Windlass Installation

OMER

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Thanks to everybody for their replys. This is the info I received from GW. On the 208 with a pulpit a horizontal windlass can be installed. 1. remove the lifting eye bolt from the foredeck and the corresponding threaded bolt which is attached to a metal frame below the foredeck. 2. mount the windlass as far back on the pulpit as possible. 3. The foredeck and pulpit do not need additional support, it is already there. 4. The metal plate which the threaded bolt was attached to is directly below the windlass, make a metal come to place over the structure to insure the rode falls free. 5. Lewmar said no to the question of offsetting the windlass to fall to the left of the metal plate.

I'll see what happens.....

Thanks again

I did like that!
IMG_20200611_183906.jpegIMG_20200611_183302.jpeg
 
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wrxhoon

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Dang it!!!! Ya'll costing me more money. I'm looking into a windlass install for myself now. I can see it's benefits especially since I'm pretty much by myself when it comes to boat operations and anchoring, even when the wife and some of my buddies are on board. Only have one guy I trust to help with anchoring, but he's not always with me. Catching bait in SC in the channel and sandbars in Florida, I can see the benefit.

For sand/mud anchoring,,, what anchor is needed/preferred? Delta plow or Fortress fluke?
I have a 25 lb Manson supreme, came with the boat , a good all rounder works on sand and reef. I only anchor for livies.
 

Rustygaff

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Thank you. Do you happen to know what gage wire feeds the buss bar. The installation manual states that the winlass needs #6 wire from the battery to the machine to keep the wire from overloading.
Since my boat was pre-wired at the factory for the windlass option, I believe they ran #4 wire from the batteries up to the bus. They left the windlass harness inside the console coiled up and ziptied for future use.
 

Rustygaff

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Dang it!!!! Ya'll costing me more money. I'm looking into a windlass install for myself now. I can see it's benefits especially since I'm pretty much by myself when it comes to boat operations and anchoring, even when the wife and some of my buddies are on board. Only have one guy I trust to help with anchoring, but he's not always with me. Catching bait in SC in the channel and sandbars in Florida, I can see the benefit.

For sand/mud anchoring,,, what anchor is needed/preferred? Delta plow or Fortress fluke?
I mounted a Lewmar 14# DTX and it works great in sand/mud. If you go this route, I suggest you use the Lewmar 8-plait chain/rode. I found that their splice goes through the windlass easier than some of the other line that is out there.
 

Ky Grady

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I mounted a Lewmar 14# DTX and it works great in sand/mud. If you go this route, I suggest you use the Lewmar 8-plait chain/rode. I found that their splice goes through the windlass easier than some of the other line that is out there.

Thanks. I had already looked into the chain/rode from Lewmar and was going with it. Also like the looks of the DTX. What did you use to connect anchor to chain? Standard clevis? Rode length?
 

seasick

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Since my boat was pre-wired at the factory for the windlass option, I believe they ran #4 wire from the batteries up to the bus. They left the windlass harness inside the console coiled up and ziptied for future use.
The gauge of the cables for the windlass depend on mostly two factors: The actual draw of the windlass ( not the same as the recommended breaker necessarily) and the total round trip length of the cables.
If tying into the existing buss at the helm, the cables from the buss to the battery have to be sized for the windlass load as well as all the normal accessory loads. The manufacturer can help with the windlass current draw info.
 

Rustygaff

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Thanks. I had already looked into the chain/rode from Lewmar and was going with it. Also like the looks of the DTX. What did you use to connect anchor to chain? Standard clevis? Rode length?
I use Lewmar 8-plait 1/2" x 200' x 15' 1/4" chain. I attached the chain to the anchor with a stainless swivel.
 
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Bill Davis

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Angle aluminum,,,right. ! As for the cable run, am I correct in stating that the total cable footage for calculation of wire guage is the "round trip" distance...battery to solenoid, to windlass (+), and back to battery (-). Lewmar manual for the pro fish 700 list the following .... CABLE SIZING FOR LENGTH OF CABLE RUN up 40 ft 10 AWG-----for 41-to 66" it is 8 awg. (They allow for a 10% voltage drop).

