Chart plotter and battery wiring question

SkunkBoat said:
I have 285... "medium duty" smaller 1/4" studs vs 5/16" .....either will work but if the House cable has a 1/4" ring terminal you will have to change it for use on a 187
Click to expand...

Totally overlooked that as a difference!

I am leaning towards the surface mount version as I don’t like not knowing the state mine is in without taking it apart.

Thoughts on surface vs panel mount?
 
amamola said:
Totally overlooked that as a difference!

I am leaning towards the surface mount version as I don’t like not knowing the state mine is in without taking it apart.

Thoughts on surface vs panel mount?
Click to expand...
If its going where the old one was its gonna be surface mount.
 
SkunkBoat said:
If its going where the old one was its gonna be surface mount.
Click to expand...

So I tried to take mine apart this morning to figure out if I should get the 5/16 or 1/4 version but could unscrew the the terminals to figure out...

Any recommendations on what I can use to loosen the screw? I cut out all of the solvent that was used to cover the terminal but still no luck.

Also, any idea if this version is 1/4 or 5/16? At this point it looks like I should just replace those cables as well.
 

Attachments

  • EF57662B-6DC9-4390-B111-6AF0BA0FBF1E.jpeg
    EF57662B-6DC9-4390-B111-6AF0BA0FBF1E.jpeg
    1.2 MB · Views: 0
  • C26E82A1-4B5F-43B4-AB1A-303AE96F0C83.jpeg
    C26E82A1-4B5F-43B4-AB1A-303AE96F0C83.jpeg
    1.9 MB · Views: 0
I would rather find the source of the low voltage than install an UPS.
As long as this reboot didn't always occur, something has deteriorated and/or changed and I would loose sleep not knowing what it is since it may get worse.
I agree with Skunkboat about the batteries also but voltage tests should prove if that is the cause.
amamola said:
So I tried to take mine apart this morning to figure out if I should get the 5/16 or 1/4 version but could unscrew the the terminals to figure out...

Any recommendations on what I can use to loosen the screw? I cut out all of the solvent that was used to cover the terminal but still no luck.

Also, any idea if this version is 1/4 or 5/16? At this point it looks like I should just replace those cables as well.
Click to expand...
Two ways that may work. Grab the screw head sideways with a vice grip with sharp teeth on the jaws. That usually works.
If not ,grind the screw heads off with a dremel type tool and abrasive wheel. A grinder with an abrasive wheel may work also if you can get it in there
 
amamola said:
So I tried to take mine apart this morning to figure out if I should get the 5/16 or 1/4 version but could unscrew the the terminals to figure out...

Any recommendations on what I can use to loosen the screw? I cut out all of the solvent that was used to cover the terminal but still no luck.

Also, any idea if this version is 1/4 or 5/16? At this point it looks like I should just replace those cables as well.
Click to expand...

I just replaced the switch today. Took about an hour or two to get the screws out. Ended up just drilling them out. I bought the 187 and 285....Neither was the right size but I used the 1/4in one and made the hole on my terminals just a little bigger to fit.

Haven’t tested to see if this solves my voltage drop issue. Starter battery helped but think it’s just addressing the symptom do we shall see with this new breaker. I plan to test next week and test my battery switch as well.

One thing I was not expecting: I installed with the breaker popped. Obviously no electric to the helm except for the key. I thought I could not start the engine if the circuit was popped. Does that mean there is another cable running from the battery switch to the key and then the engine? Not following how it’s wired.
 
amamola said:
I just replaced the switch today. Took about an hour or two to get the screws out. Ended up just drilling them out. I bought the 187 and 285....Neither was the right size but I used the 1/4in one and made the hole on my terminals just a little bigger to fit.

Haven’t tested to see if this solves my voltage drop issue. Starter battery helped but think it’s just addressing the symptom do we shall see with this new breaker. I plan to test next week and test my battery switch as well.

One thing I was not expecting: I installed with the breaker popped. Obviously no electric to the helm except for the key. I thought I could not start the engine if the circuit was popped. Does that mean there is another cable running from the battery switch to the key and then the engine? Not following how it’s wired.
Click to expand...
That breaker is for the House circuit only. Motors have a fuse in the motor (outboards get away with not having circiut protection near battery.)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.