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You've got air in your steering system. Bleeding will temporarily solve the problem, but the question you need to ask is why is their air in there? Go to The Hull Truth and ask Seastar Steering this question. He will help..he is the company rep. My guess is your helm seal is allowing air in...

Depends alot on budget, what kind of boat you have and what kind of fishing you want to do. I fish salmon, halibut, shrimp and crab in the San Juan Islands/straits, and occasionally go offshore, but rarely need to see anything deeper than 700 feet.....I have a 600 watt transom mount and it...

No problem...now I see what you're saying. For what its worth, I think you will be much happier with a newer standalone GPS. The Furuno plotter you have is older hardware and software, and will be really slow compared to what you and your buddies are used to. If you buy the right unit, you...

Not sure I understand the question....compatible with what? Your transducer and GPS antenna? I looked up the GP1610 and see it has a built in 300 watt sounder....your transducer is most likely an airmar with a furuno 10-pin connector...which should work with any furuno product....the trick...

I fish, no diving. Most of my fishing is within local waters (in the islands) and no more than 30 miles from home base. I misquoted my prop - its a Yamaha SWS I, 15 1/2 x 17M. I bought the boat last year used, and it had a michigan wheel apollo 4 blade on it, 14 5/8 x 16. WAY underpropped...

How are you propped with that OX66? I've got the same boat as you, sans hardtop and find the OX66 is great, even loaded down. I had a 4 blade on it, but it was underpropped. Went back closer to stock with a SWS 15 x 17 3 blade and it brought my rpms down to decent range and speed up (cruise...

I have a 1997 voyager. I bought a new after curtain from them. Great company to work with and their prices are WAY cheaper than custom. With custom, you'll get a better and tighter fit, less leaks, but all in all, I am pretty darn happy with the stuff I got from Great Lakes. In fact, I'm...

Hey 248 Voyager - I just sent you a PM re: your bimini. Pete

Great post. I have a '97 voyager as well with a 250 OX66. What prop do you have on your boat? I've got a 4 blade and don't like the fuel economy....my RPMs are way too high at cruise (4700-4900)..... Thanks, Pete

I think its the spring, as long as the teeth are not worn down. That spring holds the locking mechanism in place, unless there is constant pressure between the seat teeth and the lever. When youre' bouncing, pressure is lost on the teeth-to-lever contadt and that spring is the only thing...

I need help finding the filter......and also figuring out how to access it. I have a voyager 248 and the pump is deep in the bilge....very hard to reach..... Any tips are appreciated!

I've got a 1997 248 with a radar arch w/ rocket launchers - holds six rods plus outriggers, and my radar, VHF, GPS, anchor light and spreader light. Vista top fits right under it. Its mounted to the topsides, right near the "248" logo.

I've got a suzuki 9.9 High Thrust on my 248 voyager and it pushes it at 3 kts at half throttle easily (little wind, no current). Full throttle may get me up to 5 kts..... I think its enough to keep you off the rocks and/or keep your bow into the sea....and even make decent headway in...

Do you mean the "slider" function of going forward and back or the busing on the post that allows it to rotate 180 (or more) degrees? Either way, call your local grady dealer. I did research on this forum and online for awhile to find the "slider bushings" for my 1997 voyager...which were...

I'd do a bit more research than just seeing if its a 7 pin. I talked with Raymarine and Airmar product support on this, as I had a 10 pin airmar thru-hull ducer for a furuno sounder....and am upgrading to Ray Cwide. Straight from Airmar: a 7 pin ducer made for Garmin or another brand will...

I have the same issue on my boat...'97 Voyager - curious what the answer is....

My seats are the upgraded grady version-- and there are nylon bushings that are in the slides....L shaped pieces that run the length of the bracket... Can Grady order me these? Mine are cracked and sliding the seat is hard to do...and noisy.... BTW - not meaning to hijack this thread.....

Well, the aft bilge pump thru-hull was above the waterline about 18"...but where it was located, the glass structure below started to thicken as it is in the transom area. (Very impressed with the amount of glass and reinforcement in my transom-- including the steel plate!!!) We ground it...

So, I there are a ton of posts on this subject here, which have all really helped me out...however, I encountered a problem today in replacing two of my thru-hulls that I hadn't seen a post about....so i wanted to post my experience and see also, if anyone has the same..... Today I replaced...

Richie Rich - did that already. My manual from Grady says it should have two bilge switches-- one forward one aft. The previous onwer screwed with the wiring, so I'm not surprised it isn't right, but the weird thing is, there is no marked switch for a forward bilge pump...only an aft bilge...