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As someone said be sure to check the block at the thermostat housing. The copper tstat touches the aluminum block and the block corrodes. I posted my horror story before- the corrosion was so bad it went through the block and squirted salt water into the air intake. The result- a new...

I always run the port engine only with the port battery using the battery switch. Same for the stbd engine/battery. The house battery is charged using a Cole-Hersee smart isolator/charger with its own switch. Works great- the batteries are always fully charged.

Not 100% certain it was the original but it looks like the pics in the literature and is all stainless. The Bosch wiper has a narrow groove width compared to the other blades I checked out.

FYI - after searching for a suitable replacement wiper (just the rubber wiper, not the whole blade assembly), I found the Bosch Microedge 18" blade fits perfectly. They only sell the whole frame and wiper so you have to remove the wiper from the frame, which is easy. The wiper snaps into the...

I've had good success with a decal eraser wheel. Works like a pencil eraser and shreds the old decal and removes the adhesive as well. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00488DDB8/re ... TY6CQ7JHQ5

I have a 2004 w/ F225s and see essentially the same performance as Foul Hooked- as long as the motors are trimmed up even a little. With the bow down, the fuel economy drops quite a bit. Also, my Yamaha fuel management gauge is off 18-20% (reads higher GPH and consumption than actual- both...

My '04 has a group 27 starting battery and group 27 house batt starboard - both wet batteries. Both run fore/aft. I installed an Optima blue AGM group 31 (dual purpose ) portside to try it out. A bit of a tight squeeze to get it in but with an AGM you can turn it on its side without a problem...

Great idea on using grease. I'm trying it and launching tomorrow. Fingers crossed!

Ambitious project! I agree with you about Cataumet Marine- they are very helpful and well-stocked. I'm in Falmouth near Bosuns and I usually wind up going to Cataumet since they have the parts I need. Did you have any issues getting out the pins that secure the top & bottom of the tilt...

I pulled the tstats on my stbd 2004 F225 today to see how the aluminum loaded epoxy held over the 2015 season, about 100 hrs. While the epoxy held in the corroded divot I had last year at about the 8 o'clock position, the other epoxy applied to the block flaked off when I scraped it. The epoxy...

Thanks for the link. Coincidentally, I did apply the aluminum loaded epoxy to the corroded areas on the thermostat housing last spring (after cleaning the aluminum block extremely well) and I'll report on how it's holding out after the winter. I also put it on the thermostat to isolate it from...

If you have an F225 engine pre-2005, be aware that the tstat (copper) will corrode the block (aluminum) where the tstat sits. When it corrodes through, salt water is sprayed into the air intake and will trash the engine. How do I know? - my stbd engine now has a new powerhead. My port engine...

Defender is selling Pompanette seats with the Grady logo for $350! Note the extra shipping charge. Maybe someone on the forum is in the market... http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... id=3019271

I've tried a number of polishes on a 13 ft Whaler I'm restoring plus on my Grady 265. (BTW the gelcoat on the Grady is far superior to the Whaler). I found the best result when using Buff Magic is to use a buff ball in a drill, not a buffing machine. The gunnels on the 265 look like new after...

I just did this on an old 13 ft whaler I bought. I used a rubber wheel on a drill- it removed the #s completely and in about 20 min. Here's what I used: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00488 ... ailpages00 It's an amazing tool for removing stickers, decals, etc.

forgot to post this

Something else to look for when you're doing the winter work. Yamaha, with their great materials engineering capabilities, has the copper tstat in contact with the aluminum block. In salt water, that means the block loses and gets corroded away. In my case, the hole squirted salt water into...

I tried a test on the bow section after a long day on choppy seas where I sprayed SA on half and water on the other half. Let it dry, no scrubbing. No residue on the SA side, lots of dried salt on the other side. Pretty dramatic. BTW SA is a surfactant, not an acid, based on its MSDS...

I have an '04 265 which has slightly less deadrise then yours but the bilge areas look the same. I put a shoot thru at the location of your port "red dot" and it worked fine to about 30 mph. I upgraded the tducer to a B60 thru hull further aft and it works perfectly to 40 mph+. I'm not near...

I'm with Robert 100%- the conversion works great and will save $$. Very reliable set up