel sample from the tank. It
Might have almost two year old fuel in it???
 
I wouldn’t power wash the inside. You can lightly wash the pan with degreaser and a bottle brush. Let it run out. Sometimes I use a blow gun to clean the drains while washing the pan. The drains are in the rear of the pan. Looks like rubber holes the size of a dime. Once it is blown dry, You can use a can of brake cleaner and a compressed blow gun to spray out the gunk. Blow the air and spray at the same time as a pressure mix to Blast the pan and surrounding areas. Make sure you grease up the shift shaft , tilt, and steering. Also the cables. There is a zurk fitting under the motor for the shift shaft that likes to bind if not greased. Then spray the motor with a corrosion x, t9 or a good corrosion spray.
 
If the gas is about a year old (non ethanol gas) add some sea foam and k100 to it along with some fresh non ethanol gas. If it has ethanol in it, and it is 3 to 6 months old, pump it and Use it in a lawn mower or something that is not too expensive to replace. If older than 6 months, dispose of it.
 
The engines are running fine, not worried about the gas, but thanks.

@Sparkdog118 I'll do the degreaser and such, thanks.
 
Yea, funny.

Okay, fuel and oil filters and oul and o-rings and plugs etc swapped.

Tomorrow will be the fuel separators. Then I can run them each about 30 minutes and then re-test the compression and see how it tests. Should either be unchanged,or back up to 150-ish.

Russ
What does changing the filters have to do with compression? Did I miss something?
 
Not sure if it is available in your area, but oil eater degreaser works the best out of all the ones on the market. It will also clean the deck amazingly. Fingerprints wipe right off the fiberglass. I use a 50/50 water mix I get mine at a local tractor supply store.
 
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What does changing the filters have to do with compression? Did I miss something?

Sorta..., I was in the process of doing the entire maintenance and, in the process of doing so, I checked compression. If you are going to swap an oil filter, the fuel filter is a pain to get to with it on, so you want to swap that as well. If you are doing oil, you want to swap the plugs. If swapping the plugs, you'd want to take the time to check compression, before and after.

So, it is all related. imo.

I am sure there will be those that find fault in that, but it is a process "I" follow and so, for me, it is all related.

Russ
 
I can sort of understand the logic in doing a test based on your thought process but what I was asking was why you think it might be different (and higher) than before? Wishful thinking perhaps:)
 
Well, if the oil was metallic or silver, it would be due to shavings etc from the block. This would generally indicate there is a cylinder that is worn or such and a pretty big issue. Since the oil was a general/standard bark brown-ish, the psi "could" be due to rings being stuck, perhaps the engine sat too long in a position where they were seized and by running some engine / oil cleaner, it could "could"... loosen that up. By adding Restore, it adds a little extra chance what any slight gaps or wear can be 'filled in', for lack of terminology, and, with a little work/run time, it could very well bring those rings and seals back to life.

Also to add, at 90psi, you would assume there would be some misfiring or other indication a cylinder had an issue. The engine runs as smooth and quiet as the other... so.. again.. short of a rebuild, well worth 20 bucks to see how it comes out.

It is a small chance, but since the oil was clean as it was, and it is only one cylinder... it is worth a shot.

I will not know for a week now as I had to cut the fuel lines to get the separators off, and the fittings are larger on the stainless mount so I need to order about 10ft of fuel line and new either ss or brass fittings. No sense adding aluminum fittings to a stainless mount.

R
 
I'm interested in what the before and after measurements are.
 
I will let you know as soon as I know. For now, have to wait on fuel line and fittings. I’d hate to use the fittings these came with, but if the fuel lines did not need replacing, I’d have done it..now, in for a dime.

So, next week...same bat time..
 
For reference, btw...I would be willing to bet these have been in the boat for a lot of years....and I mean a LOT...
 

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Seriously ugly. At least the innards are clean based on the look from the top. I used to write the dates of install on my filters but now just note the changes in the ship log.
Did you by any chance, dump the contents of those filters into a clear container and see what settles out if anything?
 
Same here. I keep a log of all changes and numbers. I even have a video of starting this but figured people would find more to rip so deleted it heh.

I poured it out. The smell was fine and there was no water or sediment, except all the crud that fell out when I tilted the tops. It seriously was bubbling on the sides and crumbling.

Now, with all stainless, swapping filters each year or so will not be a big deal. The initial cost was worth it.

For reference, if you buy an OEM mount, they are 1/4 to 1/4, but most aftermarkets are 3/8 to 1/4, so harder to replace, hence another delay, but worth the wait. Can’t order anything for a week or wife will beat me lol, but I plugged all the lines and made a list and will order soon. Should be ready for the July 4th weekend, in time for me NOT to go out lol....will see. Wife and kids will be visiting her mom so who knows.

R