I have an 1989 overnighter 20 , I would like to install a windlass and bow roller for the anchor. Does anyone have any experience on this matter. Do I need a pulpit, I believe it's called, or can I just mount a anchor bow roller? Will I have room on deck for the windlass or will I have to modify the existing anchor hold hatch to mount it on? Better yet, is there a factory kit for this?
Windlass on an overnighter
- Thread starter Scott89gw
- Start date
Check out this link http://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/S ... r-Windlass
There is good info on windlass. I just had one installed on my GW Sailfish. In my opinion your better off having a pulpit installed. Its not necessary but it will hold the anchor away from your boat a bit more while retrieving it. There are several different styles of windlass system. You have to decide which style is best for your boat
There is good info on windlass. I just had one installed on my GW Sailfish. In my opinion your better off having a pulpit installed. Its not necessary but it will hold the anchor away from your boat a bit more while retrieving it. There are several different styles of windlass system. You have to decide which style is best for your boat
Depending on the 'slope' of the bow keel, you may not be able to use just an anchor roller or the anchor will hit the bow. On my Sea Ray, I didn't need a pulpit when I added a windlass, but the keel is sloped quite a bit more than the typical Grady.
How much drop do you have in the anchor locker? Is it enough to allow for the falling/coiling of the rode? Check out some windlass manuals for their specs. Just guessing, but you'll probably need a horizontal.
How much drop do you have in the anchor locker? Is it enough to allow for the falling/coiling of the rode? Check out some windlass manuals for their specs. Just guessing, but you'll probably need a horizontal.
Thanks guys! I found a horizontal used power winch sport fish 450 and a lewmar anchor roller. I have decided I need a pulpit too. This will make the project more involved ...... But it's probably the right thing to do. Anybody have any input about adding pulpits and the retrofitting the rails?
Check the underside of the area you're going to mount the pulpit/windlass and see what the structure is like. You may or may not need to add any reinforcement. If there's at least a 1/2" piece of plywood there, glassed in, and depending on how much of the underside area it covers, you might be good to go with just your backer hardware. You could always add a little more, though, too. Best practice, when you cut a hole, is to oversize it then fill with thickened epoxy, then redrill the correct size. That way the wood is completely protected from water intrusion. You could also drill the proper size hole, then dig out a 1/4" of the core and then fill the void.
Are you sure you need to change your bow rails? Couldn't the pulpit slip out between the two forward stanchions. Then remount the bow light up top, or use side-mount lights. You'll also need to mount a new cleat, just off center of the anchor rode. I'm not sure if you have skene chocks and/or their current placement, but they may need to be moved.
Do you have a picture or your bow area? That may help me visualize what you're getting into.
What the anchor locker floor like in your boat? Do you need to build an actual floor and add drains?
Are you sure you need to change your bow rails? Couldn't the pulpit slip out between the two forward stanchions. Then remount the bow light up top, or use side-mount lights. You'll also need to mount a new cleat, just off center of the anchor rode. I'm not sure if you have skene chocks and/or their current placement, but they may need to be moved.
Do you have a picture or your bow area? That may help me visualize what you're getting into.
What the anchor locker floor like in your boat? Do you need to build an actual floor and add drains?
Thank you for your advice! I like the idea of over sizing the holes ,epoxy then re drilling. I can't find how to post pics here yet. If you think of a walk around (overnighter 20), with the walking path, the bow area is small. The anchor hold ,close to that the bow cleat, then the light at the tip.
Do you have any recommendations for pulpits? I see quite a few selections Online. I would plan on separating into lights on either side.
The anchor hold, which will hold the rope and chain if I follow through with this, has a drain. The rail I don't feel I have to do , but think it will look better.
At this point I'm researching pulpits. There's fiberglass, starboard, teak etc.
Thanks, Scott
Do you have any recommendations for pulpits? I see quite a few selections Online. I would plan on separating into lights on either side.
The anchor hold, which will hold the rope and chain if I follow through with this, has a drain. The rail I don't feel I have to do , but think it will look better.
At this point I'm researching pulpits. There's fiberglass, starboard, teak etc.
Thanks, Scott
Sounds like your bow area is an improvement over mine. I don't have an anchor locker hatch, nor an actual floor. So from that standpoint, you're ahead! As far pulpit's go, I've never even looked at pre-made ones - I would just make it. Not sure if I'd use a couple layers of epoxy/glass laminated 3/4" marine ply, or starboard. Since it doesn't need to stick out too far (and you can use the angled slop of the bow, down towards the rubrail, for extra support), I think I might lean towards starboard.
FYI, don't skimp on the wires/cables - get good quality, tinned, marine cable. The same goes for all of the connections - don't use the stuff from a local hardware store. If I remember correctly, when I added a windlass to my Sea Ray, I probably had $300+ in wire/connections/adhesive shrink/master power switch/bow foot switches/etc. With the extensive rake/angle of the bow on my Sea Ray, I only needed a good anchor roller - no pulpit needed.
Just for fun (I added the faux teak as an extra little "pizzaz")...
FYI, don't skimp on the wires/cables - get good quality, tinned, marine cable. The same goes for all of the connections - don't use the stuff from a local hardware store. If I remember correctly, when I added a windlass to my Sea Ray, I probably had $300+ in wire/connections/adhesive shrink/master power switch/bow foot switches/etc. With the extensive rake/angle of the bow on my Sea Ray, I only needed a good anchor roller - no pulpit needed.
Just for fun (I added the faux teak as an extra little "pizzaz")...
Based on my boat, I assume there is no more "deck" area behind the locker hatch? You'll probably want to:
-- Reinforce the underside of the locker hatch if there's not already enough meat/thickness to it
-- Depending on how much reinforcement is underneath the cleat area, you may need to remove the existing and go larger to properly support the pulpit
-- Play around with where to remount the bow cleat - possibly straddled between the forward deck area and the hatch... maybe all the way onto the hatch depending on exact placement of the windlass (which should be roughly above the deepest portion of the locker
-- The locker hatch should be screwed down
-- I think you may be able to leave the chocks where they are
It's definitely going to be tight up there, especially with a horizontal windlass. I would suggest (before you do any modifications or removals) either getting your hands on one, or making a cardboard box into roughly the same shape as the windlass and play around with it up there, see where everything is going to go.
-- Reinforce the underside of the locker hatch if there's not already enough meat/thickness to it
-- Depending on how much reinforcement is underneath the cleat area, you may need to remove the existing and go larger to properly support the pulpit
-- Play around with where to remount the bow cleat - possibly straddled between the forward deck area and the hatch... maybe all the way onto the hatch depending on exact placement of the windlass (which should be roughly above the deepest portion of the locker
-- The locker hatch should be screwed down
-- I think you may be able to leave the chocks where they are
It's definitely going to be tight up there, especially with a horizontal windlass. I would suggest (before you do any modifications or removals) either getting your hands on one, or making a cardboard box into roughly the same shape as the windlass and play around with it up there, see where everything is going to go.