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I brought my old one from my 285 Freedom to a local Napa store. $12 later, I had a new matching blade.

Anyone?

Has anyone converted the head on a Freedom 285 to a single berth like in the larger Freedoms. I am looking for a stop gap short term berth that goes over the head as in the slightly larger versions. Thanks.

Unfortunately, I did try to pull it out from the front and the wires on the back did pull out. Now, I do not know where they connect back to the rocker switch. I recall that there are two wires that pulled out, one still attached, and I believe a vacant blade. ANY help in telling me how to...

They are rocker switches.

I want to a CCTV camera and use one of my unused accessory switches to be able to power it on an off. Can I pull the switch from the front(rather than the underside) to be able to access the terminals on the back of the switch? If so, how do I yank it out from the front? Thanks.

The problem seems to be resolved. I disconnected the power harness. That seems to have rebooted the head unit so I got sound. But, in doing so, I must have disturbed some of the wires. So, I bypassed the power harness and hard wired all the power connections. All good at least for the moment.

I have a UD 755 Fusion stereo on my Grady Freedom 285. I am getting no sound at all after about 30 seconds no matter which source I select. I cannot tell whether it is the head unit or the amp. Since the amp is buried, I am hoping someone has a good idea to fix this. I will try to yank out the...

All fixed. A little dishwashing liquid, a bumpy ride and now the display reads perfectly. The cheapest fix ever.

Called Xylem. They say no way to troubleshoot. Could be the control box (about $300) or perhaps the display panel (about $225). I would have to lift the entire floor area to replace the control box. No really good options. I may just break the hot wire to the panel and install a toggle switch to...

Turns out I can reach the top of the tank to unscrew the evacuation port. I have confirmed the tank is empty but the display is still flashing full. It is the Jabsco MSDIII unit. I cannot see any top mounted level sensor. Since I can get into the evacuation port (just barely) is there something...

No joy. I cannot really reach the tank. And, the only way to get the flashing to stop is to shut off the main battery switches. I can't believe there is no breaker for the head. What am I missing?

I have a small holding tank on my Grady Freedom 285. The level display on the macerator panel (Jabsco) constantly flashes full when I know the holding tank is empty. Is there a way to recalibrate the sensor or, if necessary, replace the sensor? Thanks.

Leaving a restaurant on the water in Connecticut with our 43 Hatteras Open. Saw a guy waiving his arms about a mile away in the Sound. Hooked him up and towed him in. Turned out it was Charles Barthold, editor of Yachting magazine. Who knew?

Mine does not. I am not sure about the skinny on inverters.

I have the same boat. I too added shore power.It is really just used to connect to my battery charger. I added the outlet under the gunnel on the port side as far aft as possible. I added the battery charger in the bilge area on the starboard aft side. It all works out quite well.

I went in through the top. Once the top rubber boot was destroyed, we were able to grab the heads on the four studs. With enough upward pressure, we were able to remove each stud while the nylon on the undersigned stayed pinned. So, we got all four studs out. Then, because the Mente Marine...

The silicone solution sounds like a good idea. I just got off the telephone with Grady White. They seem to think the doghouse panel may be the best option or perhaps removing the drawer cabinet. I will report back late next week after all is done.

Thought about destroying the switch but I will need to get to the underside to secure the Mente Marine switch so that option is out as well. It sounds like I am doing a lot of complaining but in over 40 years of boating (admittedly on larger boats) I have never been stumped like this on access...

Removing the MFD does create a big hole but you would have to be a monkey to work upside down with your arm at a right angle and then reach 3 feet to try to get to the switch. Also, the cubby on the wall creates the same 90 degree bend required assuming you could even reach all the way to the...