Yamaha engine

[Bill T.]

Good evening,
I have a 1987 Yamaha 150 ETXH I have a friend at the club that has a 1997 Yamaha 150 The question I have is, the zincs on my engine are way different than his. I have one small one on the mounting bracket, aprox. 1-1/2 inches long by 1/2 X 1/2. Also the trim zinc. The zinc on my friends engine is MUCH larger. Is there some place I can find out if a larger zinc can be added, like the 1997 engine?

Thanks in advance,
Bill T.

 

[wrobinson]

If you go over to the hull truth website there is a vendor called SIMM. Andy over there is very knowledgeable about all things yamaha.

If you can overwsize the zincs, he can ship them to you.

 

[Bill T.]

Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately I am new to this site.
How do I get to the Hull Truth site?

 

[blackdiamond296]

The Hull Truth

 

[Bill T.]

Thanks Much............... Found it.
HMmmmmm............... Now to find "SIMM"

 

[CJBROWN]

Andy has his own category over there...SIM is Shipyard Island Marine:
http://www.thehulltruth.com/forums/foru ... asp?fid=14

or email Andy directly: parts@shipyardisland.com
or call him: 800-213-3323

He's a great resource both for knowledge as well as parts and supplies.

BTW, there's a lot of good info over there for Yamahas just for browsing.

 

[Bill T.]

Yamaha

Thanks Chris. I will try that tomorrow.
Nice looking Grady. That a 20' , What year?

 

[Banana River View]

Bill.. why do you want to go to larger zincs? Are you having problems with the zincs eroding? Of course, that is what they are supposed to do if there is a galvonic situation but if they are not eroding fast I would not change... BRV

 

[Bill T.]

Yamaha

Thanks for the input BRV. I just got this boat and motor this fall. Haven't even had it in yet. I am just concerned with the fact that Yamaha went to larger zincs. Was there a problem? I will check around, Andy etc. The zincs that are on the engine now are getting eaten up, especially the trim one. The one on the mounting bracket isn't too bad. You know sir, I could just put on new ones and watch them. If there appears to be a problem I could just keep changing them out. They aren't all that much money. CHEAP INSURANCE. Thanks again. :idea:

 

[JUST-IN-TIME]

Re: Yamaha

Thanks for the input BRV. I just got this boat and motor this fall. Haven't even had it in yet. I am just concerned with the fact that Yamaha went to larger zincs. Was there a problem? I will check around, Andy etc. The zincs that are on the engine now are getting eaten up, especially the trim one. The one on the mounting bracket isn't too bad. You know sir, I could just put on new ones and watch them. If there appears to be a problem I could just keep changing them out. They aren't all that much money. CHEAP INSURANCE. Thanks again. :idea:

i bet you have cavitation problems if the trim zinc is eaten up

the one on the motor bracket takes most of the hit

how clean are they?
hoe does the prop look?

 

[Bill T.]

Thanks for the input Richie. I just purchased this boat at the end of the season. not familiar with it. Cavitation could be a problem. Don't know. I will find out next season once back in the water.

 

[catch22]

The steering trim tab zink will not cause cavitation problems, even if it's completely gone.
I lost one, (must have vibrated off) and the only problem was it caused a little steering torque..... that's what it's for.
I've heard it happens often too, (comes loose). Some people, including Yamaha dealers, recomend using a thread lock product, (like lock-tight).

As far as the zincs go, I'd stick with the original ones, and just keep an eye on them. If I'm not mistaken, the amount of zinc that's used, is in proprtion to the motor/rigging itself. If you have too much zinc in the mix, it can effect the process. As long as they are wearing away, they're doing there job. Replace them when needed, (50% spent). You also want to make sure the mounting surface is clean when you replace them, to ensure good contact, (sand, if necesary).

 

[Bill T.]

Thanks for the input. Sure are a lot of people out there that can help folks like me out. We just sold our 30' Tollycraft Sportfish and moved down to this Grady. We just were not using the big boat anymore. Kids all grown and all. I am sure once I get the Grady in the water things will just come together.

 

[JUST-IN-TIME]

The steering trim tab zink will not cause cavitation problems, even if it's completely gone.

no it will not cause it, but if is eaten up he might have cavitation problems coming from the prop

 

[BobP]

catch 22 - adding more anode weight in the same place (except the zinc trim tab) does no harm, it allows what you have to last longer between replacement. i.e., the huge zinc on the bottom of my Yamaha brackets had plenty of meat to last more than one season. The much smaller blocks on my old Johnnies made it through one season only.