HOWEVER,..... on the outside of the box at West Marine, same windlass, there is a wire selection chart and it calls for 6 AWG at 41'. On my 208 I figure the total run will be 40' plus, with the twists and turns. So If i can get a black and red 6 AWGs in the access tube I will use the 6 AWG.
 

Bill Davis

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I just noticed that the cable requirements for the Lewmar verticle 700 differ from the Lewmar profish 700 horizontal. The v700 calls for 6 awg at 31' and the 700 horzontal cals for 8 awg for 41' to 66'.

That will prompt a telephone call to Lewmar tech support. Why ?

Thanks again
 

seasick

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I just noticed that the cable requirements for the Lewmar verticle 700 differ from the Lewmar profish 700 horizontal. The v700 calls for 6 awg at 31' and the 700 horzontal cals for 8 awg for 41' to 66'.

That will prompt a telephone call to Lewmar tech support. Why ?

Thanks again
When I looked at the installation doc, bot the vertical and horizontal call for 6 gauge cable for a 40 foot total run. What doc did you see that said 8G for the horizontal?
 

Bill Davis

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Seasick.....thanks for the input. I just spoke with Lewmar in CT. Called them to address their content in the product manual for the Pro series / horizontal 700 fish windlass, specifically the required cable selection. Their on-line manual recommends 8 awg for a 41 to 66' cable run. (This allows for a 10% power drop).

I was advised that since the publication of this document Lewmar has changed the recommended cable size to 6 AWG for the 41-63" cable run for the 700 horizontal series.

That new cable size is reflected in the current documents for the verticle windless, but they have not yet made the change to the documents for the horizontal series. However, the outside of the box for the 700 horizontal does recommend 6 AWG.

Thanks to all....the Forum was right !!!
 

Pamacme

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Hi,
Did you add the pulpit? I have a 1991 Seafarer and the previous owner mounted the windless and I am having issues with the bow flexing. He used small washers under the deck. I am trying to figure out the best way to fix my problem.
 

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Ky Grady

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Just a FYI. West Marine is running a sale starting on the 25th. Lewmar Windlass is 30% off. I'm picking one up in Bradenton when I'm down next week. Got it reserved, 700 Pro-Fish.

lew6656411108-102-2t.jpg
 

glacierbaze

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Hi,
Did you add the pulpit? I have a 1991 Seafarer and the previous owner mounted the windless and I am having issues with the bow flexing. He used small washers under the deck. I am trying to figure out the best way to fix my problem.
Seeing those cracks under the bow roller, your problems go deeper than just flexing.
 

OMER

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Hi,
Did you add the pulpit? I have a 1991 Seafarer and the previous owner mounted the windless and I am having issues with the bow flexing. He used small washers under the deck. I am trying to figure out the best way to fix my problem.
No, I bought the boat with the pulpit,I agree with Glaciebaze, your problem is more serious than flexing.Something must be done quickly, before it gets worse
 

Bill Davis

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Question to the forum. Moving ahead with the Lewmar 700 ( which is now on sale). On my 208, I fiddled with a wire snake for 2 hours trying to get through the access tube. Efforts from the helm to the stern and the stern to the helm did not work. So, I looked at an alternative, running the wire from the battery up to the starboard gunnel and forward to the helm where I would mount the solenoid. It is easy access there to the anchor locker. At all times the wire would be out of site and be attached to the bottom of the deck via wire ties.

Any issue here ??
 

Sparkdog118

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Hi,
Did you add the pulpit? I have a 1991 Seafarer and the previous owner mounted the windless and I am having issues with the bow flexing. He used small washers under the deck. I am trying to figure out the best way to fix my problem.
1/2 in aluminum plate as large as you can get into the area would help.
I did this for my hardtop in the cabin. Stopped all my problems with flex and leaks.
 

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