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I have a Simrad on mine, I've only used it once for a long run. I mostly troll and for that I wouldn't give it up for anything.

On my 96 GS I was able to mount a NAC2 AP computer under the dash on the Panel directly behind the steering pump. Kept connections nice and short, and isn't visible unless you're looking for it.

Looks good, who makes that chrome deck light?

I have some Lee's Clamp-on rod holders that are on the side pipes of the hardtop, they work well and look good.

I'm not sure about transducer location on your boat, but for what it's worth the airmar thru-hulls are supposed to be able to support quite a bit of weight. With that said I don't think I'd want mine resting on a roller long term...

Ky Grady, did you get those drains here? If so did you use the recommended replacement elbows as well? I need to replace mine but it will probably be next season... Lookin Good!

If your boat has hydraulic steering the Simrad VRF medium would be a good choice, I like mine and you already have the MFD for full functionality.

The link I shared has a suggested elbow fitting to use, there is also one that has a small SS screen insert

Interesting, in following the link and looking at their other offerings, the 5-spoke SS drain similar to what Grady is using now is available here as well.

You could consider having someone drill the ends of the handles and add rods that ended under the seat access, I've seen that on models with a deeper bilge...

On the old roller trailer I was about 13'1" including radar dome, the new bunk trailer sits a bit shorter but I haven't actually measured it. I went with 6K torsion axles on a trailer from Owens & Son. If you don't leave MI the annual permit is $90, with $30 each for truck, trailer, and boat.

I fish Lakes MI & Erie, and also went from an Islander to a Gulfstream. Had the same concerns as you regarding trailering the larger craft. I had to switch trailers as the one that came with the boat was undersized, but after that the rig pulls great. No extra hassle than trailering any boat...

Depends on which lines are leaking. The supply lines to the motors shouldn't be too hard once you remove the deck panel. The fill lines will be a bit tougher because of where they are routed. Good Luck!

Need some myself, thanks for the link!

Check out old brochures here, should have all that info. http://www.gradywhite.com/archived-brochures/

Yep, check the female side of the connector. The Garmin I have goes out once or twice a trip, I think just a poor design. If you look close at the terminal it's a clamshell and it just spreads out over time I guess. Good luck!

Made the trip to Lake MI and back the other day, all I can say is this thing tows like a dream now. Money well spent!

Thanks for the great thread! Never heard of Stay Afloat before.

Well the boat is finally on a new trailer! I ended up going with Owens and Sons and was able to have it towed up by a local marina that put a smaller brand new Grady on it for the trip. Took a bit to figure out the winch and bow stop position, but it really does fit like a glove. Still need to...

I'm not really sure what the function of the rubber is, and it is in addition to the caulk in the gap. Maybe to help seal the screw hole, or keep the surfaces from rubbing? I hadn't considered rotating the plate itself and re-drilling. I don't think I'll have to pull the large panels to through...