As far as testing goes, use the multimeter continuity (buzzer) position to check for continuity between the anode and engine block, after it is installed.

A buddy of mine with an F225 on a Parker 25 also lost his trim tab zinc, didn't notice it in the steering.

 

[jimmy's marine service]

wow !!

The steering trim tab zink will not cause cavitation problems, even if it's completely gone.
I lost one, (must have vibrated off) and the only problem was it caused a little steering torque..... that's what it's for.
I've heard it happens often too, (comes loose). Some people, including Yamaha dealers, recomend using a thread lock product, (like lock-tight).

As far as the zincs go, I'd stick with the original ones, and just keep an eye on them. If I'm not mistaken, the amount of zinc that's used, is in proprtion to the motor/rigging itself. If you have too much zinc in the mix, it can effect the process. As long as they are wearing away, they're doing there job. Replace them when needed, (50% spent). You also want to make sure the mounting surface is clean when you replace them, to ensure good contact, (sand, if necesary).

you need to put loc-tite on the cavitation plate zinc,the wash from the prop will vibrate it off...it will never and i mean never cause a cavitation issue...were you guys aware of the fact that you can have too much zinc ??? didn't think so...stretching zincs out over a season is a bad idea...next time you get a chance,look at a zinc after it's been used for a season,if it "looks" ok,feel it....then pick up the exact new zinc...you will notice something,the new zinc weighs more,reason being,the old zinc lost it's mass....kinda like aluminum when you put the wrong paint on it there "bob p ",the zinc sacrifices it self to save the more noble metal....heard this before ???? :wink:

 

[catch22]

The steering trim tab zink will not cause cavitation problems, even if it's completely gone.

no it will not cause it, but if is eaten up he might have cavitation problems coming from the prop

Gotcha..... I missunderstood what you said. The thing is, how can you tell if it's from cavitation, or normal deterioration, (sacrificing)?

 

[JUST-IN-TIME]

The steering trim tab zink will not cause cavitation problems, even if it's completely gone.

no it will not cause it, but if is eaten up he might have cavitation problems coming from the prop

Gotcha..... I missunderstood what you said. The thing is, how can you tell if it's from cavitation, or normal deterioration, (sacrificing)?

it has pitts in it
corrosion will be like a powder

 

[BobP]

Let's discuss this sacrficial anode design issue, will save you DIY guys a few bucks if you want to, otherwise key out of this thread now.

Each anode weights a certain amount, let's say as an example - 1/2 lb. When the engine manufacturer designs the protection, he decides how much weight to use and where to locate them. Since engines are placed on boats with a wide range of usage, season length, trailered or not, shore power or not, salinity level of water, docks with poor or good grounding systems, the amount of anode used up per season will vary widely.

So, in your particular boat, in the exact slip you moor, the anodes can fret away faster than the same exact boat/engine on the other side of the marina.

All that matters, is that at the end of the season, you have not used up the weight and should have some remaining say 25% minimum of the original weight. If you have 75% of the original weight intact, then you can go another season on the same anode. My figures are conservative.
And it's not unusual for some of the anodes to fret away faster than others.

When I first bought my Sailfish, the Drive anode was used up per season, I added trim tab anodes, and now the drive anode goes two seasons easily.

Marinas and mechanics can't be bothered with evaluating anodes so they just replace them - heck, you are paying the bill - right? Why would they care what the added cost means to you ? (ie. "If you can't pay, you shouldn't be playing" nonsense)

The weight is what matters so it's hard to tell w/o removing it until you have some experience like I do, to be able to eyeball them. Yamaha did a good job with the huge anode on the brackets - and is very easy for me to eyeball, just have to lay on my back and look up. Poke it with a screwdriver to see if it is solid, so ahead.

Under no circumstance, should you ever allow any particular anode to be totally used up during the season because there is no metal left to sacrifice itself, and if anodes fret away faster than usual, investigate - something is wrong. Don't ignore this, you will pay big time later.

On the Yamaha trim tab anode if lost during the season don't sweat it, unless you keep your lower unit in the water down while moored vs. tilted up. However, on say an I/O, the anodes on the rams, if lost or totally fret away during the season, better get it replaced as soon as practical because the I/O is always underwater.

If the DIY guys have any specific anode questions - ask, and if you feel more comfortable PMing me, please do.

 

[Grog]

Don't worry too much about the cavation plate anode, it's even painted on some Evinrudes. There are different "types" for the Grady Drive, some are just bars and some are waffeled. The waffeled ones give the most protection but wear the fastest. Definitely watch the anode under the trim/tilt and the drive bracket (if equipped) if you're in a slip.