Work while replacing fuel tank

[mlaforge]

I have a 1989 Tournament 19 that needs a fuel tank replacement this off-season (relatively soon in Maine). I've read older posts and have already contacted RDS aluminum. Any recommendations as to what other maintenance I should consider while I have the tank out? I'm considering a new fuel pump and the standard replacement of all lines up to the fuel filter. Everything on the other side of the fuel filter is new this year.

For all owners of older Gradys, what is the best way to clean up my bilge of sludge that is caked onto the walls? The last thing I want to do is compromise the fiberglass.

Thanks,

Matt

 

[drbatts]

not exactly familar with your model however the best advice would be to replace everything you have access to while your in there. You should leave no reason to have to open the belly of the boat up again. Everything should be open and you should have better access while the floor is up then you ever will again. Remember even if it looks good and is working now, it is 20+ years old.

 

[Curmudgeon]

I ran new fuel sender wiring for attachment in the future. 'Dirty Purple' or similar cleaners works great in the tank bay. Spray it on, let it soak, then hose it out, don't be afraid of using a little elbow. Thought about a pressure washer but was afraid of damage, and it would have been over-kill in my case. My '86 T-22 wasn't that bad even though it had a tank leak (reason for being in there to begin with) ... :wink:

 

[Scott W.]

While replacing my 1991 93-gallon gas tank this year, I used a great product to clean out the gas tank compartments and bilge areas - Greased Lightning Orange Blast Super Strength Degreaser. Purchased this great product (32 oz spray bottle) at an automotive supply store (Auto Barn) for just under $5.00. Walmart also carries this product. Spray it on and let it sit for a few minutes, then take a scrub brush with warm water and wash down area. You may have to do this process twice to remove all of the grime build up. This product can be diluted for smaller cleaning jobs - read label on spray bottle.

Good Luck!

 

[fatire]

Need to replace tank on my Tournament 19 and wondering what the trick or method is for removing the access panel in the floor which seems stuck. I've tried lifting up with one hand inside each access port but it's not moving. Tried prying a bit with large screw driver but don't want to crack the fiberglass. Prying with a piece of wood levered through one of the access ports seems like it could cause problems as well?
Thanks
Steve from NH

 

[Scott W.]

In my case, the floor panel is screwed into the floor and Silicone is filled in around the perimiter. After removing all of the screws, take a utility knife and slice down deep through the Silicone around the perimiter. Then take a flat screw driver and gently pry open the floor cover. Before putting back the floor panel, remove the old Silicone from the panel and floor. Then reseal with new Silicone.

 

[Grog]

Sometimes the covers can be a bear to remove, just work your way around and it'll come up.

As far as work, check the coring in the panel. If it's soft it may need to be re-cored (taking the old wood out and putting in new and glassing it). New hoses: fill, vent and supply. You can drill the hatch screw holes oversize and fill with thickened epoxy. This is so if the threads leak, no water will find it's way into your stringers.

 

[FlemIslGator]

When I replaced mine a couple years ago, (in addition to all hoses) I also primer'd the botoom half of the new tank with zinc chromate primer. The first tank lasted 20+ years, so can't really complain. But, the only bad corrosion was on the bottom. So figured some primer may get me 25 out of this one