Search results

I did fuel testing with a T-22 and 225 four stroke. Without a doubt, motor trim had the greatest affect on GPH and added a couple of couple hundred RPM, a couple of knots, reduced fuel flow. Tabs has a negligible affect because no tab was required planing, and precious little for ride control...

Seems as if the boat/motor are preforming as advertised. What the OP wants to do is make it do something else. I'm thinking the net affect of moving the batteries will not justify what is required to to move 'em. Try smoothly increasing power as high as required, then smoothly backing it off...

Make steering wheel R&R part of your maintenance every couple of years. As with the steering cylinder brackets, you will thank yourself should you ever again need to do it for cause ... :wink:

The broken piece is, indeed a bezel. Probably there because a Hynautics steering was replaced by a Teleflex. It's part of a kit, HA 5418. Might be available separate, but Teleflex would have to make that call ... :wink:

:uhm What manner of 'tenders'? Some are fine, some will cook your stuff ...

I can't see buying the more expensive brake assemblys if the warranty is going to be the same. I thought the same thing. Truth is, I first bought the cheaper warranty product and used the warranty, then bought the high dollar stuff and never needed the warranty. Nothing will last forever in...

would LOVE to know what Grady has to say about this. Something like 'take it to your nearest dealer' ... :hmm

:uhm Call Grady CS and inquire of the vender for access plates in '97, then proceed accordingly ...

And if he loses a generator on one of those two-strokes? Or one of the start batteries goes south? The only thing more useless than space a bigger battery could have fit into would be fuel still at the marina. At least where and how I boat, just sayin ... :?

:uhm The largest amp-hour battery that will fit. Never heard anyone complain of 'too much' battery ...

I gave her a new car, had to do something to offset the newer boat that may come in January ... :hmm

Bob, check with the shop and do it right. A mooring cover needs to be well fit, taught, and properly supported. Somehow, I don't see you laying a 2x4 across your windshield and stern, your boat is too pretty ... :wink:

Look at the 'cav' plates when on solid plane. They should be ever so slightly above the surface of the water flow but still wet from splash, adjust height accordingly ...

I'd pull the connectors and wipe 'em with Corrosion X, or whatever your choice ... :wink:

Guys wants 5k but said going lower is no problem. With soft spots on both sides of the console? And he's telling you up front 'no problem going lower'? Stop what you're doing and quickly step away ... :hmm

:uhm Accessory fuse block, wired from the main electric panel. I have a plug outlet and a depth finder wired from mine ...

should I consider putting a bigger fuel line and bulb on ? is the gas vent above my swim platform? I wouldn't, my 225 Honda has a 3/8ths. The fuel vent, if not integral with the fuel fill, will most likely be on the hull below the fuel fill and just below the rub rail. It's a pressure equalizer...

What I try to do is keep the prop shaft parallel to the water surface and use the tabs to trim the bow down. :uhm How do you know when you're 'parallel? As measured by flow meter, the best flow for me occurs when I first trim the motor for optimum RPM under present conditions, then tweak...

Check the filter downstream of the remote tank, you may be getting a 'flow' alarm instead of quantity. You may be getting sufficient flow to keep the sensor passive at lower rpms, but not when you push it up ... :wink:

Are you getting water in the bracket or any evidence around the bolt holes on the inside? If not, I wouldn't try to 'fix' it ... :wink: