Yes

[jehines3]

Pete, I like your work, but you are about to go to the wrong place with your ACR wire. They go to a negative connection, not positive. So skip the panel and go the negative bus its closer.

Screw the shrink connectors if you have to bodge a but splice in the circuit to get to the right connector, it is worse to use a butt splice then using a unshrink connector since you double the chance of failure with the splice. Put in a regular tinned Ideal lug of proper terminal even an untinned spade is better than adding an unnecessary splice IMO.

 

[Anonymous]

Yes.

 

[Anonymous]

Yes.

 

[Grog]

It's rated for under water line apps by shields but I wouldn't trust it. There is a decent run from the 3 way valve to the livewell and if the line got chaffed you wouldn't know it until it went. In spots where you can inspect it easily and change it OFTEN, you might be OK. For a hot or cold water system where the most you'll put in the bilge is 10 gallons OK but in my opinion it's cheap crap hose.

 

[jimmy's marine service]

[/quote]
we got a few more things here...and again,no offense !! so don't start beating up on me...
first...no heat shrink on the connectors-no good in my world...ALL connection should be heat shrink sealed...the screws should also be coated in liquid electric tape...screws on the buss bars...
second,wing nuts on batteries ??? no way...need lock nuts...
wouldn't use those fuse boxes there on a bet...

and the hose you're using...it doesn't matter..it's water hose,that's all...it's not for intake,it's not certified,and i wouldn't use it or reccomend it on a bet...

 

[Anonymous]

Yes.

 

[Anonymous]

Yes.

 

[jehines3]

Jimmy, I'm curious about your bad feeling about the blue seas marine panels installed. Yes, they are relatively cheap, but they are tinned bus and plastic, not much to go wrong, but want to know what I should look for. As for the Connectors, I have better wire and went tinned copper and used Ideal Tinned lugs. Electric Utilities (including mine) specificy this arrangement in outdoor electrical substations for controls.

As for the wing nuts that is just being lazy on my part, but I do torque tightnen them with a wrench.

Liquid electrical tape is just crap in a jar in my opinion. I use vulcanizing tape where appropriate. Covering anything on a bus makes any furture work a PITA. Especially on tinned bus, if you try and clean the tape goo the tinned layer is usually compromised.

My batteries connectors are shrink coated. I'll be adding split loom in the furture after I put my charger back and wire it back in. My Cathodic system is being removed and makes the port panel useless now. jh

 

[jimmy's marine service]

Jimmy, I'm curious about your bad feeling about the blue seas marine panels installed. Yes, they are relatively cheap, but they are tinned bus and plastic, not much to go wrong, but want to know what I should look for. As for the Connectors, I have better wire and went tinned copper and used Ideal Tinned lugs. Electric Utilities (including mine) specificy this arrangement in outdoor electrical substations for controls.

As for the wing nuts that is just being lazy on my part, but I do torque tightnen them with a wrench.

Liquid electrical tape is just crap in a jar in my opinion. I use vulcanizing tape where appropriate. Covering anything on a bus makes any furture work a PITA. Especially on tinned bus, if you try and clean the tape goo the tinned layer is usually compromised.

My batteries connectors are shrink coated. I'll be adding split loom in the furture after I put my charger back and wire it back in. My Cathodic system is being removed and makes the port panel useless now. jh

fuse blocks...personally,i don't like them,i prefer and use the ancor in line water proof fuse holders,you're gonna need 3 1 for each bilge pump float and 1 for the high water alarm...the liquid electric tape,the crap in a can,i use it to keep the screws in place-it will seal them and keep them from vibrating loose....the wire hold dows...try not to use those stick on style,the glue will fail...i like the style that you atach with a screw,then slide the zip tie through...
there's more than one way to skin a cat,everyone's gonna do things a slightly different way...personally,i stick to what adheres to abyc codes...there's professional shops out there that do terrible work,trust me,i've seen some hack jobs like you can't believe,jobs you guys are doing look good,looks like you guys are taking your time and trying to do the right thing...gotta love that :wink: :wink:
when are you guys coming down for a job ??? gotta new 31 contender coming in for a full rig up-electronics,fishin' equipment,dedicated battery system,the whole deal...with you 2,i could probably get this done in a day...so..let's go...get done what you're doing,we got work to do....

 

[GWcpa]

Thanks for the pics and write up. Any way you can mount those Flo-scan senders in line (and supported on the transom) with the other connection? The sender sticking out there unsupported with a hose connected has a lot of strain on the fitting.

