Relocating Aft Bilge Pump 2001 248 Voyager

[Sound Retreat]

I need to replace the non-functioning float switch (currently a Sure Bail) attached to my aft bilge pump ( an Attwood Heavy Duty 1700 GPH). The pump runs fine when the cockpit switch is on, I can see where the wiring on the float switch has corroded through the wire. I have verified the in-line fuses for the float switches are OK. Both the pump and the float switch are mounted to the mounting flat Grady built in the boat, with the float farthest aft behind the pump. The pump and the now-failed float switch are located past the battery shelf which also has a wiring bundle/harness attached to the top of the shelf. It will by a major PITA to access.

I am not the agile and flexible person I once was, and am thinking about relocating both the pump and a new float switch (a standard Rule-a-Matic 35A) - or at a minimum at least the new float switch - farther forward, probably just under the battery shelf to make both testing the float switch and servicing or replacing the pump when the time comes. I am thinking I will take a piece of starboard and 5200 it into the bilge so I am not tapping screws for the new placement into the gelcoat of the hull.

Any thoughts, experience, cautions, or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[Sound Retreat]

I need to replace the non-functioning float switch (currently a Sure Bail) attached to my aft bilge pump ( an Attwood Heavy Duty 1700 GPH). The pump runs fine when the cockpit switch is on, I can see where the wiring on the float switch has corroded through the wire. I have verified the in-line fuses for the float switches are OK. Both the pump and the float switch are mounted to the mounting flat Grady built in the boat, with the float farthest aft behind the pump. The pump and the now-failed float switch are located past the battery shelf which also has a wiring bundle/harness attached to the top of the shelf. It will by a major PITA to access.

I am not the agile and flexible person I once was, and am thinking about relocating both the pump and a new float switch (a standard Rule-a-Matic 35A) - or at a minimum at least the new float switch - farther forward, probably just under the battery shelf to make both testing the float switch and servicing or replacing the pump when the time comes. I am thinking I will take a piece of starboard and 5200 it into the bilge so I am not tapping screws for the new placement into the gelcoat of the hull.

Any thoughts, experience, cautions, or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

After thinking through this a bit more, I plan to use a piece of G10 Fiberglass board and probably 3M 4200 to attach it to the bilge floor. Don't think the 4200/5200 adheres to HDPE Starboard.

Again, I appreciate any advice or warnings.

John

 

[DennisG01]

So, obviously, the reason the pump/switch is located so far aft is to evacuate as much water as possible. Moving it forward will diminish that a bit - but probably not all that much depending on how far forward you go. As long as you're OK with that, then no problem.

Can you install an access plate somewhere to make things easier? Go as large as you feasibly need to.

You can get 5200/4200 to stick better if you first flame treat the HDPE (Google that).

Simple PVC board from HD would work, too.

 

[Sound Retreat]

So, obviously, the reason the pump/switch is located so far aft is to evacuate as much water as possible. Moving it forward will diminish that a bit - but probably not all that much depending on how far forward you go. As long as you're OK with that, then no problem.

Can you install an access plate somewhere to make things easier? Go as large as you feasibly need to.

You can get 5200/4200 to stick better if you first flame treat the HDPE (Google that).

Simple PVC board from HD would work, too.

Thanks Dennis.

I will only be moving the pump about 12" forward. As the boat sits at rest that area is actually slightly lower than all the way back at the garboard plug. So I'm not worried about any appreciable decrease in the amount of bilgewater the pump can remove once it's moved.

I really prefer not to cut another access hole. There are already two pie plates in the transom well - original from Grady. To access the bilge pump would require cutting into the narrow deck behind the rear seat and in from of the transom well. In the long run I think I would rather just relocate the pump and float switch.

I agree with the PVC board and think I will go that route, but perhaps encase in fiberglass mat. The PVC board is more affordable at the 1/2" thickness I want. And wrapping in fiberglass ensures I can get a good bond with 4200.

 

[DennisG01]

I was going to mention an overlay of glass, but truthfully, this would be overkill for this project. PVC accepts glue well - so the 4200 will be MORE than enough to keep glued down. Prep the bilge floor well, though - chemical clean and physical (sandpaper).