Yamaha tilt-support - do you use?

[Steds83]

Reviewing the owners manual for my LZ200Z and noticed that Yamaha recommends use of the tilt-support lever when tilting up the motors. Do you use this to support the motors?

It further instructs: be sure to retract the trim rods completely during mooring. This protects the trim rods from marine growth and corrosion.

So I followed these instructions today and noticed that one trim rod does not fully retract. Anyone know cause?

Noticed that the tilt rod is total exposed...

Also, using the tilt-support lever, the lower end of the motor now sits in the water - is this a problem?

Thanks.

 

[hotajax]

If the rod doesn't retract, check the fluid level in the reservoir. Most of the time it's just plain old automatic transmission fluid, but check your owner's manual. It's a little tricky getting the fluid in sideways - but find someone who works in a hospital and tell them to get you a 60 cc irrigation syringe or you'll break their knees. Or pm me and I'll steal one for you.

 

[antaris]

Was wondering the same... To be honest it feels a little precarious - since I get the feeling that the little tab may fold/break and I don't wanna know what will happen after that...

 

[seasick]

If you have three rods, they don't all go down at the same rate and time. It takes a fairly long time to retrack all three. I only use my supports when I am working on the motor from the underside. Each season, I apply a thin coat of marine grease to all the piston shafts. That helps reduce the effects of the elements. Ten years and so far so good. A lot of piston shaft corrosion you see is caused not by outside conditions but my moisture in the trim fluid that corrodes the parts from the inside.

 

[Tucker]

I do not retract the trim cyl shafts when the motors are up. Seems like to much pressure on the tilt supports, makes an ungoddly noise. I just put some grease on the piston rods every so often to protect them. I agree with contaminated fluid. I replace trim seals on port motor and flushed out all the old fluid. Looked pretty scrungee. It even sounds better.

 

[DaleH]

FWIW my brother has twin Yam 150s ('88 models) and he uses the mooring locks all the time. No issues with them or the trim system. He does not retract the rams when the OB is up.

These same engines turned screws for 51+ mph this season and he's getting 2.6 mpg @ high 20s, almost 30mpg, sub-4K cruise speed. Tough to kill Yam 2-strokes, less the lack of SS parts, which eventually led to their SW series.

 

[bayrat]

Re the lower part of the engine in the water. Lots of confusion there. Here's what I've been told:

Grady White- lower the engine all the way down because otherwise the zinc tab is not in the water and is not protecting the LU from galvanic corrosion.

Yamaha- keep that sucker up as high as you can. The less in the water the better. Neither of these guys convinced me that they were the ultimate authority on this subject. Actually I felt that no one had ever asked the question before.

What I've seen-Asked my marina guy what he thought. He showed me a four year old 275 Verado with a hole in the front of the LU. He said that engine didnt clear the water either.

What I've done- Spoke to some real world people who have the same issue . One guy had his in the water for almost 8 years without a problem. His solution was to paint that part with Trilux aluminum paint. I've heard the same from other people as well. I just sprayed it on this year without prep because it was a last minute thing and boat was ready to launch. Have to do a better job next year because its already starting to wear off. Bear in mind that these are opinions from a bunch of people who may or may not have a clue. I think it is definitely something to be concerned about and I put my trust in the guys who have actually dealt with it themselves. That verado wasnt pretty.

 

[Gman25]

Re the lower part of the engine in the water. Lots of confusion there. Here's what I've been told:

Grady White- lower the engine all the way down because otherwise the zinc tab is not in the water and is not protecting the LU from galvanic corrosion.

Not sure I agree with this theory because there is an even larger zinc piece that is bolted to the bottom of the outboard bracket that is always in the water when docked.

'05 300 Marlin F250's

 

[bayrat]

Re the lower part of the engine in the water. Lots of confusion there. Here's what I've been told:

Grady White- lower the engine all the way down because otherwise the zinc tab is not in the water and is not protecting the LU from galvanic corrosion.

Not sure I agree with this theory because there is an even larger zinc piece that is bolted to the bottom of the outboard bracket that is always in the water when docked.

'05 300 Marlin F250's[/quote

Yep. Which is why I started the post with "lots of confusion". That was the "official" Grady White response that day with that particular person. However I really cant say with any certainty that the zinc on the bracket extends protection to the leg itself or if they are considered separate entities needing separate protection.I just dont know the answer.The Yamaha guy didnt know the answer either. He just felt it was better to keep as much of the LU out of the salt water as possible from a corrosion point of view. I would assume that Verado had a bracket zinc as well and that didnt seem to help . As I said..I'll rely on the people that actually had the issue and do what works for them.

 

[Steds83]

So I made an informal survey at my marina tonight. Found around 10 boats with Yamaha outboards - 8 did not use the tilt-support and 2 did (these 2 boats are docked adjacent to each other - maybe sharing tips :idea: ). Most lower housings were completely out of the water (always if a single outboard - less weight at stern ?). I did notice that lower housings of many of other brands did touch the water. But there must be a right and wrong way to keep your motors raised...

 

[ElyseM]

fwiw, if your push rods are below the water line (some brackets on boats are actually higher and the trim cylinders are above water) and you're in saltwater; always retract them. the tilt locks are made to do this (not to trailer though). had a problem many moons ago when i didn't retract the rods. the rods corroded at the top of the cylinder and a very costly repair ensued. tech said to always retract the rods if they are in water; that way if they corrode, it's at the tip and will not have an impact on the operation of the tilt. good luck, ron

 

[Tucker]

My bracket anodes are there for life. Yea, got replacements this spring. First bolt broke off immediately. Those of us with the old girls are screwed. You guys with the new motors would be well advised to back out the anode bolts and put PTFE pipe dope on those threads or you'll be snapping bolts off.

 

[gradydriver]

Common real world sense would be that salt water = acid....keep everything you can from touching it.... :bang