I'd worry about it breaking off at the racor base.

Nice job. Very few places with money better spent than cleaning up the electrical systems.

Whoops, nevermind, I replied after just reading page 1, did not see the discussions on page 2. This has probably been addressed, and then some. Haven't read all the input, but I'm sure what you are doing is much better than what was there.

 

[jehines3]

Jimmy thanks for keeping any eye on me, I'll clarify so that nobody thinks I'm cutting corners.

All my "sticky" base wire holders have screws in them as per mfr instruction (they have a screw hole in the middle). I like the sticky bases cause only one person can fit in the compatment access, hold the screw, and operate the screwgun while holding the base in place hence the sticky backs are good for the initial hold in place part leaving two other hands for the screw part (and I had them already you caught me) :lol:

As for inline fuses I can't stand them. You missed about half of my battery connections though. Besides Bilge pumps, I have a cathodic system on each motor bracket (which I no longer need due to your paint advise), and my three battery charger inputs (I fuse the battery end for protection on the entire run). Once I put the charger back on, I'll add my split loom and tighten the tie wraps. I considered using panduit like they use in yachts, but the cost is high and not a real benefit for the low volume of wire. jh

 

[Anonymous]

Yes.

 

[jehines3]

Pete, I'm still using the OMC bases but have racor filters with Bowls. Do you think I should hchange them? I've not had any problems and since I get the benefit of using Racor elements with bowls, I'm happy, but do you think the housing shoudl go? Mine are a PITA to get to.

As for my floscans, the negative is actually run to my negative bus in my compartment (positives fomr the keys). I use the diode method discussed in the instructions for power form the key switches. The PO installed it and I fixed it. He used the "L" brackets for the sensors, but they are small and likely was overkill.

Lookin' good brother...jh

 

[whats a boat?]

Hi all...
I actually have have a Shamrock... 20 ft I believe... maybe 1985?(4)? Only the engine/bilge pumps/ exhaust are done... still need all electrical/ steering etc. The engine is a Ford 351... (Cleveland I believe) and an inboard. I will most likely be using hydraulic steering.

Im here because the previous owner intended to use a Grady White wiring Schematic for a 1984 / 88' or so. I was able to find one & download. He says they have the best wiring plans or layouts etc. Ive tried to find an already prepared harness instead of wiring every single piece or item separately... but havn't been able too. I'm sure I'm also adding much more than this 1984 schematic has?
After reading some of this stuff I'm wondeing if anyone would have a suggestion on what to do? I am absolutely clueless to any of it!! Talk about LOST!? :shock:
I've hardly ever even been on a boat & now I'm building one!

I was helping a friend who this boat was his life project... totally re-did fiberglass top to bottom down to new wood & stringers... beautifully!! Put gorgeous handrails & teak trim along the top edge. A marina was going to reposess it for money he owed for engine rebuild/install etc... so I paid the bill. He's fallen on VERY hard times & felt he had no choice but to sell it (although I didn't ask for money back anytime soon at all). It broke my heart... this was all he had... so I decided to buy it instead of a stranger... Ta-Da!... here I am!
HHHHEEEELLLPPPP.......... Pleeeease? Thanks for the listen & patience with my total inexperience!
Cathy

ps... what was i thinking?!

 

[Anonymous]

Yes.

 

[Anonymous]

Yes.

 

[jehines3]

Pete, just an FYI, The clear racor bowls are only for use above decks and not bilges and encloses spaces. That said, I have plastic bowls and mounted below decks. I think it is a stupid rule really sicne the clear bowls usually fog up when exposed to sunlight. They have metal bowls (which are not clear) for under decks if your concerned. I'm not since I can't see anything comming loose and breraking the bowl. jh

 

[catch22]

Pete, just an FYI, The clear racor bowls are only for use above decks and not bilges and encloses spaces. That said, I have plastic bowls and mounted below decks. I think it is a stupid rule really sicne the clear bowls usually fog up when exposed to sunlight. They have metal bowls (which are not clear) for under decks if your concerned. I'm not since I can't see anything comming loose and breraking the bowl. jh

The way I understood it was, the transparent bowls are approved for below decks, on "outboard" powered boats. They are not approved for below decks, on I/O or inboard powered boats.... because of the heat.

 

[Anonymous]

Yes.

 

[GWcpa]

Google "Racor below deck." Only the metal bowls are CG approved for this use. In practice the clear bowls are used below decks frequently.