Recent content by TVillani

I didn't mess with the controls at all, replaced everything as it was before. I'm fairly confident that there needs to be adjustments made at the motor. Thanks for the advice!

Yes, I'm not revving as high in reverse as I did before the swap.

Got the new cables in fairly easily and determined that after some cleaning and lubrication, the old controls are functioning just fine. I am, however, having some adjustment issues. I'm not getting much power in reverse.

So I replaced the throttle and shift cables this weekend and the project went pretty smooth. Unfortunately, I ran out of time to test her out on the water until today. She seems to shift well and the forward throttle is operating as it should, however I find that I am getting very little...

Thank you! I'll take all that into consideration The old one is 30 years old and has definitely seen better days. I could probably get away with a couple more years but the cables have to be changed so i figured while I have the controls out, I'd swap them out too.

It's time to replace the cables and controls. Anyone have any tricks or tips on replacing the yamaha 704 dual controls? I've searched the interweb and can't find any videos. From what I can see, it looks pretty straightforward but I'd like to know if there are any common snags anyone else has...

Wow, that was quick….sold

I have (2) 30’ rolls of 2 1/8” and (2) 30’ rolls of 3/8” blue striping. $75 shipped. Pics aren’t loading but are available upon request.

I got a full set of stripes and decals from etsy for around $100. Very good quality and an exact match. +1 on the 3m wheel, they work great.

You’ll be fine. Just don’t cross-thread. Screw them in nice and slow. If you cross-thread ss to aluminum it’ll be a pin to back the screw out. You can get ss rivnuts though.

I just replaced my switch panels and the holes didn't line up, I filled the existing holes with epoxy, sanded and redrilled to the proper measurements. Then i used rivnuts. Be careful if you go this route though, it doesn't take a ton of pressure on the tool to over-expand the nut and crack...

The Profish 700 is horizontal and calls for at least 12" of fall in the anchor locker which I have if I mount it to the rear of the pulpit. I would rather not mount it over the hatch.

A deck mounted cleat with a backing plate will be sufficient for the anchor?

This is my first Grady and first "Bigger" boat (250 Dolphin). I'm installing a Lewmar Profish 700 windlass and the bow lifting eye is directly in the spot where I plan to mount the windlass. I trailer the boat to the slip where it lives all season then trailer it back to where she'll live for...

I recently got a crazy deal on a lewmar profish package that included a bow roller and a stainless delta anchor. My issue is the now roller is 3 1/8” wide and the channel in the bow spirit looks to be about 1 3/4” wide. Any suggestions on how to retrofit the new one onto my bow spirit without...