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On the Starboard side, you need to cut an access port in the wing and the bigger the better. You'll have barely enough room to reach down and access the thru-hull fittings and you'll probably lose some more blood. As much as it pains you, go with a BIG hole as it will give more room to bend...

I never got around to that project and have now sold that boat. Good luck, mine looked like yours.

We made up something similar, just cup holders for wine/cheese cruises but no reason you couldn't also add some rod holders. Was a stock round piece of lumber from HD, maybe 18" in diameter and we cut 4 cup holders into it and sealed with poly. Used the same base as the rocket launcher and...

I added a removable 5 rod rocket launcher on the transom of mine - can see the rods in the 2nd pic. Just needed to remember to take it off before lifting the engines. Got the rod holder from PalmettoTrooper on THT with the V slots.

My cockpit bolsters (2003 330) had both SS tabs and the screws through the grommets. After I had the bolsters re-done, I didn't replace the screws and found them easier to remove/clean with the tabs.

Following - great question i've been pondering.

I had one on my 2003 330 and had a love/hate relationship with it. Really liked having the extra rod holders but hated how much room it took up at times. A lot depended on how many people I had on the trip, more than 3 and I think it was a pain. Was nice to have the option and it came on/off...

I mounted the GT-51TM right on the centerline of my 330 and it worked great at all speeds in moderate depths (<800'). There were no obstructions on the bottom of the hull forward. The original Furuno P60 in this pic was replaced with a 1k (B265 ?) that also worked great at all speeds. BTW...

Sounds like the tank sender to me, but as suggested, easy enough to test it. Testing is a whole lot easier if removed, but access back there is a PITA.

Assume these are for deep dropping, why the 15* versus 0*? I’m planning on adding deep drop rod holders to the transom of my next boat and had been thinking 0* all the way for use with bent butts.

I think the $1k number is for the whole unit, should be able to buy a pump only for a few hundred less and a much easier install.

Check all the nuts/bolts holding the tubes, you may find some movement that caused those cracks.

I had new 300 zukes on my 330 and she was a whole different boat than with the F225's. I can only imagine that on a 282, you'd be in Beast Mode!

I just did this project, there's a thread on this site. The replacement trim should have it's own adhesive backing, right? I peeled away the rest of the trim, used a razor blade/acetone to remove old glue and residue. Clean with isopropyl alcohol before application. Apply slowly with a lot...

Pic of the vent outside?

Deep V hulls are very sensitive to weight distribution. When running, if anyone is moving around on the boat, I need to adjust tabs to keep her level.

For clarity there are other options beyond the XB8000 - it just happens to do everything in a single box and I wanted an AIS transmitter. I only know the iNavX SW so the options below assume you're running that with Navionics charts. The low cost option to turn your iPad into a plotter is an...

First, you’ll need a Vesper XB8000 (they may have newer models) -about $750 plus an antenna. Check out this video on the iPad setup. IM if you have specific questions.

Couple of months later and they're both still working great.

Yeah, but....you'd need the AIS transceiver or some similar device. My WiFi only iPad has a few uses: First is a third MFD. I have the iNavX software app with Navionics charts. The iPad connects to a Vesper XB8000 AIS transceiver via WIFI and receives lat/lon as well as AIS target information...