Recent content by DennisG01

I was going to mention an overlay of glass, but truthfully, this would be overkill for this project. PVC accepts glue well - so the 4200 will be MORE than enough to keep glued down. Prep the bilge floor well, though - chemical clean and physical (sandpaper).

So, obviously, the reason the pump/switch is located so far aft is to evacuate as much water as possible. Moving it forward will diminish that a bit - but probably not all that much depending on how far forward you go. As long as you're OK with that, then no problem. Can you install an access...

Wall thickness of the metal tubing can vary - which of course affects the ID. Your boat might have the ticker wall thickness? Taco Metals is a big supplier for tubing - I'm not sure if they have fittings, though.

Fair enough :)

In comparison, a screw in plate has more integrity - especially as pop-ins get older. But as far as which one keeps water out better - there's really no difference if they're maintained.

Minor point, but you don't need a washer when using something like 1/4" plate - and especially 3/8" plate. The plate IS the washer. And a C-channel (or L-channel) is another washer since it sits on the plate. Sketch... Ah, OK - I see what you're talking about, now. The "top" and "bottom"...

Oh my, those are 1/2" bolts? Holy overkill, Batman :) 1/4" is more than enough. But going bigger is never bad, either. Actually, the reason I mentioned C-channel (as opposed to box tubing) is because you can access the bolt head - meaning, you only need the bolt going through the lower...

Skunk, I saw your link to this post from that other post and your comment about plate flexing intrigued me. Here's a thought to ponder... instead of adding another plate, use two C-channel pieces of stock Al (say 1-1/2" tall). These will provide much rigidity than plate. They could be...

Oh, I didn't realize this wasn't in the bilge. If the area is not connected in any way to the bilge where gas fumes could then exist, disregard some of my comments. I think you're fine with the 15amp - that's close enough as makes no difference. Besides, that's better than going to 10amp...

Yes, that should work. Just make sure your connections are tight and won't vibrate around over time. The main goal is here is to NOT make a spark in a gas bilge :cool: Minor point... but you'll likely void any warranty by cutting the plug off. Is the charger you've decided on rated IP and...

If the Al was only corroding in areas that you can easily access, you could do the repair in those spots. But looking at your pictures, there's a siginifcant chance that there's more corrosion between the engine mounting bracket and pod. And, of course, the question is... how bad is it? On a...

No! Don't do that. An outlet, of any kind, should never be installed in a bilge of a gasoline powered boat. Any connections down there must be hardwired. Bad, bad, bad idea :) And, make sure the charger is properly rated as ignition protected, as well.

You're right - the Boothbay water area is a great area to boat around in - especially with the barrier islands. I'm just up around the corner from you in Friendship.

Maybe you want to consider adding a dodger?

Only hot water comes out of the heater - no cold water goes through the heater and then to the stbd side. Cold water lines will split before the heater. Cap or connect the c/h lines... doesn't matter, both ways will work. Do you have an OB or an I/O? There may be an extra step if I/O.