Yamaha 150 trim/tilt component

corinthmistral

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I have a Yamaha F150 (2008) on my Sportsman 180. The trim tilt recently started leaking. I’ve found the source of the leak - pump manifold, and ordered replacement o rings. Have spent 2 days removing a stubborn bolt from it - horrendous job, due to aluminium+stainless+salt water! Anyway … I’m rebuilding the unit - it’s made by Showa, and the standard jn it used in most outboards of this size. Unfortunately one tiny component in the manifold got damaged and I need to replace it. I’m trying to find out what it’s called and where I can buy one - presuming it must be a standard sort of part in hydraulic systems. Maybe …

The part is sandwiched in the middle of the manifold (which sits between the electric hydraulic pump and the cylinder block. It is approx 8mm long and approx 6mm diameter. It has a collar in the middle. One end is tapered and contains a ball bearing, the other end has a tiny roll-pin in it (to stop the ball falling out.) It’s some kind of valve - one-way valve/check valve(?) This is the part I need to replace - can I buy the part only; can anyone tell me what it’s called?
Sorry, I didn’t take a photo, so am describing it as best as I can.
Thanks very much in advance.
 

DennisG01

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If you go to a site like SIM Yamaha, you can look up exploded diagrams for parts. You can buy from them, too. Another option could be to get a service manual.
 

corinthmistral

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That’s a great site. Very helpful, thank you.
 

seasick

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seasick

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A couple of other tips:
On my trim rams, the top most seals can be installed two ways. One way is correct and the other looks fine but will leak. This applies to seals that have a groove as opposed to a plain seal. The seal has to be installed with the groove facing down (into the cylinder so that oil pressure forces the seal to expand and seal. I think the diagram shows the orientation.

Secondly, if you used the manual pressure release screw on the port side of the assembly and it was really hard to move, you may want to pull it out and replace the seals. Note that there is a c clip that needs to be removed to unscrew the valve out.
 

Byram

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A couple of other tips:
On my trim rams, the top most seals can be installed two ways. One way is correct and the other looks fine but will leak. This applies to seals that have a groove as opposed to a plain seal. The seal has to be installed with the groove facing down (into the cylinder so that oil pressure forces the seal to expand and seal. I think the diagram shows the orientation.

Secondly, if you used the manual pressure release screw on the port side of the assembly and it was really hard to move, you may want to pull it out and replace the seals. Note that there is a c clip that needs to be removed to unscrew the valve out.
Sea, How do you get the c clip pliers in there to remove the clip ? Its a pretty small hole
 

Byram

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get ya some of that !! thanks
 

corinthmistral

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I rebuilt one of those units and by far it was the most painful repair I've done. You probably made the same mistake I did by damaging that valve when trying to separate the valve body. I had to drill/cut bolts. Parts are available (maybe) on boats.net
Try this link

There are several ball check valves so keep an eye out for them.
Thanks - that’s the one - part numbers 27/28/29. Yep, I exhausted all options on getting the third bolt out and couldn’t risk drilling it. I can rebuild the unit with a new non-return valve but have just ordered a reconditioned unit from 5 Star Marine. It’s not cheap, but neither is having the boat out of action for a decent chunk of our (very short!) U.K. summer. Have ordered those parts at the same time, so will rebuild at my leisure and keep it in case needed. Thanks for the help.