Windlass

Ralph27

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Would like to install a Windlass on my 1990 252 Sailfish, does anyone have any recommendations as to type & installation. Thaks
 

ocnslr

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Far too many variables to give you real specifics.

Will say that vertical windlasses require a lot more "fall" into the locker than horizontal windlasses. This is the distance below the deck to the top of the stack of rode. So, I strongly recommend that you look at horizontal windlasses, even though vertical models are nicer looking.

Also, since you will likely need to replace your anchor rode, and will need to have the chain spliced to the rode, I recommend you consider 8-plait line instead of 3-strand. It "falls" from the windlass much easier, drops like chain into a bucket, and takes up far less space in the locker. We went from 300-ft of 3-strand nylon rode and 30-ft of chain to 600-ft of plaited rode and 30-ft of chain. Rodes were both 1/2" and chains 1/4".

Brian
 

Ralph27

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Thanks Brian, your thoughts will be very helpful. I'll start looking at the horizontal units first. Any thoughts to the "power", or just go with the boat lengths. Do you have a mfg. you like, not fussy w/r/t cosmetics....I prefer to put my money into a solid, reliable unit that someone has had good luck with. Thanks again, oh yes, serious fishing machine you have there.......be well.
 

ahill

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My 272 has a Horizon 500. About the same as Lewmar.
Works great.
Make sure you install a swivel at anchor and do not use the winch to keep the anchor tensioned in the pulpit or secure the boat at anchor.
Install a chain tensioner and always cleat off the rode when anchored.
 

ocnslr

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ahill said:
My 272 has a Horizon 500. About the same as Lewmar.
Works great.
Make sure you install a swivel at anchor and do not use the winch to keep the anchor tensioned in the pulpit or secure the boat at anchor.
Install a chain tensioner and always cleat off the rode when anchored.

We also have a Horizon unit, the same 500 model. I concur complete with the comments above.

This photo shows where I mounted the breaker and the control toggle switch.
Windlass1.JPG


A view of the bow arrangement.
Bow-1.jpg


This shows how I lock the chain, and the cleat that is used to tie off the rode when anchored.
Bow-2.jpg


Another view.
Bow-3.jpg


Grady "pre-wired" our boat for a windlass. That meant wiring had been run from the helm area to the bow. I found where it was at both ends and did use this wiring.

However, when I asked GW about the supply side, they indicated that they simply took power from the power already at the helm. This would mean that I was feeding a 25-amp breaker and load from the main 40-amp supply at the helm. No wonder folks have electronics that shut off when they use the windlass...

Obviously, I didn't agree with the GW response on this, so I ran my own dedicated windlass supply wiring from the stern to the helm. Used a separate, 40-amp Blue Sea Systems surface mount breaker back aft, as required within a few feet of the power source, and still used the 25-amp breaker that came with the windlass.

Note that larger windlasses, the 600 and 700 series, use 40-amp breakers and I would never set these up without dedicated wiring from the house bank to the helm, then to the windlass.

NOTE: We have a proper SS swivel at the anchor, but these photos were taken before I added it.

Brian
 

ahill

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I haven't experienced a power drop but I like your direct wire solution.
I'll keep that in mind for the future.